OBD II Diagnostics failed

[balilewis]

Hey guys,

My check engine light was on, found out it was the O2 sensor and I replaced it.
In order to do so, I unhooked the battery to reset everything and hooked it back on after it was installed.

My check engine light is off now and I drove the car around for around 100 miles.
I live in CA and I need to get my smog certificate, so I went to a place and I passed on everything except on my OBD II Diagnostics.

This is what the report said.

Continuous Monitors
Misfire - Ready
Fuel System - Ready
Comprehensive Components - Ready

Non-Continuous Monitors
Catalyst - Not ready
Evaporative System - Not ready
Oxygen Sensor - Not ready
EGR System - Not Ready

To pass it I have to make everything into ready. Any ideas on how to do so? It has to do with my drive cycles right? I've done 100 miles of mixed freeway/city driving.

 

[bigpturgeon]

You are right. mine was ready after about 150 miles, keep doing what you are doing and they will all be ready.

 

[balilewis]

OK that's what I thought.
I'll drive it for another 100 miles or so and get it checked again
Thanks!

 

[Astral]

Follow this procedure after leaving your car off overnight:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123759295-Found-a-successful-Drive-Cycle-formula!

I was able to get passing on almost everything (except EVAP, I think) in 30 miles.

 

[P-Funk!]

Astral asks' who got tha funk?'

Answer: P-Funk! Parliament Funkadelic

The Clones of Dr. Funkenstien!

werd. (hippy)

 

[Astral]

werd indeed. Funk proper.

 

[balilewis]

Thanks for that link Astral.
I followed it, and I think all my drive cycle is completed because my check engine light went on again.

Disconnecting the battery automatically turns of the check engine light until the car finishes with its OBD diagnostic right?

So I'm guessing that it wasn't my O2 sensor? I'm going to have to get it scanned and get the codes I guess.

 

[bigpturgeon]

Get the code its the only way anyone will be able to help you out on here.

 

[Astral]

Yeah, get the codes. Stop by Autozone. Better yet, pick up a scanner so you can read them at your leisure. I have an OBD II scanner that looks like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MaxiScan-MS...ol-Check-Engine-Light-Reset-CAN-/280993577594 -- it's $19 shipped. It gets you the codes, which you can then search these forums for. That same device will tell you if your emissions indicators are ready.

 

[balilewis]

Thanks guys.
I just bought the scanner from Ebay. Thanks for the link. Should be really helpful, especially to see if my emissions indicators are ready before I bring it to the smog station.

 

[balilewis]

So the code is P0171.
I just replaced the O2 sensor so nothing wrong with that.

I'm going to check if theres a crack in my hose

 

[bigpturgeon]

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Also did you replace the right 02 sensor? It would be the first sensor that needs replacing.

 

[balilewis]

Yes I replaced the first sensor.
I bought this car used 1 month ago and its the first car I've ever owned.

Do you think it would be easier if I bring it into a shop? Or are there any of those things on the list that I can do easily (my friend has a good toolbox)?

Edit: I also noticed that when idling, the engine will sometime rev up a little and then go back down. Happens every 8-10 seconds or so.

 

[bigpturgeon]

Vacuum leak check to make sure there are no holes or tears in the plastic accordion looking tube coming from your air box. Take it off and visually inspect it.

 

[balilewis]

Hey guys,

I really don't know anything about cars - but I really want to learn!
So I got a picture of what's under my hood, and I'm wondering if you guys can point me to places/parts where I can check for vacuum leaks and other possible causes?

http://imgur.com/CP4PR

Thanks!

I also have close ups if you want them.

