peep my DH logs

[builthatch]

right click, "save target as"

http://www.iammike.org/htmods/BUILTHATCH_LOGS.zip

These have A/F logged - http://www.iammike.org/htmods/BHLOGS.zip

there are 5 logs in the first zip file. 4 from tonight and one from i think the spring at the race track.

the second zip with a/f logged has 3 logs. one is 1st-2nd-3rd, the second is 1-2 let RPMs really drop then 3, and the last one i think is like some of second, then full 3rd.

mods are cobb intake and test pipe...and hybrid valve.

i took the these to compare to what i'm about to do with my new AP that is sitting here waiting to be used

thanks!

 

[Trader]

could not unzip your files for some reason. They are also showing 0 size??

 

[builthatch]

weird.

the show the files for me when i DL them. the first one is like 48kb total size and the second is 28.

thanks for trying. i'll try to stretch out the time axis and focus on a gear or two and then take a screen shot.

 

[builthatch]

these runs are with stock flash.

the first log shows a 1-2-3 pull. i had to pedal it in first and some in second because of the temps. i was having traction issues in all gears.

the second log shows 1-2-3-4. same story, but 4th had no traction issues and i stayed in it for as long as i could without getting nuts on a back road.

the third log is from...i dunno, the end of the spring/beginning of summer? it's a run at Atco Dragway.

thanks for looking.

the a/f look fine in all of the logs i've done, and the FP seems to be doing it's job. something to note is i've never hit boost cut in this car. i've had it for a year/15k.

 

[Sport6]

yeah i tried to unzip it and had an error as well.

Its hard to read a log with multiple gear changes, try posting some up of a 4th gear pull.

Also I thought the fuel pump was really supposed to dip below 1500psi, the fuel pump but you get some dips (quite a few) of 1000psi. But also thats hard to tell with the gear changes because we cant tell if your foot is all the way on it or not.

 

[builthatch]

Also I thought the fuel pump was really supposed to dip below 1500psi, the fuel pump but you get some dips (quite a few) of 1000psi.

hey, thanks for looking!

however, i don't have any dips like what you mention. are you looking at the purple scale? in those logs, one log shows one time dipping to 1100 and 1300, and then the other one shows 1300, then the rest of the time it's high. but for me, the main thing to worry about is the a/f. my a/f is rock steady during the times when i'm on it. you can tell when i'm on it when manifold pressure is positive and the RPM are climbing.

look for a climbing red line and a peaked then flatish yellow line...that is a gear pull.

also, i just noticed, but the atco run's colors are all out of whack, but you can figure out what is what by looking at the scales. i tried to change the c0lors to match the latest logs, but didn't change the scale colors :X

 

[LukeP]

You've got almost no spark knock ret. What fuel do you use? Seems like its good stuff.

 

[builthatch]

You've got almost no spark knock ret. What fuel do you use? Seems like its good stuff.

thanks for looking man.

i use shell 93 exclusively. this car in the year i've had it has had something other than shell once...which was the regular fuel that the dealer put in despite me telling them not to, hehe. the car i had before this one was high compression the entire time i had it (10 years+), so i had alot of time to figure out which fuels are consistent. the shell for me seems to be the most consistent.

 

[Bravnik]

So how do you like the drive now?

 

[builthatch]

So how do you like the drive now?

oh man, i haven't flashed it yet!!!

i want to but i keep having stuff come up. now my mom calls me and wants to go look at gravestones for my grandmom.

it only took her two years to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so, i guess i'll have to wait until after lunch.

i also want to save the stock map, so that will take some time.

i'm debating which map to try first, the stage2 or stage1

 

[LukeP]

thanks for looking man.

i use shell 93 exclusively. this car in the year i've had it has had something other than shell once...which was the regular fuel that the dealer put in despite me telling them not to, hehe. the car i had before this one was high compression the entire time i had it (10 years+), so i had alot of time to figure out which fuels are consistent. the shell for me seems to be the most consistent.

Ah, good to know. I use shell v-power but unfortunetly the highest octane we get is 91. I put in some octane booster and I swear it made the power smoother and more consistent. I fear that if I started logging, the KR would drive me insane. I'll just put in some booster every 1000 miles or something to keep it under control.

 

[Bravnik]

oh man, i haven't flashed it yet!!!

i want to but i keep having stuff come up. now my mom calls me and wants to go look at gravestones for my grandmom.

it only took her two years to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so, i guess i'll have to wait until after lunch.

i also want to save the stock map, so that will take some time.

i'm debating which map to try first, the stage2 or stage1

If you have a Test Pipe or DP got stage 2. If not go Stage 1 and see if you're over boosting. You should spike like 19-20 dropping immediately down to like 18. If you're boosting higher then go stage 2.

