please look: datalog

NYXphil13

Member
So I recently installed the pg fmic kit, and something doesnt feel right. It feels like i got very minimal gains, if anything at all. Alot of the tables in the datalog mean nothing to me, so I was wondering if you guys would be able to make sense of it and see if anything looks out of the ordinary. One datalog is jst a cruise and i believe the other one is a second gear pull. The mods I have are cobb intake, full corksport catless tbe and the pg fmic. Im running the stage 2+sf 93 v107 fmic. thanks in advance for the help guys.

datalogcruise.jpg


datalog1.jpg
 
Well not to scare you but you need to upgrade your fuel pump as soon as possible. Your fuel psi numbers are realllly low in 2nd datalog. Luckily looks like your ECU is still managing to keep AFR at a good spot, and not enough knock to be concerned with. But I personally would avoid full out wot driving until you get it taken care of. Good luck
 
Well not to scare you but you need to upgrade your fuel pump as soon as possible. Your fuel psi numbers are realllly low in 2nd datalog. Luckily looks like your ECU is still managing to keep AFR at a good spot, and not enough knock to be concerned with. But I personally would avoid full out wot driving until you get it taken care of. Good luck

Yup going to have agree with that. 900 is really low for 19-20psi.
 
grrrr...had a bad feeling that needed to be done. sometimes in a 3rd or 4th gear pull ill notice a little hesitation near redline. I wish i could just buy a 100$ walbro like my budies, but looks like im going to have to spend close to 350 for some internals :mad: is it really that dangerous to run my car wot with this problem?
 
Yes, it is. As soon as your car goes out of closed loop you can be in serious trouble. You NEED at least 1600 to be safe.

You shouldn't expect power gains from a FMIC. It's there to help you maintain the power you have over a wider temperature range.
 
alright, looks like im going to have to chill on the gas pedal until i can spring for some ptp internals.

good idea, play it safe. For the time being, you could try downgrading to the Stage 1 FMIC 91 octane map. Not exactly a match for your mods, but with lower boost targets, it might actually bring your psi numbers back into a safe range. For me, the only time I see my fuel psi drop below 1600 is when I spike to about 20 or 21.
 
Yes, your fuel pressure really sucks. It should be about 425 at IDLE and 1,600+ at WOT. My PTP pump holds 1,700-2,000psi at WOT. You're dipping down into the 700's at WOT. Not good. Your AFR's are all over the place, but I think that's because the log you did has you shifting 3 times. When you log, start in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear at about 2,500 RPM and go to 6,500 in one gear. Obviously you'll need a lot of road and a radar detector if you're going to do this in 4th and 5th because you'll be up over 100 mph. Your AFR's should hold rock solid at whatever you have set in your WOT table. If they're off, your MAF needs to be calibrated. If the ECU hears some knock, it'll add alittle fuel and you'll see your AFR's go down .3-.5. I target 11.7:1 at WOT from 2,500-5,500 RPM and then I start adding a little more fuel every 500 RPM by two tenths so that by the time the table reaches 7,000, it's targeting 11.1:1. Of course I never rev it that high and usually shift between 6-6.5k with the stock turbo so the richest I usually see is 11.5-11.3:1 at 6-6.5k RPM. The purpose of richening it up a bit above 5,500 is to lower EGT's for the stock turbo and play it a little safe considering the knock sensor goes deaf above 5,700 or so. I'm running a little more timing advance than stock up there also. Your boost looks a tad too high for stage 2 on the stock turbo also. Should be holding around 18psi and you're up over 19-20psi consistently. It even hits 21psi a few times. A little too high IMO. Also, your boost air temps are pretty darn high for having a FMIC (in the 150-160 range). That is darn high. Did you do this run after sitting around for a while? My BAT's, as long as I've been moving at 30+mph or so with my ETS topmount are usually 25-30 degrees hotter than ambient, so even if it's 100 degrees F outside, I'm in the 125-130 range and maybe up around 140-145 at the very end of a 4th or 5th gear WOT run. People say FMIC's are better, which I don't completely agree with, but I think your BAT's should be lower and it may be because your boost is too high for the stock turbo. Above 18-19 psi, our turbo turns into a flame thrower. You could definitely use a good street tune after you get your new pump. Oh and I also just noticed that your Long Term Fuel Trims are at 3.74 during your WOT runs, which means you need to calibrate your MAF. They should be at or near 0. Usually we see -0.16.
 
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Yes, your fuel pressure really sucks. It should be about 425 at IDLE and 1,600+ at WOT. My PTP pump holds 1,700-2,000psi at WOT. You're dipping down into the 700's at WOT. Not good. Your AFR's are all over the place, but I think that's because the log you did has you shifting 3 times. When you log, start in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear at about 2,500 RPM and go to 6,500 in one gear. Obviously you'll need a lot of road and a radar detector if you're going to do this in 4th and 5th because you'll be up over 100 mph. Your AFR's should hold rock solid at whatever you have set in your WOT table. If they're off, your MAF needs to be calibrated. If the ECU hears some knock, it'll add alittle fuel and you'll see your AFR's go down .3-.5. I target 11.7:1 at WOT from 2,500-5,500 RPM and then I start adding a little more fuel every 500 RPM by two tenths so that by the time the table reaches 7,000, it's targeting 11.1:1. Of course I never rev it that high and usually shift between 6-6.5k with the stock turbo so the richest I usually see is 11.5-11.3:1 at 6-6.5k RPM. The purpose of richening it up a bit above 5,500 is to lower EGT's for the stock turbo and play it a little safe considering the knock sensor goes deaf above 5,700 or so. I'm running a little more timing advance than stock up there also. Your boost looks a tad too high for stage 2 on the stock turbo also. Should be holding around 18psi and you're up over 19-20psi consistently. It even hits 21psi a few times. A little too high IMO. Also, your boost air temps are pretty darn high for having a FMIC (in the 150-160 range). That is darn high. Did you do this run after sitting around for a while? My BAT's, as long as I've been moving at 30+mph or so with my ETS topmount are usually 25-30 degrees hotter than ambient, so even if it's 100 degrees F outside, I'm in the 125-130 range and maybe up around 140-145 at the very end of a 4th or 5th gear WOT run. People say FMIC's are better, which I don't completely agree with, but I think your BAT's should be lower and it may be because your boost is too high for the stock turbo. Above 18-19 psi, our turbo turns into a flame thrower. You could definitely use a good street tune after you get your new pump. Oh and I also just noticed that your Long Term Fuel Trims are at 3.74 during your WOT runs, which means you need to calibrate your MAF. They should be at or near 0. Usually we see -0.16.

-2500rpm is too low ESPECIALLY in 5th gear to start doing a WOT pull. you're putting a lot of load on the engine down in the rpm range which = not the best. start at a minimum of 3000RPM in 3rd or 4th gear. no need for 5th
-dont go to 6500rpm. stock turbo is way out of it's efficiency range even at stock psi at that rpm. shift at 5500rpm or 6k at the most.

-you need a solid 3rd or 4th gear pull to see where you are at.
-boost temps do seem a little high during your short run. i know with my cp-e fmic when i'm in boost i have yet to get my BAT to rise during a WOT run. i get 150-160BAT sitting in traffic all the time. but goes down 20 degrees by the time i pull away from a light and shift to 2nd gear.

edit: and yea you need a HPFP bad
 

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