Need help picking out my audio system

pydpypr said:
I have the RF 15004. The power input conector on the amp is 1/0 awg. So after the 0ga. makes it into the trunk, iam supposed to reduce it to 4ga. even if the amps connector is for 0ga.? Won't the wire heat up if it is too small?


say the amp puts out 300x4. 1200 watts / 50% efficiency = 2400 watts input. 2400 watts / 14.4 volts = 167 amps input. say you've got 14 ft of 1/0 cable with 297 amps flowing through it (basing the T10001 on 1500 watts output at 80% efficiency = 130 amps). the voltage drop from the 1/0 cable would be .181 amps. 3 ft of 4 gauge cable with 167 amps flowing through it will drop the voltage another .232 volts. the wire will account for a .413 volt drop, which is acceptable (.5 volts being the most you would want). BUT keep in mind that music is dynamic, so you will never be drawing a full 297 amps. plus i seriously doubt you would ever push that T15004 to its full potential, unless you had it running subs.
 
O.K., thanks guy's. I appreciate your wisdom and the information that comes from it. I will probably have more questions before it's all said and done.

"got wake?" did you ever get the legatia installed? It was funny that you showed me those L3's, because i had bumped into finding them while browsing like the day before that. I felt kind of stupid about the whole 4" in the a-pillar thing. I thought i saw someone do it somewhere before, when i went back to check my facts i found out that it was 3". I don't know how i mistaken them for 4". I am still thinking of doing this. But iam going to wait for awhile, until after everything i have now has already been installed.
 
sorry, haven't installed the L3's yet :( i put them on my desk at work to remind me that i need to finish the install, but so far it has just depressed me about not having my system installed:( there needs to be another 8 hours in a day and another day or two added on to each weekend.
 
Well i guess i won't be doing any installs for awhile. My car got wrecked day before yesterday. Really sucks, because i like my car. It wasn't my fault and they had ins. This is my third accident in a year and 4 months, and none of them were my fault. I am getting tired of looking for another car every five months. Part of me wants them to fix it, and part of me hopes they don't. I don't really like owning previously wrecked vehicles.
 
what sucks is that your insurance can go up if you get too many wrecks that aren't your fault :( i had a teacher in high school that got rear ended a few times and her insurance went up not because of her driving, but because she was a "risk".
 
Hmm, maybe someone here can help me:
I went back from my 2 kicker 12s with 800w rms to my stock POS spare sub woofer thinking it would be enough for sq but it's really not. I listen to jazz and rock mostly. I was looking at the JL 10w3v3 and it looks perfect to me: I want bass that goes down pretty low, and is very clean sounding in a sealed box. Space concerns in my hatch are paramount. The car's already wired up with 4ga wiring so I just need a sub/enclosure/amp that will conserve space. What do you think?
 
Do the 10w3 over to the side of ahtch behind a wheel well. It should be able to go flush and take up virtualy no space but still give the sub proper airspace to work with.

Its been done alot so you should be able to find some posts on it. It will require a knowledge in fiberglassing. I would use wood for the mounting ring, top and bottom though.
 
Well, i guess the ins. company is going to fix my car instead of total it out. I am not sure how i feel about that. I don't really like owning a previously wrecked vehicle. Besides the body damage, the rear strut and strut tower were bent, the swaybars are bent, and possably the crossmember. I am not sure why they won't total it out. But iam going to be pissed if i have nothing but problems after they say the car is fixed.

Anyway i was thinking of changing some things with the setup for my system. What do you guy's think if i get rid of my JL 12w7, and switch to a pair of DVC 12" alpine type R, or a pair of DVC 12" eclipse. If i did this i would be able to utilize the power of my T10001bd much better. Or....i could get rid of the amp and get a JL 1000/1. For obvious reasons the 1000/1 works better with 12w7 than the RF T10001bd will. I will probably hook it all up as is for now and make these changes a little later.
 
Also i was wondering if i got a JL 13W7-D1.5 and wired it in parallel. Do you think the RF T10001bd run ok at .075 ohms? I was thinking since it is already 1 ohm stable, if i didn't run it hard it would be ok?
 
most every RF amp i've seen/heard about can be run a bit below its minium rated impedance. there's a guy on termpro that is running his T10001BD at .45 ohms daily without any problems. you shouldn't have any problem with .75 ohms. you'd definitely have problems with .075, though ;)
 
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