Mazda Remote Start?

If a wire is one color at one point in the car, does it change color at a different point? Like the neutral safety wire, if it is black/orange in one place, if I found the black/orange wire someplace else, can I be sure it is the same wire?
 
PLEASE!!!

I can not find the tach wire for my life. I am not getting a good reading on any wire I test. Can someone tell me what to do to find it. I have a meter set on AC current and I tested black/blue wire coming from the fuel injector and every wire behind the cluster. I read I should be getting 1v-6v.

PLEASE PLEASE HELP!

thank you, krs.
 
krstofer said:
PLEASE!!!

I can not find the tach wire for my life. I am not getting a good reading on any wire I test. Can someone tell me what to do to find it. I have a meter set on AC current and I tested black/blue wire coming from the fuel injector and every wire behind the cluster. I read I should be getting 1v-6v.

PLEASE PLEASE HELP!

thank you, krs.

As far as I know, the only thing that generates AC current in an automobile is a power inverter or a alternator with bad diodes. A tachometer signal should be a DC power source.

To answer your previous question: No, wire colors do not always stay the same throughout a circuit. They can change colors at connectors or components.
 
No, the tach is AC current. It was like that for my civic and the same on the mazda, I just have to get it from the fuel injector. which means running a wire through the firewall, which is always a pain in the a$$.
 
Now, I know for a fact that fuel injectors run on 12 VDC. How are you gonna pull AC current from a DC source? (scratch)
 
xenon929 said:
I installed the compustar alarm w/ remote start on my Manual 3 sedan and I have had a perfect outcome and experience. For the key sensor issue, you just have to get a bypass unit that's available from bypasskits.com for about $90.00 + - Here's a few pics of mine, you can see them on this page:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552940

It was a bit of a nightmare to install because there are a million wires for this alarm for all the different set ups you can do to it. But in any case, give the alarm a look over, it's great and has about a mile and a half range (when clear)

Good luck!
(yes)

(jacked) what mods did you have when you did that dyno?
 
goldwing2000 said:
Now, I know for a fact that fuel injectors run on 12 VDC. How are you gonna pull AC current from a DC source? (scratch)


You are correct sir... You will notice however that I didn't say that the injectors are recieving an AC signal, only that you will want your meter set on AC to test for the correct wire. The injectors pulse DC voltage so fast that at the relativly slow refresh rates of the average DMM you wont get any kind of accurate reading, but by setting your DMM to AC you will alteast get an averaged value that you can use to make sure you have the correct wire.

The remote start doesn't need a true tach source, it's just looking for something "similar" to a tach signal so it can verify that the engine is still running after it has stopped cranking. That is why you have to program your Tach "value" to your remote start--if had a true tach input it would know that the car was still running without you having to give it any extra info.
 
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That makes sense.

I didn't read your post on the subject, I was only replying to krstofer's posts about looking for AC current.


I'm wondering something else, now. Since most (all?) coils and injectors use a constant power and a switched ground, will that be a sufficient signal for the remote start module?
 
Oh, I was under the impression that the current was AC. Ok, but what about the Tach? Is that pulsing DC also?

I also thought that, since the directions said 1v-6v that it had to be that much. Does the current from the fuel injector increase when the rpm goes up? I think the answer is yes, but I want to make sure.
 
All those looking for remote start, Buy my Clifford Matrix RS 3 and get a deal. :D

If the 3 uses the immobolizer you can get a bypass module from any alarm shop for a reasonable price. Also a if you have two keys to your vehicle there is a how-to on this forum for programming the third one needed for the immobolizer bypass.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119559&highlight=clifford+matrix
 
Mazda Remote

Got an aftermarket Autostart remote (AS-1755), installed by the dealer.
Cheaper than the Mazda unit, with all the features, and a lifetime warranty.
Great feature for 'cold' winter, or 'hot' summer starts ! (flash)
 
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