O2 LX ignition key won't turn past at ACC position.

jams4

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02 Mazda Protege LX, 06 Mazda MPV LX, 12 Mazda 5 Sport
Today I put my 02 Protege LX ( with 93k miles) into Park, switched it off the ignition and the key stopped turning at the ACC position and would not turn to the LOCK position so I could take the key out. It turns back and starts up and turns off, but will not go past ACC. I drove the car home and garaged it. There was no indication that failure to turn was imminent.This is the first time the car has failed me since I bought it over 10 years ago. What could possibly be the problem?
 
Probably some dust/gunk in the lock cylinder. If the key could be removed, I'd recommend some ground up graphite (or just rub the edge of a pencil on the key to build up a layer of graphite) to lubricate the lock cylinder. With it stuck in the cylinder, I'd say get a can of "dry film lube" available at any Autozone, and try to spray that into the lock cyilnder around the key. Petroleum based lubes will just attract more dust and dirt.

If that doesn't work, I'm out of ideas.
 
I agree with Phil,
To get the key to turn when it is stuck, tap it with something hard to seat the key all the way. When you remove the key, lubricate it with dry graphite. You can buy a tube at most auto parts stores.
 
Any ideas on how to get the key out? Local Mazda dealer quoted me close to $500 to replace the lock!!!
 
Try rotating your steering wheel, to the left and then to the right, multiple times while trying to turn the ignition key. Make sure the transmission is securely in "PARK".
I once had to do this after pulling on the steering wheel enough to lock it. The key couldn't be removed until I yanked on the steering wheel while turning the key.
 
I've tried everything suggested and the key will not turn from ACC to LOCK. It turns from ACC to ON and START and will start:will go back from ON to ACC but then stops and will not turn to LOCK. It looks like an expensive trip to the Mazda dealer looms!!!
 
Update: Went to the internet and found out how to pull out an ignition lock cylinder. Pulled mine out and lo and behold the key now turns to LOCK and comes out!! ( (while it is out of the lock barrel). I put it back in and surprise surprise, it will not turn from ACC To LOCK. Will replacing the lock cylinder help me or it it more serious than that like I need to the whole ignition assembly? Or is there a problem with the transmission interlock. Car is an automatic. Any suggestions.
 
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Here are a couple of suggestions from a different vehicle's owners. This may be the issue with your car, as well.

Your ignition switch is powered and powers a 10 amp fuse labled BTSI which feeds the park shifter position switch which when in park supplies voltage to your ignition key solenoid which when in park will energize and release the key to go to the lock position. If your transmission shifter is loose it could cause a problem or if your solenoid is failing than that would be the problem. That would be my guess. (solenoid) Anyway get someone who will troubleshoot it and not waste your money with the wrong new parts.

Mark answered 1 year ago

it may have something to do with a safety feature on most cars. there is a cable attached to your shifter, that when you put the shifter in park, or on a stick 1st/reverse, allows the key to turn all the way back to lock and be removed. if there is something wrong with the cable like it is broke, getting caught, etc, the lock cylinder wont be able to turn to lock, only accessory.
 
Concept. Thanks for finding these suggestions. After dismantling the ignition and the key turning in the lock when it was
out of the barrel, I thought it had to something else. I'll have to garage the car till I can find time to go to a mechanic who will be able to fix it.
 
Jams,
That's probably your best bet unless someone else had the same issue and can tell you how it was resolved.
 
Update on the problem... It was the selector cable. It was worn where it connects to the Selector. The selector was in Park, but because of the wear, the interlock was not fully engaged hence not letting the key be removed. The key and the ignition lock were fine. It cost about $140 to fix. I believe that labor was majority of the cost!!! Hope it's back to the good old reliable Madza it has always been.
 
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Thanks for updating the fix. It will inevitably benefit others, many times over.
 
I'm also having the same problem,i used lubricant around the ignition,the key and inside the hole.It finally came out and was good for about a month, went to park the car just now in reverse and parked it and it got stuck again.Ive had the odd times before, when i park it, that when i used force on the key it would turn the battery off or it would come out.Is there anything else i can do without taking out the ignition or going to get it fixed??? it felt smooth turning the ignition after the lubrication and this happened pretty fustrating, but ill keep in mind about the selector cable.
 

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