Motor sounds like the Mazdaspeed 3's when they have a bad VVT Actuator???

Whats up guys, this is the first time posting and I have searched for everything I can think of. A little while back my car started sounding like a diesel. I thought I trashed the motor but I was told it was the VVT Actuator. I looked at videos of the Mazdaspeed 3's that have a bad vvt actuator on youtube and it sounds the exact same but my ticks all the time. So I ordered one from a performance shop and the owner said it would fit my protege.

I have been a DSM guy so this is the first time tearing into a protege. I got the valve cover off and notice it had a timing belt not a chain. I was told the timing chain goes around the actuator. I am not sure what to do. I'm guessing our protege's do not have a vvt actuator. Any idea what is wrong with my motor?? Thanks so much for any help!!!
 
Well I guess I will say something. Sadly, I have no answers for you. Give the "experts" a little time to see your post/question.
 
there is no vvt actuator...if the "diesel" sound you are referring to is coming from the top end and you can pin point it to the cylinder head, it is most likely a valve train issue. Exactly what I could not tell you without the cylinder head being off, but being as you can get a remanufactured head for 300-350 shipped its easy enough to just replace the whole head. Are you sure it is definitely coming from the valve train? A spun rod bearing makes a knock that can sound like a diesel as well.
 
Thanks for the replies! I'm not 100% sure it is coming from the top end. I am leaning more and more towards the fact that it is probably a spun bearing.....ugh.. oh well. Thanks again guys (thumb)
 
The diesel sound you are referring to is most likely an exhaust leak. I know it doesn't make a lot of sense, but it is amazing what a tiny little crack does for sound suppression.
I drove my car for almost a year with the ticking thinking it was something in the valvetrain and even threw in some lucas oil s*** to try to quiet it up.

Someone finally told me to check my exhaust manifold bolts and sure enough one was broke and one was completely missing. I now have ARP studs but they still work themselves loose after 6 months or so. Loctite doesn't even seem to help.

Here's a video of mine when it sounded like a diesel truck.

 
I also have a missing bolt on my exhaust manifold, and my car makes that sound. Can you get the replacement bolts from somewhere like ACE Hardware? Or do you have to special order them. Been meaning to fix this for awhile. maybe ill finally take care of it this weekend if I can figure out where to get the bolts.
 
I got them at auto zone. Just make sure they are at least "automotive grade 8" or you will break em'
 
I ordered ARP exhaust manifold studs from Sam at Crossover Auto. My studs and hardware haven't backed out at all though after 30k miles, used red Loc-Tite.
 
Nah, I know it's not a exhaust leak. I gotta vid somewhere, i'll try to upload it.

**Sorry for the bad quality and wind noise**

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Gdaoc0rnFZ8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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I'm pretty sure it is a bad bearing and or rod. I have already started tearing it apart. I gotta question for anyone that has been into these motors. I was wanting to drop the pan and see the end caps and rods but there is a bottom piece of the block that is aluminum. Can you separate that piece from the rest of the block. I already took all the bolts out that I could find but I can't get it to separate. Any ideas?
 
Rod bearing if its coming from the bottom end. Bad valve train if its coming from the top. Do not run that motor anymore unless you want to by a new rod and piston.
 
I'm pretty sure it is a bad bearing and or rod. I have already started tearing it apart. I gotta question for anyone that has been into these motors. I was wanting to drop the pan and see the end caps and rods but there is a bottom piece of the block that is aluminum. Can you separate that piece from the rest of the block. I already took all the bolts out that I could find but I can't get it to separate. Any ideas?
That's the Main Bearing Support Plate, sometimes called a Windage Tray. Yes it can be removed from the block however I believe two bolts aren't accessible without drilling holes in or pulling the trans.
 
Can someone post the size of the bolts for the stock mani, if they just happen to know it. Was gonna just pull one once I got to the place to buy them, but will be a few days before I go get them, so figured I would just ask here to see if anyone knew.
 
I'm pretty sure it is a bad bearing and or rod. I have already started tearing it apart. I gotta question for anyone that has been into these motors. I was wanting to drop the pan and see the end caps and rods but there is a bottom piece of the block that is aluminum. Can you separate that piece from the rest of the block. I already took all the bolts out that I could find but I can't get it to separate. Any ideas?

That's the Main Bearing Support Plate, sometimes called a Windage Tray. Yes it can be removed from the block however I believe two bolts aren't accessible without drilling holes in or pulling the trans.

sounds like rod knock. or even worse one of the rods bent and the piston is slapping the crank. Thats what happened to me.

and yeah what hornsfan said, to get to the rod caps u have to take the upper oil pan(MBSP) out, there are 2 10 mm bolts behind the flywheel that screw into the rear main seal bracket. yes u can drill thru the mbsp to get to them, but its better to drill the required holes after u know where to aim(by that i mean after u take it off already). so i would suggest just man up and drop the tranny, pressure plate and flywheel.
 
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