Hi! I have a 2017 CX-9, and I have had nothing but issues with the brakes since I got it not even a year ago. I’ve had it to a Mazda garage twice, and to 3 different other shops to get the brakes to stop screeching and they won’t. I’ve replaced them 4 times. It seems the longer you drive it the LOUDER the screeching gets. Every garage has said the same thing, “everything is brand new, we don’t know why they’re making that noise.” I’m sick of hearing it because there’s absolutely an issue with them. Has anyone had this issue? If so, how can I fix it because I can’t stand the screeching anymore. Thank you!
Obnoxiously loud brakes
- Thread starter Misskissy52
- Start date
What are you replacing? Pad and rotors or just the pads. That noise is not very difficult to stop with application of brake lube to the proper spots on the pistons and the caliper 'ears' and guide pins. If these shops are not performing that basic function when doing the job I hope you can find one that knows what they are doing.
They were lubed each and every time I took it up. I’m just not understanding how 3 different shops can’t get it to stop. The longer I drive it the louder it gets. If a Mazda shop can’t do it right then who can? There’ve worked on it twice. We’ve put so much money into it, it’s ridiculous.
I really don't know what to say then. That noise is caused by vibration between the metal parts or some foreign material stuck between the pads and rotors. The latter would likely show as gouge marks on the rotors.
The only other thing I can think of is 'bedding in the pads' by doing some intermediate speed stops to a crawl then accelerate and do the same again. Repeat that a few times on roads where traffic allows you do do so. Then do a final pretty hard slow down from about 50 or 60 and follow that with a decent run on open roads. The idea is to 'mate' the pads and rotors by transferring material from the pads to the rotors.
If you YouTube that there's plenty of examples out there. It may help but based on your description it's a tough nut to crack.
PS: they are changing the rotors along with the pads at some point? At a certain level the rotors go 'below spec' and need to be replaced.
The only other thing I can think of is 'bedding in the pads' by doing some intermediate speed stops to a crawl then accelerate and do the same again. Repeat that a few times on roads where traffic allows you do do so. Then do a final pretty hard slow down from about 50 or 60 and follow that with a decent run on open roads. The idea is to 'mate' the pads and rotors by transferring material from the pads to the rotors.
If you YouTube that there's plenty of examples out there. It may help but based on your description it's a tough nut to crack.
PS: they are changing the rotors along with the pads at some point? At a certain level the rotors go 'below spec' and need to be replaced.
- :
- Canada
If you're unhappy with the dealer experience, contact the Service Manager and the General Manager at the dealership to figure it out. You paid to correct a problem that hasn't been corrected. I really hope you didn't pay for replacement parts 4 times, they should have replaced the parts the first time, and then troubleshooted and/or replaced parts for subsequent replacements on their dime as part of their workmanship guarantee.
Get dealership management involved, they may need to contact Mazda Corporate for assistance. If at some point you become dissatisfied with the level of service or the lack of resolution to your problem, contact Mazda Corporate directly to open a case.
Do you have a video clip of the noise? And do you have the old parts that they removed to replace? I always ask to at least look at the old parts to make sure replacements are warranted.
Get dealership management involved, they may need to contact Mazda Corporate for assistance. If at some point you become dissatisfied with the level of service or the lack of resolution to your problem, contact Mazda Corporate directly to open a case.
Do you have a video clip of the noise? And do you have the old parts that they removed to replace? I always ask to at least look at the old parts to make sure replacements are warranted.
To add to what sm1ke said, always insist that a description of the problem be written on the repair order, not just the service writer's guess at a fix. If the work did not fix the problem, don't pay. Always pay by check. This gives you a few hours or a day to stop payment on the check if the problem persists. A credit card charge can be disputed, but (a) it must be posted to your account first, (b) there are limited specified reasons to dispute, (c) it goes back to the billing party for review. A stopped check is final. Always discuss a problem billing, in this case an ineffective repair, with the shop or store before disputing.
It's a bit tricky when one doesn't know cars and the service writer says, "we can fix that squeal with a brake job." That usually means that they'll fire up their parts cannon and put every new expensive part they can on that section of your car. You'll get parts you don't need, but you just don't know. And, if the problem is still there at the end...see the next paragraph.
As said by sm1ke above, request an appointment with the manager of the service department, the actual service manager (not just a service writer) to discuss why you should pay for work that did not fix the problem that hopefully was stated on the repair order. The dealership wants satisfied customers. As always, be business-courteous. Check your state's law regarding auto repairs. Some states have regulations regarding repairs that install unneeded parts and repairs that are unnecessary...and work that does not fix the problem is obviously unnecessary.
Dealerships give the manager title to too many people. The *finance manager* is actually the finance & insurance salesman (F&I guy) who is paid on commission for the unneeded and/or overpriced stuff they sell you when you buy a car. The *service manager* usually is a commission paid service writer. There are actual managers with authority in the dealership, but it may take some digging to find them.
It's a bit tricky when one doesn't know cars and the service writer says, "we can fix that squeal with a brake job." That usually means that they'll fire up their parts cannon and put every new expensive part they can on that section of your car. You'll get parts you don't need, but you just don't know. And, if the problem is still there at the end...see the next paragraph.
As said by sm1ke above, request an appointment with the manager of the service department, the actual service manager (not just a service writer) to discuss why you should pay for work that did not fix the problem that hopefully was stated on the repair order. The dealership wants satisfied customers. As always, be business-courteous. Check your state's law regarding auto repairs. Some states have regulations regarding repairs that install unneeded parts and repairs that are unnecessary...and work that does not fix the problem is obviously unnecessary.
Dealerships give the manager title to too many people. The *finance manager* is actually the finance & insurance salesman (F&I guy) who is paid on commission for the unneeded and/or overpriced stuff they sell you when you buy a car. The *service manager* usually is a commission paid service writer. There are actual managers with authority in the dealership, but it may take some digging to find them.
