thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
Javo said:
Javo, I'm not sure if you posted in the right thread... if your'e asking about the 3 engine, i'm not really sure.
NA Power Stage 1: Basic Modifications
- Thread starter thebeansoldier
- Start date
Javo, I'm not sure if you posted in the right thread... if your'e asking about the 3 engine, i'm not really sure.
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
Thanks for the sticky, tphskab (cabpatch)
BTW, anyone still interested in the Buddy Club Condenser, the best deal I could find is $125 shipped ($128.75 paypal) from streetrays, pm me if you're interested as I can only do 5 at a time, then 10 at a time if we get more people. But if they know more people are interested, I can probably talk him down to $120. They know they have the best deal (believe me, i've tried many places online and local, even the closest dealer to Buddy Club!) and can't do any lower at the moment. I will do a group buy thread. $10 off isn't bad
SpinZero, It's the 3's alternator that's weak, that's why even with the condenser installed and the engine's on, the headlights/gauge cluster still dim when you play with the window controls. Optima batteries don't do anything to solve the dimming either.
Yes, VVT is continuous, and there are several variable valves in the intake end that close or open depending on operating/coolant temp, and load. I think that sharp drop or gap is caused by the variable intake-air shutter valve opening (opens at 4700rpm) and VVT switching to "full load", and the ECU frantically calculating how much fuel to put in because of the greater amount of air coming in so suddenly.
"Borrow" your wife's car for a few minutes and try this, while cruising at 3K, WOT until redline on 3rd. You might feel like the car's power feels a little stagnant until it reaches 5k. Then try the same thing but WOT starting 2K. The VVT sets to "full load" right away and gives you the most power until red line.
BTW, anyone still interested in the Buddy Club Condenser, the best deal I could find is $125 shipped ($128.75 paypal) from streetrays, pm me if you're interested as I can only do 5 at a time, then 10 at a time if we get more people. But if they know more people are interested, I can probably talk him down to $120. They know they have the best deal (believe me, i've tried many places online and local, even the closest dealer to Buddy Club!) and can't do any lower at the moment. I will do a group buy thread. $10 off isn't bad
SpinZero, It's the 3's alternator that's weak, that's why even with the condenser installed and the engine's on, the headlights/gauge cluster still dim when you play with the window controls. Optima batteries don't do anything to solve the dimming either.
Yes, VVT is continuous, and there are several variable valves in the intake end that close or open depending on operating/coolant temp, and load. I think that sharp drop or gap is caused by the variable intake-air shutter valve opening (opens at 4700rpm) and VVT switching to "full load", and the ECU frantically calculating how much fuel to put in because of the greater amount of air coming in so suddenly.
"Borrow" your wife's car for a few minutes and try this, while cruising at 3K, WOT until redline on 3rd. You might feel like the car's power feels a little stagnant until it reaches 5k. Then try the same thing but WOT starting 2K. The VVT sets to "full load" right away and gives you the most power until red line.
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thebeansoldier said:Thanks for the sticky, tphskab (cabpatch)
BTW, anyone still interested in the Buddy Club Condenser, the best deal I could find is $125 shipped ($128.75 paypal) from streetrays, pm me if you're interested as I can only do 5 at a time, then 10 at a time if we get more people. But if they know more people are interested, I can probably talk him down to $120. They know they have the best deal (believe me, i've tried many places online and local, even the closest dealer to Buddy Club!) and can't do any lower at the moment. I will do a group buy thread. $10 off isn't bad
SpinZero, It's the 3's alternator that's weak, that's why even with the condenser installed and the engine's on, the headlights/gauge cluster still dim when you play with the window controls. Optima batteries don't do anything to solve the dimming either.
Yes, VVT is continuous, and there are several variable valves in the intake end that close or open depending on operating/coolant temp, and load. I think that sharp drop or gap is caused by the variable intake-air shutter valve opening (opens at 4700rpm) and VVT switching to "full load", and the ECU frantically calculating how much fuel to put in because of the greater amount of air coming in so suddenly.
"Borrow" your wife's car for a few minutes and try this, while cruising at 3K, WOT until redline on 3rd. You might feel like the car's power feels a little stagnant until it reaches 5k. Then try the same thing but WOT starting 2K. The VVT sets to "full load" right away and gives you the most power until red line.
Just curious, why only 5 at a time? I'm still considering the GB, just give me a couple days (gotta get my car tinted first(flame) )
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
boardumb said:
That's fine, they have 20 kits available at the moment and they can order more as needed. It's quicker for all of us to process 5 at a time, than waiting for all 10 people to pay. Once the first 5's done and I send my payment to StreetRays, the next 5 will be processed.
Here's the link to the Group Buy
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123632039
good stuff
hey... i'm not here nearly often enough, but rest assured (beansoldier) that the write up in this thread is most appreciated, and for that i respect you...
i am not usually one to "sheep" around and just think, "well if this guy said this and that, i should do it".... but your write up is just right in terms of allowing the less confident to get truly involved with their vehicles rather than "i hope this works"...
with my moderate (neither just basic nor advanced) knowledge of the car, i am looking forward to stage II. i feel like the parts and procedures will be nearly exactly what i am expecting.
i am done licking your cinnamon ring now- just wanted to let you know that your care for the better of this site is not unappreciated.
hey... i'm not here nearly often enough, but rest assured (beansoldier) that the write up in this thread is most appreciated, and for that i respect you...
i am not usually one to "sheep" around and just think, "well if this guy said this and that, i should do it".... but your write up is just right in terms of allowing the less confident to get truly involved with their vehicles rather than "i hope this works"...
with my moderate (neither just basic nor advanced) knowledge of the car, i am looking forward to stage II. i feel like the parts and procedures will be nearly exactly what i am expecting.
i am done licking your cinnamon ring now- just wanted to let you know that your care for the better of this site is not unappreciated.
there is so many Threads in different forums about the *GIMMICK* Stabalizers/condensors/Caps....
