motormount question

[Sveivo]

never feel dumb for asking a stupid question. just kidding. well just look at the mounts. all are easy to see except the back one. if they look in any way torn you need new mounts. if you drive standard and your shifter bounces you need new mounts. if you drive standard and when you shift and evryone takes bow you need new mounts. but the easiest ay to tell is just to look at them. oh yea if they're stock you need new mounts.

LOL. Good job.

i looked at the awr on protegegarage


best suggestion on stiffness level?

for best launch, ride comfort/shift

would you want softer or stiffer?

Softer=more comfort.

Similarly, if you want best performance, go stiffer. But on a daily driven stock car, I wouldn't go overly stiff.

RR-Racing inserts are said to have the lowest levels of vibrations. When they break in, that is.

 

[Sveivo]

PS: I have RR-racing front and rear, and it's a decent compromise for me.

 

[thejetman]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123675693
i posted pics, answers, and a general idea of how to do it.,

 

[Sveivo]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123675693
i posted pics, answers, and a general idea of how to do it.,

(guitar)

 

[Cellerator]

I broke that same thing when cleaning the battery! I just drilled a hole in the strut bar bracket and put a bolt and nut there to secure the tie-down. I think the design really sucks.

Post about how you are going to fix yours. Here's how I fixed mine. I know it's really ghetto but it works. It's all I had at the time and I had to drive to the airport (loser)

LOL, it's all good because that's exactly what mine looks like except more ghetto. I just didn't care so I put the screw through the holes and stuck a nut on top of it.

 

[Sveivo]

LOL, it's all good because that's exactly what mine looks like except more ghetto. I just didn't care so I put the screw through the holes and stuck a nut on top of it.

Did you drill out the broken bolt/stud?

 

[Cellerator]

No, we didn't drill it out, we tried twisting it out and ended up breaking more of that bolt off. It's really a POS bolt that Mazda chose to use.

 

[Sveivo]

No, we didn't drill it out, we tried twisting it out and ended up breaking more of that bolt off. It's really a POS bolt that Mazda chose to use.

Oh, I get it, so you just lifted the bracket and put a bolt through the same hole?

It indeed is a POS. I was amazed how easy it was to break. (potkettle

 

[Cellerator]

Oh, I get it, so you just lifted the bracket and put a bolt through the same hole?

It indeed is a POS. I was amazed how easy it was to break. (potkettle

nope, we took off the bracket and redrilled our own holes through the bracket and through the tie-down and placed our own screws.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Here's the SLS side before it broke......http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/sls_011.jpg

Here's the SLS front. It never broke but someone else's did.......http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/sls_009.jpg

Don't have a pic of the RR inserts in the front mount. Do have a bargain for someone on the SLS front & side. I got the replacement bracket that broke on the side mount from them but am not going back with it. Other than the front inserts, my oems are just fine. I have sport auto daily driver so I don't need anything more than the front & I'm staying with my oem with rr inserts that have worked fine for years. PM if interested in SLSs, I'll post pics.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

Stiffness

So, I want to do my front mount ASAP because I was installing my new Simota Twin Charger today and noticed that my front mount is torn to shreds...big surprise. In any case, I have been doing some research, and I want to do the front mount, not just inserts, and I am looking to avoid vibration as much as possible. From what I understand, here are my options:

AWR
70 durometer
88 durometer
95 durometer

StreatUnit
62 durometer

SLS Performance
75 durometer

Does anyone have any suggestions with regard to stiffness...I drive aggressively but my P5 is lightly modded and will probably never be turboed...eventually headers, UDP, a few things like that. I am tempted to go with the AWR 70 duro or the StreatUnit 65 duro for the least vibration (I use A/C sometimes) but I want to see a real improvement. I know a lot of people like the SLS but I also know there have been some weld issues...thoughts?

 

[clicknext]

I'm using SLS and it feels just fine with AC on. Hopefully I didn't get one with welding issues? The SLS guys say that it only affected a limited number of mounts and the ones being sent out now shouldn't have that problem, though.

 

[Cellerator]

I got RR-Racing mounts and at first they was a slight vibration difference but after a couple days the only thing that's more apparent is the engine noise. It's a good buy from my standpoint and a very easy mod.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

I got RR-Racing mounts and at first they was a slight vibration difference but after a couple days the only thing that's more apparent is the engine noise. It's a good buy from my standpoint and a very easy mod.

Mounts or inserts? I thought they only did inserts...

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

Sorry, your sig answered my question...

 

[Tasty]

How much are stock motor mounts??

 

[808MP5]

How much are stock motor mounts??

from the dealership? probably more expensive than aftermarket motor mounts. why go stock? they suck and dont last for sh!t. my front and passenger side mount completely ripped in less than a year. the driver side mount is on its way out and i haven't even looked at the rear one yet. f*#k stock. seriously.