MP3-P5 Local ECU swap

It is a real easy swap. I swaped mine with a 2001 MP3. Pull up the passneger side front carpet and you'll see a silver plate. 4 10 MM bolts hold it in place. Undo those and 4 10 mm nuts hold the brackets that support the ECU. You only have to take off 2 of those and loosen the other 2 of the bracket nuts. There is a bolt in the top of the plug. Would you believe its a 10mm too? Unbolt it and the plug backs out. Now swap.

Instalation is the reverse. 20 minutes max.

Yes an MP3 will get a Check Engine Light. But will get the retarted timing needed to prevent detonation. The loss of the horse power isn't noticed much by the turbo'd car.

My MP5 got a smoother idle, lower RPMs, better fuel mileage & a smoother throttle responce. I didn't really notice any horse power gain from my swap. I'm sure there is but can't feel it from the seat. There is a 10 HP difference between the MP3 & the regular Proteges but the ECU doesn't make the entire HP. Better exhaust is one of the differences.

The P5 with a MP3 ECU will now have to rum 91 octane or better or you'll get pinging.

Over all I'm very happy with the trade and don't want to trade back. I'm glad I did it.

/members/rednecks_r_us/00_00013.jpg


EDIT: the picture doesn't seem to be working so here is a link for pictures of our brain transplant patients.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51313
 
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jsahyoun said:
He has an auto trans.
Topher what would you want for your ECU. I am not really wanting to buy one. Since it is an advantage for a manual P5 owner and myself. Almost 10 hp for the p5 owner and safety in boosting for my MP3.


Joe
 
jsahyoun said:
Topher what would you want for your ECU. I am not really wanting to buy one. Since it is an advantage for a manual P5 owner and myself. Almost 10 hp for the p5 owner and safety in boosting for my MP3.


Joe
Damn, I should have looked at this thread last weeek. I was just in the Detroit area for a few days and could have easily met up to do the swap!

Maybe if you still have it next time in down there then i'll hit you up. Might even be as early as next week!

-Sp

BTW, would this completely screw the P5's warranty? I'm not sure what the mazda tech guys would think when getting mp3 ecu responses from a p5???
 
StreetPreacher said:
BTW, would this completely screw the P5's warranty? I'm not sure what the mazda tech guys would think when getting mp3 ecu responses from a p5???
Play dumb or let my wife play blonde.
 
jsahyoun said:
Thanks for the offers, but I need someone who is local, so that nobody will be without a car. Thanks for info Dreeza, I didn't even look in his sig. I think that may be too far.

Joe

i understand, i just cant find anyone who would be willing to swap down here, i would be willing to drive a bit, especially if we waited until the end of march, when i graduate...then i'll have nothing to do until i find a job...
 
I completely mis-understood the question. I thought you were looking for somebody to do the swap for you. Let me think about this. The warranty part is what worries me.
 
your dealership will not know unless they scan the ECU...which is HIGHLY unlikely. you gain 10hp to the crank...you'll be turning less rpms (around 200 less at 80mph)...your car will idle better...you have better throttle responce...but you have to use premium gas...i have it in my car, and i love it. it's well worth it, imo.
 
Concept P5 said:
wanna swap?
i live in windsor ontario
i can drive across, and i have a manual p5

im sure he will swap with you. You seem to be the closest and i know he is looking to do this soon (weekend).

-B
 
Hey jsahyoun I would not mind sending mine in and letting my car rest for a few days..Let me know if you are intrested...Mine is a manual Pro..
 
Topher said:
you'll be turning less rpms (around 200 less at 80mph

That makes no sense at all. The only sense that could be made is that the rpm calibration on the tach is off by 200 rpm. The only way the car can do a lower rpm and maintain the same speed is by different gearing. A computer can't change that.

I could meet up this weekend. My buddy is having a workday in his shop (close to Ann Arbor, so it's a drive for both of us). But it's heated, and he's got a wash bay there. I'm planning on taking my head from my other car there apart, and finishing up some port work on it.
 
scotthidley said:
That makes no sense at all. The only sense that could be made is that the rpm calibration on the tach is off by 200 rpm. The only way the car can do a lower rpm and maintain the same speed is by different gearing. A computer can't change that.

I could meet up this weekend. My buddy is having a workday in his shop (close to Ann Arbor, so it's a drive for both of us). But it's heated, and he's got a wash bay there. I'm planning on taking my head from my other car there apart, and finishing up some port work on it.

whatever is fine with me. I am doing his turbo install and keeping up on his threads at the same time. If you are interested then pm him and ask him when is best.

-B
 
scotthidley said:
That makes no sense at all. The only sense that could be made is that the rpm calibration on the tach is off by 200 rpm. The only way the car can do a lower rpm and maintain the same speed is by different gearing. A computer can't change that.

When I did my custom ground wire kit my idle dropped by 100 RPMs
Then when I swaped ECU's My RPMs dropped by 200 all the way to red line.
My top speed went from a fuel cut off of 132 to 135.

130%20mph.jpg
 
It's simple physic's. You can't lower the rpm and drive the same speed in the same gear. Most likely there is a slight calibration difference. Also, don't trust your spedometer at those speeds. According to my Talon's spedometer, I'm trapping at ~ 90 mph in the 1/4, even though my 1/8 mile trap speed is ~87 (actual). My 1/4 trap is around 107. The gauges are nowhere near accurate (while that cars rpm gauge is reasonably accurate).

This is just something to keep in mind. I'm not trying to argue anything, just let you know that stock gauges aren't always accurate at their extreme readings.

Your spedometer may be correct, there isn't a good way to find out at those speeds. Part of the speedo error in the 1/4 can be due to the car accelerating faster than the gauge can. The error usually isn't linear, so say it's dead on at 70, that doesn't actually mean it's correct at 90, and may be further off at 100 and so on. Do you happen to know if the circumferences of the tires are different? That would be a continuous error on the speedo (assuming it's electrical, I don't even know on this car:D).

rednecks_r_us said:
When I did my custom ground wire kit my idle dropped by 100 RPMs
Then when I swaped ECU's My RPMs dropped by 200 all the way to red line.
My top speed went from a fuel cut off of 132 to 135.

130%20mph.jpg
 
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