Me Vs Congressional motor of Mazda

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*Dat* was like a sick story yo! Sorry, couldn't resist. You know, the word "that" has only one more letter than "dat". It's really not dat, I mean that hard to use. (cabpatch)

Anyway, enough busting your chops about your grammar.

Yeah, I agree that if you drove a screw blindly through the bottom of the car into an EVAP line, you're up Poop's Creek without a paddle. I would want to see it myself also because I find it hard to believe the dealer found something so small an isolated, but maybe they did. If that's the case, tell them you'll take the car back and get it fixed by someone else. Find yourself a factory service manual online and get someone to help you fix it yourself. Did you just recently install this amp?

I would not expect to get very far trying to fight it if in fact it was your fault. I mean why should Mazda pay for your "screw" up? You say it was only a 1 inch screw, but do you know how thick the sheet metal is on cars these days? They don't build them like they used to in the 60's and 70's. Cars these days are like friggin soda cans. I'd be willing to bet the metal on the bottom of the car is less than 1/8" thick. It really doesn't provide much, if any structural rigidity in that area.
 
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*Dat* was like a sick story yo! Sorry, couldn't resist. You know, the word "that" has only one more letter than "dat". It's really not dat, I mean that hard to use

I was just going to post this LOL
 
dude the grammar police is out and some of our brilliant members on this forum cant take it, forget the haters bro. where are you located? get your car out of that dealer as of yesterday, major b.s no way in hell that the screw had anything to do with your evap leak. if you are in florida mention to them that you are going to call fred or bob, both are the regional representatives in florida for mazda.
 
I feel sorrry for you, but I don't think the dealership is making up the whole screw thing. You can go look for yourself, but that is something far to specific for them to be making up. The fact that they couldn't find the problem quickly is what makes me think they are NOT making it up. About all the other work they did, they need to pay for that because that had nothing to do with your evap leak.
 
Well, IMO (not bashing you) is that if you haven't even graduated high school, then its best you take a parent or someone else in who can work with the service manager. I would also request to see the bottom of the car where your screw had come threw the floor and punctured the line. Then I would also want to see the existing line (since they stated they replaced it). If indeed your service department is telling the truth then I believe you are 100% liable for those costs and labor. At that point try to negotiate some of the labor costs down to save some money, pay the dealer, and learn your lesson.
 
actually, i agree he should pay for it, he should pay for the Hose he ****** up, and the labor it cost to change, which should be about an hour? He shouldn't have to pay the dealer for there stupidity of not being able to find it. how come they didnt see it till AFTER they changed all the other parts? how come they didnt smoke that b**** out and find were it was? no reason for him to pay for parts that the dealer decided to change because they couldn't find the real issue. fight it, that or tell em to change back to all the old s*** and kiss your ass. Better yet if you finance through them, tell em to keep the POS and dnt pay for it.

You could take my route and just smash the car into their new cars on the lot, im just waiting for my day to come around when i snap :)
 
so you drilled holes into the body of your car to mount an amp and apparently hit some line that most likely runs to the fuel tank? If thats the case then sorry, it shouldnt be covered under warranty.
 
yeah, because those are all smart decisions. diagnosing a problem on a car is no easy feat. Its not like they have some tool that says "hey! the problem is here!" They have to start at the easy s*** and work down from there...its like anything else....and if his error caused the problem initially then he should pay for it all...sorry.

but, before you pay for anything, make them SHOW YOU what they say caused the problem.
actually, i agree he should pay for it, he should pay for the Hose he ****** up, and the labor it cost to change, which should be about an hour? He shouldn't have to pay the dealer for there stupidity of not being able to find it. how come they didnt see it till AFTER they changed all the other parts? how come they didnt smoke that b**** out and find were it was? no reason for him to pay for parts that the dealer decided to change because they couldn't find the real issue. fight it, that or tell em to change back to all the old s*** and kiss your ass. Better yet if you finance through them, tell em to keep the POS and dnt pay for it.

You could take my route and just smash the car into their new cars on the lot, im just waiting for my day to come around when i snap :)
 
If the dealer is correct about what happened, I think they are right in not covering that specific area under warranty.

