My nuts are really tight...
- Thread starter clicknext
- Start date
fonzinator
Member
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- 03 Sunlight Silver P5
Amen! Torque wrenches are NOT a tool to remove bolts.BradC said:
I would recommend the following for breaking bolts loose:
- Soak with PB Blaster. Cost: $4.
- Buy a 3/4" and 1/2" breaker bar from Sears (Craftsman). This is nothing more than a long handled bar with a pivoting (non-wratcheting) drive head. Cost: $10 - $15 each.
- From your local home center, buy a 5' section of black, steel pipe. Take your new Craftsman breaker bars with you and buy the smallest pipe diameter that will fit over the end of the handle. Have the home center cut 1/3 of the pipe off. They should cut it for free, but don't pay to rethread the ends. You now have two massively strong breaker bars. A shorter one for tight spaces, and a long one for open spaces. These slide over the handle of your Craftsman breaker bars for massive leverage. Cost: $10
- Invest in a set of impact sockets (1/2" drive). Use your new setup on a regular socket, and you will shatter the socket. You need the strength of the impact sockets to go at really stuck bolts. Cost: $50 - $60.
- An Air Impact Wrench is really ncie, but your new breaker bar/pipe combo can throw WAY more torque at the bolt. If you are going to invest in air tools, get ready to spend at least $300 for a decent compressor/tool set. Additionally, you'll need 1/2" drive impact sockets at $50 - $60.
Tip: If you are up against a massively stuck bolt and you snap the head of the bolt off, go straight to drilling the bolt out. Trust me, you'll save yourself a TON of headache and time. Start with a small bit and work your way up. Spray WD-40 liberally while drilling.
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- '04 RX8
There is actually a tool for drilling out bolts, it might be just a different bit I was gunna look into it but it seems like a good thing to have. You drill in and when you drill out it pulls the bolt out so ive heard
Okay, took my nuts to a shop and they loosened them for me.
Seems they were really stuck on there because I had put PB blaster on them, and at the shop they still had to use a long breaker bar with a 2ft piece of pipe and push it while bracing against a wall. Hopefully a new nut/washer and it won't get stuck so bad next time.
Seems they were really stuck on there because I had put PB blaster on them, and at the shop they still had to use a long breaker bar with a 2ft piece of pipe and push it while bracing against a wall. Hopefully a new nut/washer and it won't get stuck so bad next time.
gone_fishin
Member
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- One of a Kind '99
A torque/breaker bar and some PB blast is the answer to all your stubborn nut problems.
I've got air tools, and even I turn to the breaker bar when a nut refuses to budge.
I've got air tools, and even I turn to the breaker bar when a nut refuses to budge.
miss_steele_msp
Member
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- mazdaspeed protege
Im sure your socket has a small crack if it's rounding your nuts. Try another socket and it should work. Removing bolts with the impact wrench makes life so much easier.
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
clicknext said:
nice.
I bought a 1/2" drive 24-inch (2 foot) breaker bar at a swap meet for $10. it's awesome. and of course, if i want even more leverage, i can slip over another pipe on the end. but i haven't had to do that yet. PB blaster works wonders too.
I replaced filled my mount with epoxy. That was a mistake. I thought having the rubber/epoxy combination would make for minimum vibrations but it feels like a massage chair at idle. Any higher rpm and you don't feel a thing. There must be a resonant frequency somewhere near 750rpm or something.
I've just put an order in for an SLS mount, hopefully that doesn't vibrate too much more than stock. I really like the throttle response I'm getting now but if I had to choose between the good throttle response or no vibrations, I'd choose no vibrations and go with the stock mount.
I've just put an order in for an SLS mount, hopefully that doesn't vibrate too much more than stock. I really like the throttle response I'm getting now but if I had to choose between the good throttle response or no vibrations, I'd choose no vibrations and go with the stock mount.
Motor mounts are designed to resist low frequencies like engine movement but yield to high frequencies like engine vibration. Hence they don't do as well at idle as they do at higher rpm. It's not a resonance condition.
3M urethane windshield adhesive would have worked better. It cures to 50-55 durometer and works well for filling stock mounts. I used it to fill my front mount and am still happy with the results 3K miles later.
3M urethane windshield adhesive would have worked better. It cures to 50-55 durometer and works well for filling stock mounts. I used it to fill my front mount and am still happy with the results 3K miles later.
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
aMaff said:
i found a harbor freight near my house, i'll go check it out. their online deals look pretty good. i hope their instore stuff is just as good. thanks!
You raise an interesting point. It seems like resonance is playing a role in the system. Because of inertia, the vibration amplitude at high frequencies is small. So whatever mounts you use the vibration diminishes as revs climb. However, the amplitude become larger as the revs drop because you're getting closer to the motor's resonance frequency (which is determined by the stiffness of the motor mounts). Stiffer mounts raise the resonance frequency. So the engine vibrations at idle are closer to the resonance frequency with aftermarket mounts than they are with softer mounts, hence the larger amplitude vibrations.clicknext said:
I think that expains it.
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