New Motor Mounts .... need them or not?

[Black_Protege_5]

MP3Performance. Try and reduce the vibration at a light like this. Reset your ecu. Put it back in and start the car and turn on every thing that uses power. AC, highbeams, hazards and anything else you can think of. Leave it like that for about 5 mins. That way it will give enough time for the ECU to learn how to draw the power without effecting the idle. I have tried both ways and this really works. At night when you turn things one the idle won't drop and vibrate.

 

[SergMSP]

MP3Performance. Try and reduce the vibration at a light like this. Reset your ecu. Put it back in and start the car and turn on every thing that uses power. AC, highbeams, hazards and anything else you can think of. Leave it like that for about 5 mins. That way it will give enough time for the ECU to learn how to draw the power without effecting the idle. I have tried both ways and this really works. At night when you turn things one the idle won't drop and vibrate.

no fukin way, this really works? so looks like im leaning towards getting getting front & rear 70 durometer, and side inserts 70......damn i hope i dont regret it....getting a downpipe was the start of this...i really hope i dont regret it..

 

[Black_Protege_5]

I haven't and I have the 88 front and 95 rear.

 

[MSP403]

Word to platinummsp, jus changed the front, rear, and sides. Listen to this guy ^^^^ this writeup is 100% correct, if you are worried about vibration buy the lowest durameter!! Anything is better that the stock (DX, LX, P5 mounts) for our turbo application!!

 

[MP3Performance]

Blak_Protege_5, thanks for the tip. I never have heard of it before, but I will give it a try for sure. It does make sence so maybe it will work for me.

 

[SergMSP]

Blak_Protege_5, thanks for the tip. I never have heard of it before, but I will give it a try for sure. It does make sence so maybe it will work for me.

let us know!

 

[caseb4]

I just found out that my passenger mount is messed up. I think it is best to swap all of the mounts out at one time. This thread has definitely won me over to buying the ********** motor mounts. Thanks.

 

[69RMSP]

mawhahawhawh, im getting them for xmas

24 years young and my family still spoils me.

I just found out that my passenger mount is messed up. I think it is best to swap all of the mounts out at one time. This thread has definitely won me over to buying the ********** motor mounts. Thanks.

 

[yellowmsp035]

i have 68,000kms on my car, a fmic, a 3'' turbo back stainless steel exhaust (so with a dp) and a cold air intake under the hood and from some stupid ass reason i still havent changed mine. i have checked and they are pretty badly trashed. the two intakes(piping) are all scratched up becuase of the motor sway and banging into things... i just had to weld the end of my resonator back together when it got ripped off because engine movement stressing and yanking on it (will post pics tomorrow). and to top it all off i just found out that i now have a cracked exhaust manifold from the jerking. i was thinking about the AWR set but now i am torn between the SU set... all im trying to say is i am a perfect example of how dumb someone can be without changing them and what can happen... please don't follow in my footsteps. be smart replace your engine mounts.

 

[69RMSP]

I was in the same position. I didnt have motor mounts which resulted into a cracked mani. After the dealership repalced it I had them put it on alittle lose untill I put in the motor mounts. I know this caused loss in power due to a leak but I really didnt want to keep cracking the mani.

If your downpipe was made the same was corksports is, I suggest having a look at that aswell..

i have 68,000kms on my car, a fmic, a 3'' turbo back stainless steel exhaust (so with a dp) and a cold air intake under the hood and from some stupid ass reason i still havent changed mine. i have checked and they are pretty badly trashed. the two intakes(piping) are all scratched up becuase of the motor sway and banging into things... i just had to weld the end of my resonator back together when it got ripped off because engine movement stressing and yanking on it (will post pics tomorrow). and to top it all off i just found out that i now have a cracked exhaust manifold from the jerking. i was thinking about the AWR set but now i am torn between the SU set... all im trying to say is i am a perfect example of how dumb someone can be without changing them and what can happen... please don't follow in my footsteps. be smart replace your engine mounts.

 

[mickeyreategui]

go for them, even if you are not going to mod the car at all. i had the rear and front done with awr mounts and 70 durometer inserts, and it had crazy vibration when at idle and the air on. but then i got the side inserts and it knocked down the vibration to little bit more than stock. you can feel the instant difference once they are in, no more wheel hop and you can feel you shifts go smoother and to the ground faster. love them wish would have done them a long time ago.

 

[dnett15]

they are a must have, i have 90 dur. mounts, car does shake(something you have to get used to) but with the mounts i shaved .3 secs on my 1/8 mile time, helped with tire hop

 

[Black_Protege_5]

Unfortunaltly I will be selling my car soon so i will have some mounts up for sale.

As for the SU kit I would like to see the difference. Performance wise I don't think you will notice a difference but SU might be a little more comfortable. But for double the price I don't know if I can get myself to spend that much when I got all of my mounts for around $110.

Have you tried the battery reset?

 

[SergMSP]

thanks guys for all the posts, youve all collectively inspired me to get them for sure. I found the rear 70 durometer at a fair price here on the forums...lookin for front now...i hear that if you put in sides the vibration gets worse...which would make sense since your engine is locked in its place from all sides....how many of you guys have all 4 mounts changed?

 

[RenzoMSP]

I have the 95 front motor mount. Is it necessary to replace the rear? Will i gain anything? I still get wheel hop from time to time. Also will replacing the rear make the car vibrate even more?

 

[Black_Protege_5]

The rear is the big one. I have all around and am happy. Well worth it IMO. It is not fun to install the rear though.

 

[RenzoMSP]

Anyone have a rear awr mount for sale?

 

[lisevolution]

Anyone else try that battery reset trick yet??? Curious if that actually works since I definitely need to do something soon to stop the engine movement... the driveline lash is ridiculous!

 

[SergMSP]

Anyone else try that battery reset trick yet??? Curious if that actually works since I definitely need to do something soon to stop the engine movement... the driveline lash is ridiculous!

ridiculous really? what durometer are yours? i hear that the AWR 70 durometer (lowest you can go) front and back vibrate alot but after like 2-3 weeks it gets better and vibrates like stock with A/C on...can anyone validate this?

 

[MP3Performance]

I have 70 duro front and back with side inserts, and I can say that it does get better after a week or so of driving. BUT, atleast for me, having the A/C on especialy with the lights is not like stock at all. It does vibrate noticebly with the new mounts, with the stock ones there was almost no vibration. That being said, its not too bad, and if you care more about performance then comfort it is no problem at all.