motor mount

[elieleb1303]

ok, so after reading through every single page of every single thread that i was able to find about motor mounts on the ms6, im still confused on which to get.
ive heard the same things over and over, they cause vibrations but not enough to annoy anyone, and the vibrations go away anyways past idle. i A/C so im not worried bout vibrations while its on.

i guess my question is which one is really the best to get?! out of all the threads, it seems as tho they all perform the same, so is it best to go with the AWR since its the cheapest? but then again, i read bout meltin issues, fitment issues, and having to remove stock tabs to get it to fit. also, i read that its welded together, and that sorta worries me.

then there is the street unit and cp-e, which are pretty much identical. i guess i dont understand the difference in prices. i would really appreciate if i can get some facts on all these three to help me make up my mind on which to get. undoubtedly theyre all great products, but i would like to hear once and for all what everyone recommends.

 

[superskaterxes]

street unit uses a 65 and 90 durometer URATHANE for thier mounts. CPE uses a high temp rubber which is 65 durometer. the 90 duro is way too hard and causes lots of vibrations and the AWR is mostly meant for race applications as it has the worst vibration out of all of them. i bought the CPE because CPE is the greatest company ive ever dealt with and they do the most R&D on their products. not to mention its only 20 bucks more.

 

[FORZDA 1]

....i guess my question is which one is really the best to get?! ....i would like to hear once and for all what everyone recommends.

Well, only YOU can decide for your own reasons. Do you know why you want/need a new MM? Just buy one and install it and you'll know, then you can post your impressions. Now, FWIW the SU version is the "best", regardless of price. It uses a larger cross-section for the aluminum "dogbone" and the durometer compromise is as good as it gets, perfect. IF you or your favorite monkey install it properly, the vibs are essentially no worse than OEM. Now, the TT front MM will definitely add some vibes at idle, just off idle, and with AC on at idle. If you're needing some help to hold the motor in place a bit better to improve feel and help stabilize the driveline, it takes both motor mounts, plus the rear diff mounts.

 

[elieleb1303]

interesting. all the thread i read said the awr doesnt really vibrate as much as everyone says but now u say it vibrates the most? and its pretty much race application only? guess that rules that one out..

so i guess its between su and cp-e...any more info?

 

[CalgaryMS6]

I went with AWR. I first tried the 88dur because I wanted the best performance I could get. They claim the vibrations aren't that bad. Well "not that bad" was too annoying for me being my daily driver. So I purchased the 70dur. I've had it installed for over 15 thousand kms and am extremely happy with the product. It has virtually eliminated all wheel hop and the vibrations are essentially non existant until it drops below 1k rpm at which point it is noticeable but not obnoxious.

 

[elieleb1303]

what i dont get is if the awr is just as good if not better than the other two, y is it so cheap?

 

[elieleb1303]

anyone else wanna chime in? i think im slowly navigating away from the awr only cause i guess its more for racing applications. and it doesnt look stock at all so im worried bout warranty issues. and i dont like the idea that the fitment isnt exactly the best.

so between cp-e and su...what u guys think?

 

[elieleb1303]

well, i ordered the su mount. i did some more research and from what i gathered the su is in between the cpe and awr, so i figured it would fit what i was looking for. waitin for it to be shipped. i cant wait to throw it on. im also hopin to find time to get to the dealership for the clutch tsb, and that combined wit the motor mount im hoping with smooth everything out very nicely

 

[corsa]

Just installed the AWR "race" rear motor mt and I am still in total awe of the improvement. I used Rhino Ramps and after removing the splash shield I wedged a LONG 3/8 socket extension in the motor by the stock mt and pushed forward and backward on it and was flat stunned at how far the motor moved!!!! Extend that "lever" (read motor) to the top of the motor and we are talking 4-5 inches!!! I don't care how much you're concerned about any possible increase in vibration.......the freakin motor is floppin around like a dying carp!!!! Once the stock mt was off I could move the motor with my fingers till it hit the radiator. The new mt was a breeze to install. 2 mins to remove the old on, chisel off the locater tabs and file the spot welds flat....oohhh 5 whole minutes!! Bolt up the new mt and TORQUE it down. Any bolt line-up issues just nudge the mtr with a socket extension or long screwdriver. FINGER PRESSURE IS ALL IT TAKES!!! This is a total 25min install including beer!! You will not believe how much of a difference this one mod will make. I took it out and was very pleased to say the least. 1st-2nd shift was just like my old E30 M3 dogleg CR box....click-click!! No dreaded 2nd-3rd missed shifts!
OK so now I install the TWM stage 1 short shifter w/bushings. 50-60 min total job and only because you need to be careful with your cheery center console pieces. You couldn't compare/defend the old shifter even if you were the engineer who designed the OEM unit on a napkin! The best example I can use to compare the OEM shifter to is the '89 Ford SHO with the clothes line cable shifter. MAYBE you'll find the gear you think you want!
With the TWM SS it's like full power up shifts on a hyabussa! Any of you 2 wheel monkeys out there will understand.....snick-snick. Dead bang positive...almost intuitive!!
I have the TT rear diff frt mt with the rear mt bushings sitting on my kitchen table waiting to do next I WILL get the TT frt eng mt as soon as the eagle flies!!
Listen....stop your whining, hedging, stressing, handwringing, yadda yadda yadda!! Just shut up & get which ever rear eng mt that speaks to your special aesthetic preferences, bolt it on and gloat!!

 

[elieleb1303]

put in the su mount today. toook wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy longer than it was supposed to.
i mean wayyyy tooooo damn long.
but, id say it was def worth it. im gonna hopefully try to adjust my clutch later this week, hopefully itll make everything better.

but about the mount, i ran into huge problems lining everything up, even using a jack to hold the engine. it took a ridiculously long amount of time to get it to work. but in the end, i can already notice the difference. i feel better response, smoother shifts, and no more thud! i do feel lots of vibration at idle though, but i dont mind it too much. id rather have more vibration and less engine movement anyway. and once it all settles in i think the vibration will decrease.

 

[OJ Bartley]

elieleb1303, which did you order, the 65 or the 90 durometer? I think I'd like to get something around the 65/70 ones if there's not too much additional vibration.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

65 is street use, 90 is race, that is the difference. SU has dif Dur, and TRZ has dif Dur but CPE does not.

 

[elieleb1303]

elieleb1303, which did you order, the 65 or the 90 durometer? I think I'd like to get something around the 65/70 ones if there's not too much additional vibration.

i ended up gettin the 65 durometer from su. the vibration really isnt too bad unless the a/c is on and ur idling. other than that, its barely noticeable