 

[Installshield 2]

The main vacuum lines on a 3rd gen protege run around the intake manifold (which is at the back of picture, towards the firewall)...They circulate around a 'purge system' which is a system that bleeds off excessive gasoline vapor pressure into a purge canister, which is the then fed into the intake manifold to be burned under certain conditions...You can find the purge canister and its associated valve on the fire wall at the back left of your picture, under a round plastic plate looking thing which is the cruise controller...the canister is bolted to the fire wall...Follow the lines coming out of that every where they go, and inspect every inch if you can, especially at or near any bends or other fittings they press into.

the next system would be the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, and its hoses. The PCV valve is directly on top of the head cover, right in the center of your picture. Pop that out (it just presses into a rubber grommet), wipe off any build up of oil on it...and try to wiggle it enough to feel a slight shift in weight, as well as something 'rattling' inside of it...there is a ball bearing inside of it that needs to be mobile for the system to function properly....then follow the associated lines every where they go, same as with the purge system. There is also a vacuum line coming out of the head cover and connecting somewhere on your intake system (your's is not stock, can't quite see where it runs in from your pic, but just follow the line)

Last would be the EGR system. This consists of a metal tube coming from the exhaust manifold (front drivers side of that metal heat shield, lower part of your picture), bending around the head of the engine, and back towards the throttle body (the connection area of your metal intake plumbing and the intake manifold)...underneath the TB there is a metal block looking thing which is the EGR valve/solenoid which controls the re circulation of a portion of exhaust gas...nothing for you to be concerned with other than if that tube and/or any connections to that have any problems.

Thats where to start anyway...I'm not familiar with Cali emissions testing though, and from what i read higher up...you may not have a problem at all, its just a matter for fully cycling your PCM before the testing...

 

[balilewis]

Thanks Installshield for taking your time to write that. Really appreciate it.
Anyways, I took a look and nothing is cracked or have a tear.

BUT

I found a hose that isn't connected to anything. Could this be it?

http://imgur.com/a/0MPIR

You can't see it in the picture, but the other end of the hose is connected to the metal thing with the yellow red cables attached to it

 

[Installshield 2]

from what i can tell...yes, that could be it.

As i said earlier, I'm not familiar with your intake system because its not stock. From what i can see, that line should be running into the sensor mounted on the intake tubing. I can't remember if that is the actual purge valve/solenoid...or if that is simply a sensor...but its definitely related to the purge system, which will give you emission inspection problems. I would imagine you'd have a code thrown by it too, but if you haven't driven it long enough that could be why it isn't on yet.

Auto parts stores carry all kinds of vacuum lines for very cheap. If you can not reconnect it (looks like its been cut or something?), cut an inch or so more off and take it to the store to get the right diameter replacement. Follow the line back to the purge canister (that would be to the left of your photo) to see how much length you need.

Its possible though that that is part of the brake booster lines (there are a lot of vacuum lines back there), so make sure you hooking the right lines up to the right thing...but, like you said; if you can see that it should be connected to that thing on the metal intake piping...thats all you need...

EDIT: ok, just looked at mine. Comparing your photo to my engine bay; its just as you said. You either a new vacuum line to run from the canister on the fire wall to that part mounted on the intake, or simply an line adapter to connect the cut tube. Very easy fix, if you have an autozone or something near by...most of the time someone will come out to look at your car and help you find what you need...no matter what this won't be more than $10...so you're in pretty good shape....I also didn't look closely, but you can clearly see that your vacuum line to the brake booster is properly connected (you can see it under and to the right of your hand in the second picture)

 

[balilewis]

It is throwing a code P0171, car running too lean.
I'll go to autozone and get it check out.

Also, where should I connect the cut tube to?

 

[Installshield 2]

yep, that is the exact problem then. Your intake manifold is pulling in unregistered air behind the Mass Airflow Sensor, because of engine vacuum. That hose will normally add fuel vapor...instead its adding clean fresh air, as its just an open hose on the intake manifold behind the throttle body right now...the computer isn't seeing that air flow because its coming in after the reading from the sensor, so it isn't compensating by adding fuel.

now just get a new hose put on there and it'll be fine. Easy fix, bud...you're in luck.