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110042
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50079
This one is like 15 pages...read it all!!! This was from a Reputable Japanese Shop for $240.... Nothing but Junk....
There is Absolutley not current flow through ANY of these parts.... why do you need blue fuses and thicker wires for $140!!!
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!!!!
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110042
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50079
This one is like 15 pages...read it all!!! This was from a Reputable Japanese Shop for $240.... Nothing but Junk....
There is Absolutley not current flow through ANY of these parts.... why do you need blue fuses and thicker wires for $140!!!
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SABIO said:
From what I read from those two links, it's only about one product, and from what I can tell they don't even make it anymore.
thebeansoldier has posted dynos, and TPR magazine did a grounding system dyno shootout last year. I don't see anything reputable telling me not to get this product.
Edit: Plus thebeansoldier's hot avatars on the other forum are hard to say no to (hump)
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thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
SABIO said:
Wow, way to attempt to thread crap, Sabio- and it's not even from the same manufacturer! what happend, did you get banned from mazda3forums.com from bad-mouthing the 3? (yawn)
Post the same thing in the other forum, see what they say
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
ZoomVT said:
he was "fine" a few months back- even dyno'd his intak+exhaust to show everyone. I think he traded in his 3 for a sentra. His more recent posts just badmouths the 3... eh, just treat him as a troll and go about your business
wierd i don't have that dip in the 5krpm range from my first dyno...the only thing that comes to mind is that this was after i did my audio so i only have 1 wire going to chasis ground from the neg terminal and it is 0awg... that and i have the simota sri but either way there isn't a dip in the 5k range.. ???
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thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
tsunami said:
Thanks for the dyno, tsunami. That much power at 90 degrees, very good!
May I ask a copy of your run file?Your graph is very smooth because it's started at at ~2k, so the throttle was requesting the VVT be put to full load right away.
that BCC graph is actually a more accurate interpretation of real-world benefits tell you why in a sec. Imagine cruising at 3K rpm, then all of a sudden, you want to race, and you WOT. The VVT's still in "medium load" until about 5k, where it switches to "full load". Would you really race someone by letting off the throttle until 2k then WOTing to request full load from the VVT right off the bat? No, as the guy you're racing against will probably be gone by then.
Dynos that start at 2k (like my other dynos) are only good to show peak power since you're requesting full load right away.
I scanned a diagram from the Service Highlights, which will show you what i'm talking about:
From the FAQ:
I can't completely verify this, but think I'm pretty close. According to the Service Highlights Manual, the "medium load" operation ends for the VVT at almost 5K, then switches to "full load" (what happens during that time will be the fuel mixture calculations or A/F map loading, VIS opening, etc). The condenser eliminates that gap, and smoothens the powerband. So downshifting from 4th to 3rd and WOT-ing for example, will yield a smoother acceleration
You should be able to tell what mods are in the filename.
Started at 3K after the advanced timing mod (for stage 2) vs the Buddy Club kit.
After telling the operator to start at 2k instead, we get this.
See the difference?
sadly i don't have an electronic copy its just scanned in from my hard copy.. i can send you that if you like???
thanks for clearing that up a little bit the map from the service manual was a bit much to take in at first but after staring at it for a bit and reading what you said it makes sense now, and the different "dips" make sense as well, i have another dyno scheduled for the begining of the month i will be sure to ask for one done @2k and one @3k... good info bean!!!
thanks for clearing that up a little bit the map from the service manual was a bit much to take in at first but after staring at it for a bit and reading what you said it makes sense now, and the different "dips" make sense as well, i have another dyno scheduled for the begining of the month i will be sure to ask for one done @2k and one @3k... good info bean!!!
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
tsunami said:
Well I have the electronic copy, it's up there! Make sure to bring a thumb drive to your next dyno so you can copy all your files. Sharing is caring
My next dyno will be in a few days to test the F2 intake. I'll see if I can have the operator request a full load just above idle- but it'll probably just stall because of the rollers, hehe.
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
I'm waiting for Ricardo to send me more parts for it (kn filter/new insert/a bolt/possibly a license frame to replace my AEM, etc ). I was planning to dyno it this saturday, but i'd like to dyno it with the new urethane insert and the KN filter which everyone will have in the GB. Interested in the GB? It's at
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=44791.0
). I was planning to dyno it this saturday, but i'd like to dyno it with the new urethane insert and the KN filter which everyone will have in the GB. Interested in the GB? It's athttp://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=44791.0
thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
i'm almost done. checking the file sizes, of the docs, the first one's 9k and the stage 2 is 16k (all text, mind you 
) i'll do my best not to disappoint.
) i'll do my best not to disappoint.thebeansoldier said:i'm almost done. checking the file sizes, of the docs, the first one's 9k and the stage 2 is 16k (all text, mind you
hey im all about waiting because if its anything like the stage 1(first) info then it will be good...keep up the good work!!
