New To Changing Your Own Oil

[Darkhorse]

Okay so i just got my rhino ramps in and i'm looking to change my oil asap right when i get a chance. I have a couple questions and would your suggestions and tips on them.

First of all:
1. What kind of oil is best for our engine? I've heard Amsoil.
2. What filter do I need to buy? is there a specific model number?
3. I'm not cheap, but do I HAVE to buy one of those oil tubs that catch the used oil from the car? Is there another route in doing it? Do I dispose of it at the DUMP?
4. Any helpful hints, hints, and suggestions you guys could give to a newb?

thanks for the help guys. i appreciate it.

 

[numbnuts22715]

how to here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123667276

1. A lot of people use different kinds of oil, a lot of people use mobil one, a lot use amsoil, a lot use pennzoil platinum.
2. Mazda oil filter part # L321 14 302 9U
3. You should buy an oil tub, not really any other way to catch it.. it's like 8 bucks or something. After you do the oil change, you cna put your old oil back in your new oil quarts, and take it to like autozone or something, they let you dump it there. You can't just dump it in the trash or anything like that. it kills the environment.

Should be it, the how-to is extremely useful.

 

[MikeHTally]

What numbnuts said is all good.
1. I'm using dead lizards 'til 9K, then Pennzoil Platinum. Make sure you use 5w-30 (10w-30 in very warm climates, MAYBE).
2. Any good filter is fine. It's the change interval that's important. I switched to the spin-on conversion, so it's a K&N HP 2009 for the next 40K or so.
3. No matter how you drain the oil, ya gotta catch it somehow. You can hope it runs into the catch pan, or there's one other way: http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/ I take my used oil to Advance Auto Parts or to a quick-change place nearby.

 

[builthatch]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123667276

 

[Young Roids]

Okay so i just got my rhino ramps in and i'm looking to change my oil asap right when i get a chance. I have a couple questions and would your suggestions and tips on them.

First of all:
1. What kind of oil is best for our engine? I've heard Amsoil.
2. What filter do I need to buy? is there a specific model number?
3. I'm not cheap, but do I HAVE to buy one of those oil tubs that catch the used oil from the car? Is there another route in doing it? Do I dispose of it at the DUMP?
4. Any helpful hints, hints, and suggestions you guys could give to a newb?

thanks for the help guys. i appreciate it.

1. I have heard penzoilplatnum is the best for DI cars due to the high fuel dillution and the pezoil platinums ability to hold up to that dilution.

2. I got the 10 pack of mazda filters from rontonkin and they give you a free filter wrens wich is necisarry to get the filter off. I have tried variouse filter wrenches from auto parts stores and none of them worked but the mazda one is smooth.
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...fo&PartID=376084&siteid=214328&catalogid=4249
3. yes you will need a tub.

4. take the oil to any local auto shop and they will be happy to have it most shops can recycle the oil or they will use it to heat their shop.

 

[Hank3]

Where do you purchase the two rubber O-rings for the oil filter or do they come with the filters when you buy them? And how about the crush washer for the drain bolt? I have one free oil change at the dealer, but after that I think I'll start doing them myself, too.

 

[Kain]

The two O-rings come with the OEM filter. You need to ask for crush washers separately.

 

[Hank3]

Thanks, Kain. Hey, Mike - which Fumoto (Quick Oil Drain Valve) did you get? There seems to be a bit of different ones on their Web site. I had one on my Subaru and loved it. It makes things cleaner and quicker - and you don't have to get the crush washers any more

 

[Kain]

I'm interested in that drain valve, as well. If someone knows the exact model to get, please share. I'll swap it out during my next change.

 

[Hank3]

Actually I just checked again - it's the F106 model and probably one of the extensions according to a member on the other forum. Maybe Mike can chime in here. You can get one with the nipple or without. The one with the nipple is there if you want to connect a drain tube on it to direct the oil into your tub. I always just used the one without the nipple on my Subaru. I had one on it for five years and it was SOOO nice to have. My wife actually has it on her Protege since I do the oil changes. Just flick the switch and the oil comes out steadily. Very clean and fast. People who have never heard of it are leary because they're afraid something may hit the switch while driving (i.e. rock hitting it), but if you understand the technology, it's almost impossible for that to happen. Anyways, I will be ordering one after that complimentary oil change at my local dealer. I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned on here more often. A lot of Subaru owners have them and swear by them - me included

 

[MikeHTally]

F106N is the valve number for the one with the nipple on it. I'm not sure of the adapter number, but it's on the site. I use the "-N" units on my cars. Just makes it easier to put a 5/8" hose on and direct the oil right into the catch pan. For those concerned about accidental release, you can put a 5/8" hose clamp on top of the valve to add some peace of mind. The combination of hose clamp and spring-loaded valve pretty much makes it impossible for accidental draining.

I'll look up the adapter when I get home and post the number.

EDIT: The valve is F-106N, the adapter is ADP106.

 

[Darkhorse]

i forgot to replace the oil drain washer with a new one. Will it make a detrimental difference?

 

[MikeHTally]

i forgot to replace the oil drain washer with a new one. Will it make a detrimental difference?

Probably not... just be watchful for leaks. Very likely NOT an issue. Just don't ever, EVER, EVER do it again.

 

[VermZ06]

Technically you're supposed to switch out the washer with a new one, but honestly I still have the original and there's really nothing 'crushed' about it. The thing is pretty much mint. The only problem I have with the oil change is the hex plug in the housing drain, the damn thing is soooo easy to strip...doh! (hand)

I use 5w30 Mobil1 synth everytime with a new filter. Car runs like a gem with that stuff. I still can't believe a 4cly takes 6 quarts (eek2)

 

[Darkhorse]

another question. Does it usually take a liitle time for the dip stick to catch oil?I wiped it and dipped it in and it never touched any oil. Then tried again and grabbed some. I put about 5 and a quarter quarts in.

 

[MikeHTally]

... I still can't believe a 4cly takes 6 quarts (eek2)

Not all of 'em do. Mine is happy at 5 1/2 (the Mazda truck filter I'm about to start using may take it to 6 -- I'll know in about five weeks when I do the 6K change).

 

[Darkhorse]

another question. Does it usually take a liitle time for the dip stick to catch oil?I wiped it and dipped it in and it never touched any oil. Then tried again and grabbed some. I put about 5 and a quarter quarts in.

 

[MikeHTally]

another question. Does it usually take a liitle time for the dip stick to catch oil?I wiped it and dipped it in and it never touched any oil. Then tried again and grabbed some. I put about 5 and a quarter quarts in.

You're at least a pint low... Put oil in 'til you get very close to the "max" mark. Mine takes 5 1/2 qts.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

i forgot to replace the oil drain washer with a new one. Will it make a detrimental difference?

I've gone tens of thousands of miles and over a half dozen oil changes with the same washer in previous cars without a single leak. The washer is more for over-torque protection rather than for stopping a leak. When Mazda dealers are throwing 5W-20 in this car, do you really think they change out the washer while they're at it? Heck no. Don't lose sleep over not changing the washer. Just be careful when you're tightening the bolt because if you strip the oil pan, you will most likely have a leak that no washer is going to stop!