Oh HELL YEAH. Got the soft AWR bushings in!

[t3ase]

Strange. I've always been a "don't go under 45 in 5th" kinda person since I've heard that doing so causes a LOT of undue stress. I dunno, though.

 

[FrigginGLI]

What sort of tools/machines will you need to install these correctly? How do you prevent the engine from falling out when you switch the bushings?

 

[PaulMP3]

I will be ordering a set of these soon... I know what you ment by the higher gear vibration.. I find my self going back into 1st a lot because the rpms would be too low in 2nd and the car will shake like crazy.. Glad you got them in.. Hopefully we get some nice weather soon so i can install them.

 

[Mike R]

What sort of tools/machines will you need to install these correctly? How do you prevent the engine from falling out when you switch the bushings?

Nothing special, the bushings just slide in and out of the the mount. The engine is supported by a jack.

Here's a few threads about the AWR mounts.

1


2.

 

[prospeed]

i got some feed back from awr. he said he just got some feed back from a customer with the 88 duromter softer ones. probably you. looks like i will get the same ones.

 

[Mike R]

Yep must have been me.

 

[Reitrof]

Mike R and Prospeeed,

I had installed both AWR mounts but after a week I had to remove the rear. The vibration was too much. I see that there are 2 softer ones, 88 and 66? Does the lower the number mean the softer the bushing?

Does it make a big difference vibration wise? I do a lot of highway driving and need something just a little stiffer than stock.

Thanks

 

[prospeed]

the lower the softer. he also told me that he could not gauranty on how long the 66 would last due to the softness.

i going to try the 88's

 

[Mike R]

Mine are the 88, I can give updates. I think the 88 will hold up, they seem pretty tough. I doubt the 66 would hold up too well. The hard ones I took out are slightly ovaled though. Not much though and they aren't torn.

 

[Reitrof]

Thanks.

 

[doggman]

the 88 are the automatic mounts then. or.......

 

[Mike R]

The 88's are the automatic mounts and the 95's are the manual.

 

[Mike R]

OK, so update 1.

Fired it up cold this morning. Little more vibration than yesterday. Still much better than the 95's. The steering column rattle is still there, so I'm going to pull the cover off and put some foam tape in there. I'm happy that 95% of the unbearable rattles are gone. The door panel rattles are gone, the resonations are gone.

I'm going to put the 88's in the front mount tonight and see how much more vibration is get's rid of. I'm still impressed with the reduction in vibration so far.

 

[doggman]

so you ^^^^ only had an 88 in the rear and 95's in the front?

 

[PaulMP3]

im gonna order mine tomorrow... im sold. All the rattles you have described i have plus more...

 

[Mike R]

Update 2.

Well, I'm not going to be able to swap the other bushings in tonight. well maybe. Kinda dark out now...
It's still got a good bit of vibration at 1100 rpm, but it's a different feeling than before. Less sharp feeling. I'm hoping that the front bushings will remedy this.


EDIT: I just swapped the front bushings. Now I have more vibration! I think part of it is that the bushings need to break in. The other is that the way the front mount is sitting, since there is adjustment on to planes, is placing more wieght on the rear mount and causing more vibration. I'll know tomorrow when I put some miles on it.

 

[Reitrof]

Mike R

Keep us informed!!

Thanks

 

[girth]

Interesting that putting the front one in too caused more vibration.....

I have another question too --- I have the AWRs sitting right here and I flat out cannot get the bushings out! They will not budge. To me it looks like the bushing is all 1 piece and has a ridge on each end that prevents it from moving at all. But then again my mounts also have a metal ring in the inside - is that normal? I'm confused here....

Also, I emailed Jim Fab and he said he's developing a 70 dur mount because he tried 65s (and 65s are available) but they were too soft and got destroyed too easily. I'm hoping to get the 70 dur ones from him if I can't figure out HTF you got your bushings out of the AWR ones!

 

[PaulMP3]

Interesting that putting the front one in too caused more vibration.....

I have another question too --- I have the AWRs sitting right here and I flat out cannot get the bushings out! They will not budge. To me it looks like the bushing is all 1 piece and has a ridge on each end that prevents it from moving at all. But then again my mounts also have a metal ring in the inside - is that normal? I'm confused here....

this is how i remember them also... I had mine laying around for a whilem and never noticed the bushing came out... never really tried either. Obviously they must... pull harder

 

[Mike R]

Ok, update 3:

Well, the vibrations from last night are gone. Car is even smoother than before. I noticed that I CAN SEE CLEARLY IN MY MIRRORS!!!!! They aren't vibrating at all! The idle-1100rpm vibe is still there, but even less. Above ~1300 the car is as smooth as stock, but still has the more solid feel of the mounts.


Girth, the mounts are supposed to have the metal insert. That is to locate everything properly. To remove the bushings, hammer the insert out first, with a socket or extension. The bushings *should* come out easily after that is removed. Intall will be the reverse, but the bushings in, then the metal insert.