What I would do in this case is approach them very calmly and collected, and attempt to work out something more reasonable than 1700 ******* dollars. That is complete crap.

I could see it being maybe $500 or even $800. But $1700 is just them trying to bend you over.
 
I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it already, but just to inform you..

Any time a dealership has a vehicle in for warranty work and they find that the problem has been caused by something the owner has done (voiding the warranty) they are supposed to ASK you if you want to proceed and pay for the charges. You should have been charged for the work up untill the point that they found what was wrong, and then asked if you wanted to pay for them to fix it.

-I had an aftermarket LED in my map light, it fried and had my car acting funny. I took it in for warranty work, they found out what was wrong, asked me if I wanted them to fix (It was 300$-I said No) and then I just paid for the diagnostic fee, which was like 105$
 
If you damaged something you're going to pay. As it's been said though, just because they threw parts at the problem you shouldn't have to pay for them.
 
First off, there are at least one or two evap emissions vent hoses that run between the engine and the fuel tank. The OP said he mounted an amp using screws that were "only"(!) 1" long so it's almost certain that the screws went all the way through the floorboard-- and thus could easily have nicked or punctured a vent hose if one was in the vicinity. That said, I'd still want to see proof of the damage first-hand.
 
just came back from the dealer. saw the damage was made by myself. so i talk to the manager to c if i can lower the charger, they did lowering the charge down to $1000 with the EVAP pipe fixed(thats about $500with the pipe replaced and labor). so basically they r trying to charger me another $500 for diagnose the problem... i had realized even though is my fault that mazda have the right to void my warranty. but $500 for diagnose?? plus they wont cover the rental thats about another $800. the total will be $1300. in my situation that i left my car in the dealershop for 3 weeks and i ended up never got the problem fixed and i have to pay $1300 for all this BS............i dont feel comfortable right now. if i dont have any issue with the rental i probably would pay that $500 for diagnose or maybe i can lower it more. too many bills needs to pay in these days. im really out of my $......wish the $ would fall from the sky so i can catch it as much as i can....lol.!!!
 
How long did it take them to diagnose? I'm almost inclined to agree with them on charging the $1000 total if it took a great deal of their time and it ended up being your fault.

But, I would kindly state that you think $500 seems fair and find $1000 unacceptable and see where it goes from there.
 
they said they spended 13 hr on it just to diagnose. my car was in the shop for 3 weeks. if they did spended 13 hr on it then how come it took them 3 weeks???it could be done within a week..right??now im have to facing the payment for the rental thats the only thing that really matter to me...
 
your car is not the only car they had to work on i imagine and given that the techs probably had other cars that they could determine the problem on and fix and make their money on yours was put on the back burner. Thats how it works, sorry. they arent going to sit there day and night trying to track down the issue when there's other cars rolling in w/ easier issues.
they said they spended 13 hr on it just to diagnose. my car was in the shop for 3 weeks. if they did spended 13 hr on it then how come it took them 3 weeks???it could be done within a week..right??now im have to facing the payment for the rental thats the only thing that really matter to me...
 
Charges to diagnose seem fair. You got the short end of the stick for the rental, but oh well, life's not fair. Do you have rental reimbursement as part of your car insurance? How come the dealer didn't offer a loaner while your car was there for warranty work (at least initially)?

Cars aren't cheap.
 
Dat shet es hart two reed.

You don't have to finish school to stop using Dat in then place of that.
 
Sounds like they did give him a loaner but once they come to the conclusion the work isn't warrantied then they aren't paying for the rental either.
Charges to diagnose seem fair. You got the short end of the stick for the rental, but oh well, life's not fair. Do you have rental reimbursement as part of your car insurance? How come the dealer didn't offer a loaner while your car was there for warranty work (at least initially)?

Cars aren't cheap.
 
You ran a 1" screw into 1/32" sheet metal?! Sounds like someone shoulda read the "Manual of Common Sense" to you. The point of make 'em show you the exact problem is valid, though.
 
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