NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's

Yah they're gone, talked to Steve (Integral) bout 2 mnths ago and he was starting to close shop. I've got a stg2 intake and stage 1 exhaust with low run time. You interested in a trade my stg1 for your stg2?

Dayumn. What a shame. I'm interested... but I was hoping for a complete Stage I set, so we could mix and match to find out which works best... How do you like yours?

Dint the fs rods the same of the fz?

Whats mods did you have Niki?

Don't really recall, but yes, it's probably the pistons that are different. I'm thinking of getting 11:1 or higher pistons to complement the cams and maybe doing the SR20 rods... but I'm through messing around with this motor. Until it eats itself to death, mods stay as is.

Mod list is elsewhere, but it's basically:
K&N cone with custom heat shield, custom stainless intake tubing with the cone behind the headlight and the coolant bottle moved out of the way for more tube length. The extra length over a shorty alone gives 5 whp, so it's almost as good as a CAI.

Liang-Fei 626 header, 4-2-1. Made in Taiwan for the 626, so we had to cut and weld the rear end to make it fit. Not too happy with it, gained nothing over the Thunder/OBX shorty design. May get a full custom set-up.

2.375" mid-pipe. 2.5" post resonator. 2.5" Muffler (generic) All mandrel bends.

Unichip Q piggyback, tuned ignition and fuel maps.

O2 disconnected (yay, Asian/Aussie no-CEL ECUs... :D )
Integral 2s and SR cam gears (modified)

Upgraded synchros, 3rd and 5th gear, welded MSP LSD, and a short shifter

148 whp on Dastek, should be between 145-150 on a 'Jet.

Did 152 with cams in stock position, but had no low-end torque, so we tweaked it a bit. I suppose if I removed the muffler and went for a straight pipe and kept the cams at 0, I could hit 156... maybe even 160... but no way would I pass emissions that way... and it would be a dog to drive. I'd rather have useable power than a car that's only fun for just 500 revs before the limiiter.
 
Only ran the cams with a stock ECU and they felt good above 4000, putting everything together now with a Microtech.Whats condition of your stg2's.
 
Only ran the cams with a stock ECU and they felt good above 4000, putting everything together now with a Microtech.Whats condition of your stg2's.

Wouldn't know. Haven't opened her up for a while, but I've been running them for about 20k miles or so. Mine ran fine at 0,0 with the ECU in stock trim and the O2s plugged... but they really only come alive at high rpms. Then again, I'm running a pretty open exhaust and have a port&polish, to boot.
 
Interested... but I'm all the way out in the Philippines, so shipping on both our ends will be expensive... and I'm still working on retuning my set-up... if things are okay on the retune (we just fixed an exhaust leak that might have been causing some issues) then I won't change the cams out. Sorry.
 
That's cool. I get employee rates at Fedex so both ways is cheap for me.Let me know how your retune goes and if you want to trade.
 
MS2 will be fine. Those who are hating on it, have likely never used it. It works differently from most standalone engine managements..I am running MS3/MS3x on my build.

It works the same as ALL engine management systems - sensor input lookups on a table outputs pulse to deliver fuel/spark..
it just does it *very poorly* when compared to the likes of Haltech's latest offerings.

You've decided to use it, i still contend you shouldn't be on your build..and i wont ever recommend anyone does so on theirs. Next to a modern, sophisticated engine management system it simply doesn't stack up.

Its cool in that you get to build it yourself...and its psuedo-open design is kind of cool..but thats as far as its benefits go as far as i'm concerned....
 
What kind of RPM's do you think I'll be good for when I put in my 11:1 wisecos and 5.4" K-1 long rods? Also what manifold do you thinks better up high, a portmatched 626 mani or the stock mani with all the insides removed and portmatched, from what I've read shorter runners, if they are, would be better for higher frequency resonance at high RPMs?
 
What kind of RPM's do you think I'll be good for when I put in my 11:1 wisecos and 5.4" K-1 long rods? Also what manifold do you thinks better up high, a portmatched 626 mani or the stock mani with all the insides removed and portmatched, from what I've read shorter runners, if they are, would be better for higher frequency resonance at high RPMs?

The 626 manifold is anecdotally lightyears ahead of the stock one no matter what you do - i haven't seen raw numbers but i've experienced a swap followed by tune and can tell you we were sinking a substantial amount more fuel into the car throughout the rev range to get the AFRs right...more fuel = more power.....

a 1.49:1 rod ratio isn't that great - but it should give you a nice comfortable 7500rpm redline, assuming they are strong enough to handle it. Strength against power doesn't really have a lot to do with it- you'll find a lot of turbo rods will quote "safe to 500hp" or whatever....but thats 500hp at say 7000rpm...throw them into a motor spinning at 8 or 9000rpm, and the forces at play become such that they tear themselves appart at less than half that power.

For drivability and safety i'd suggest you put the softcut at 7200 and hardcut at 7400 to 7500.... that gives you a nice enough buffer in first gear that you wont fly through the limiter, and will also be nicer on your gearshifts (synchros wont like shifting much higher than that...)
 
For drivability and safety i'd suggest you put the softcut at 7200 and hardcut at 7400 to 7500.... that gives you a nice enough buffer in first gear that you wont fly through the limiter, and will also be nicer on your gearshifts (synchros wont like shifting much higher than that...)

You told me something similar, and were incorrect..

And I am not going to get into the discussion about MS..it is easy to down it when you A) have never used it, and/or B) didn't take the time to learn it and didn't set one up correctly.
 
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You told me something similar, and were incorrect..

And I am not going to get into the discussion about MS..it is easy to down it when you A) have never used it, and/or B) didn't take the time to learn it and didn't set one up correctly.

if you want to believe that a set of single cone synchros wont lock you out at high RPM - go right ahead. Most people who have explored high RPM on gearboxes with single cones will attest to a difficulty or downright impossibility in changing gears at high RPM. Even top end honda triple cone gearboxes don't like it much past 9k rpm. But hey...thats fine if you want to believe that I'm somehow wrong about this....

On the MS? why do i have to use it when the specifications speak for themselves? and perhaps more telling, no race team worth mentioning runs them, and no tuning shop that I know of will touch them. You speak about "learning to set one up" - there is something incredibly wrong with them if a basic understanding of tuning isn't enough to get you by.... MS are not special in that they have invented a whole new approach to tuning ECUs...they have in fact copied what many have done before them, like every other ECU manufacturer around.

I don't have to recommend them - and i will actively discourage their use - and you jumping up and down about how unfair it is that i haven't used one isn't going to change that.
 
What kind of RPM's do you think I'll be good for when I put in my 11:1 wisecos and 5.4" K-1 long rods? Also what manifold do you thinks better up high, a portmatched 626 mani or the stock mani with all the insides removed and portmatched, from what I've read shorter runners, if they are, would be better for higher frequency resonance at high RPMs?

How much for the wiseco pistons??
 
I guess no one has ever run a KL over 10k on a single synchro trans then...wrong. Just as I will. I am not believing that you are wrong, I KNOW you are wrong..but I am not going to gunk up this thread.

And on the MS thing..you have to learn to use any sort of engine management. 16x16 is more than enough tuning points. And I would love to know what 'doesn't stack up'..And I am not jumping up and down, but your opinion on MS holds no water..
 
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