FLASH THAT THING ALREADY (poke)

 

[builthatch]

If you have a Test Pipe or DP got stage 2. If not go Stage 1 and see if you're over boosting. You should spike like 19-20 dropping immediately down to like 18. If you're boosting higher then go stage 2.

FLASH THAT THING ALREADY (poke)

oh, it should hold at 18?

damn! that would be dope....

 

[Sport6]

I was just saying that it might be easier to compare everything if you had a run of one gear. With multiple gear changes a lot of things can change.


But ya definitely log your knock retard with a log before you put on the AP so you know if it has changed.

The other night I got a knock retard of 4.9! I was getting on the high way hard and lost traction in the middle of 3rd and thats when it happened, my other runs i havent had that ever. So I am thinking thats what happened.

 

[Bravnik]

KR is a normal anomaly out of WOT. It happens on all cars. The only time you don't want KR is on WOT runs. Normal driving a Yugo will get KR at times. So unless you see KR at WOT, there is nothing to worry about.

My car Hatch spikes 21 dropping to 19 quickly then tapering off to 16.9ish by 6k.

 

[builthatch]

KR is a normal anomaly out of WOT. It happens on all cars. The only time you don't want KR is on WOT runs. Normal driving a Yugo will get KR at times. So unless you see KR at WOT, there is nothing to worry about.

i've been telling people that for months but noone listened.

my perfectly tuned hondas would show knock in varying degrees. it's just that alot of people on here haven't had experience with being able to see what's going on, that's all.

ok i'll flash this thing later and let you know what's doin'

 

[Sport6]

KR is a normal anomaly out of WOT. It happens on all cars. The only time you don't want KR is on WOT runs. Normal driving a Yugo will get KR at times. So unless you see KR at WOT, there is nothing to worry about.

My car Hatch spikes 21 dropping to 19 quickly then tapering off to 16.9ish by 6k.

it was during WOT that my 4.9 happened

 

[LukeP]

the second log shows 1-2-3-4. same story, but 4th had no traction issues and i stayed in it for as long as i could without getting nuts on a back road.

Builthatch, while I was walking back from work I had an epiphany that will make us all nod. The reason you're getting a tiny amount of spark knock in 1, 2, and slightly into 3 is because of the TMIC not getting enough air. By fourth gear there's enough air moving over it to kill any heatsoak and to reduce induction temps enough to avoid knock.

Seems obvious now.

 

[builthatch]

Builthatch, while I was walking back from work I had an epiphany that will make us all nod. The reason you're getting a tiny amount of spark knock in 1, 2, and slightly into 3 is because of the TMIC not getting enough air. By fourth gear there's enough air moving over it to kill any heatsoak and to reduce induction temps enough to avoid knock.

Seems obvious now.

the only wrench in that works is the temps...ambient air temps were 14 degs...boost temps were something insanely low...40's, possibly lower.

honestly, i think it's just a feature of the tune, like, changes from open/closed loop OR something mechanical that the knock sensor 'hears'.

i flashed the thing tonight and put some miles on it...i put about 40 miles on it with a few key cycles, so it's probably still learning.

thing definitely holds boost higher than stock. it's wild! peep the logs. a/f are a hair leaner than stock. the one log shows a FP dip but i don't care, as long as the a/f is looking lovely. again, it's probably still adjusting.

the first log was out of a toll. the second was at my normal test spot but i could not go that fast.

funny story. so, to put some miles on the flash, i decide to go to my usual gas station. i tell the kid to fill it with 93...

i always check to make sure what they are doing.

i look at the cost per gallon readout, and it's cheap as s***. im like dude, wtf is this?

he hits the button....almost 3 gals of reg went in!

luckily, i was able to get the rest, which is like 9 gallons, in 93. i am leary about putting octane booster in this car. i was warned about that early on by a trusted mazda source, so, i've been keeping an eye on it and it seems fine. my old high compression engines didn't like even half and half, which happened by accident of course.

 

[LukeP]

yikes, you're hitting spikes of 21 holding 18...knock of 2 for some reason towards the end of fourth. No explanation for that one. Looks like the fuel pressure dips slightly when the knock occurs.

...whats wrong with octane booster? I want to use it every so often to make up for the watered down petroleum we get here...