Mazda2 Rear Toe Adjustment?

Mazdafreak67

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'06 Mazda MX-5, 6-spd
Has anyone checked if the rear toe can be adjusted on the Mazda 2? Thought it might be similar to the 3, but the rear suspension geometry is completely different. Didn't see any adjustment bolts.
 
This is totally a guess.

I believe (from drawings I've seen on parts sites) that the rear hubs bolt to the beam rear suspension with 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern. That lends itself to shimming and eventually someone will make shims for alignment shops.

Please, someone correct me if I'm wrong.......

John
 
Good find ! ! !

SPC makes a very similar product which gets routinely used by alignment shops. They just don't have one for M2's as far as I know.

The Demon Tweeks version should work well.
 
This is totally a guess.

I believe (from drawings I've seen on parts sites) that the rear hubs bolt to the beam rear suspension with 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern. That lends itself to shimming and eventually someone will make shims for alignment shops.

Please, someone correct me if I'm wrong.......

John

Yeah John, that's pretty much how it bolts up. I know because I've taken it apart.. I tried to do some DIY Camber shims for my car, using washers, and it's just threw my TC and ABS all out of whack. I honestly don't know why.. hopefully someone has more info
 
Hi Alex,

Did the wiring for the ABS/traction control sensors get damaged by any chance?

Broken, unplugged, or pulled out of the sensors?

I had my problems in the front due to suspension mods and wider wheels. Splicing and soldering fixed them.

John
 
Nope, because once I returned back to stock (no washers), re-tightening the bracket that holds the sensors to the rear stub axle/bearing assy. (as a precaution, just in case.. but I can't say that was what was wrong in the first place) , it went back to working properly.

To be honest, I was kind of rushed since I have a busy schedule, and can't fit in too much time to work on my car. When I get a free day, I want to try again, but take my time this time, and try a few different things.
 
Unfortunately you guys will most likely never get alignment adjustment in the rear :(. ABS sensor on the 2's are pointing at the wheels and the sensor wheel is located on the back face of the bearing. The sensor shares a hole with the four hub bolts. Adding camber or toe moves the sensor wheel closer or farther from the sensor its self. causing bad reading and thus ABS/TC lights.

Capture-8_zpse3aec9ea.jpg
 
I knew it was the sensor that was misaligned, since I kicked out the bottom. With saying that, I wonder how, or if, the Thai/Indo Mz2's have ABS/TC.. I know guys there have used shims or washers to gain negative camber in the rear.

Also, in regards to no toe adjustment, I know that the B-Spec Mz2's have adjustable toe in the rear (with the specific Toe adjustment bar/Sway bar that comes with the B-Spec kit)... IIRC.

I have some pics from my install of the washers.. I should post them up. Is there no way to trick the sensor, or any way to gain negative camber in the rear without having ABS/TC go bat-s*** crazy?
 
You may be able to shim the sensor, but thatll only work for camber.

Toe bar is pretty limited as far as adjustments go. Iv seen VW's with them and you can sometimes end up having .2* on one side and zero on the other.
 
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I'm down to try it out.. I've been wanting to take a look down there anyway, but school/work has been keeping me busy.

I guess it's good to hear on-hand experience about the bar
 
I wonder if you can use the camber wedges still and keep the ABS sensor close enough to not freak out. I would be down for some negative camber in the rear suspension. When you get off the track the inside quarter of the tires see no wear.

-Derrick
 
Did anything else come of this?

VW's have to shim their ABS sensors too?
But has anyone with a 2 done this?
 
After lowering my rear toe got a little messed up, as planned, but how bad for tire wear is rear toe? My front gets zero'd out no problem, so those tires should be fine but I'm a little worried about the rear tire wear pattern. After about 5k miles things are still looking pretty good however.
 
Had my car on the rack earlier this week and found a way to even out the rear toe. You loosen up the rear trailing arm bolts on the side furthest away from zero and let the rear beam relax. If you want, there's enough play in the bushings mounts to move the beam around to get it even.

Mines at 1/4" out now. With the Tri point rear bar. I had it to zero just moving around the the beam with the bar disconnected.
 
Seems interesting. I will try to loosen mine and see if it shifts. Then later this week I can check the alignment again. It still seems strange to me that it would change that much. The bushings are pretty soft so I figure that if the bar wanted to move slightly it could easily do it by just shifting in the soft bushings. Not saying you are wrong, just seems too easy.
 
So I just had a moment and tried this. I took measurements on the back of the arms of the torsion beam as well as the front and I got 0 change. That is what I thought especially with how it is mounted. The single bolt going through the middle doesn't really allow for the torsion beam to really move at all. You need to force it with the tri-point bar to make it happen.
 
So I just had a moment and tried this. I took measurements on the back of the arms of the torsion beam as well as the front and I got 0 change. That is what I thought especially with how it is mounted. The single bolt going through the middle doesn't really allow for the torsion beam to really move at all. You need to force it with the tri-point bar to make it happen.

We ran into the same thing on our car.

-Derrick
 
You can reposition the bushings to even out the toe withoutthe tri point bar. You won't be able to reduce or increase the toe value, but can share the value evenly side to side by loosening and repositioning the beam. Yes you will have to pry on the bushings to get them to move around.
 
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