I've checked with cost between Megan Racing coils vs H & R , and MR is $100 less compared to HR base on E bay pricing . I just spent on repairs on replacement on rear links , replacement for the left lower arm and sway bar bushings. (Wear & tear) . My next project is to put Drag dr33 rims 17x 7.5 and contemplating on lowering the M5 . I'm concern with drivability issues as a daily drive as oppose to handling . My car is already riding on a set of KYB gas struts & shocks . I've spoken with my mechanic & was told the relationship between the height of the struts as oppose to the height of the springs this would tell the difference in the ride quality and handling. Any feedbacks and issues concerning aftermarket suspension upgrades would be very helpful in my next project. Thanks Guys !
Lowering kit for Mazda 5 , Megan racing vs H & R springs pros & cons ?
- Thread starter Mawie
- Start date
I haven't tried the Megans but I do have the h&r springs installed. Daily driving is fine. I wouldn't mind if the rid was a little stiffer. The family doesn't complain. There is a little bit of a break in period where the springs soften up a little bit. I'm running 215 45 18's and just a little rub every now and then going around a corner hitting a bump. You should be fine with the 17's.
- :
- 2009 Mazda 5 Touring & 2012 MS3
Coilovers allow you more flexibility in ride height, obviously, but if she's too harsh, you can also raise her up for comfort. I just finished up a BC coilover install on my van and initially i had her sitting low and mean. That got old fast as it was a harsh, bouncy ride. So i raised her up - twice before i settled on a height that was a good compromise between handling, looks, and comfort. I'm running oem Gen2 MS3 wheels (18x7.5) with 225-40/18s and no rub.
The only issues I'm having is getting the camber plates tight enough to stop very mild rattling I'm experiencing. But if you use OEM mounts with the MRs you won't have to deal with that.
Have you looked into BC coilovers? I've never owned Megan so can't comment on them. I will say the FAQ on their site is excellent though! Helped me deal with post install issues with my BCs.
Also, depending on how low you go, you may need adjustable control arm for the rear camber set up. I went with SPC but any arm that fits the 3 will fit us without issue. A b**** to install the driver side though...
The only issues I'm having is getting the camber plates tight enough to stop very mild rattling I'm experiencing. But if you use OEM mounts with the MRs you won't have to deal with that.
Have you looked into BC coilovers? I've never owned Megan so can't comment on them. I will say the FAQ on their site is excellent though! Helped me deal with post install issues with my BCs.
Also, depending on how low you go, you may need adjustable control arm for the rear camber set up. I went with SPC but any arm that fits the 3 will fit us without issue. A b**** to install the driver side though...
Megan, made in China. Known as lowest of the low. They often use the same factories as BC Racing. (This verifiable via Import data from US Census Bureau). Having dealt with 4 auto parts factories directly in the cities of Hangzhou, Guangdong, Ningbo, etc. and losing thousands during the last 2 years, I have a tendency to go with H&R and Koni, if avail.
I don't mind using Chinese-made parts in non-essential systems (A/C, stereo, lighbulbs, etc.), but when it comes to drivetrain parts that can cause you to crash and kill people/yourself... YMMV.
I don't mind using Chinese-made parts in non-essential systems (A/C, stereo, lighbulbs, etc.), but when it comes to drivetrain parts that can cause you to crash and kill people/yourself... YMMV.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Not a knock against Megans (no personal experience) but I would highly recommend reconsidering letting $100 affect your purchasing decision. You drive the car day in/out. Are you really willing to sacrifice long term use (how ever long you plan to keep the car) over $100 -REALLY!? Just speaking in general terms.
I would also advise reconsider Drag rims and look for a set of used quality rims from a reputable make. These knock off look great but are more likely to bend/crack on you. A friend bought a new set w/ new tires and the first pot hole (not even that big/impact per his claims) = two bent rims... Always go with forged > cast rims.
and read below and you will know more than your mechanic regarding ride comfort.
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html
I would also advise reconsider Drag rims and look for a set of used quality rims from a reputable make. These knock off look great but are more likely to bend/crack on you. A friend bought a new set w/ new tires and the first pot hole (not even that big/impact per his claims) = two bent rims... Always go with forged > cast rims.
and read below and you will know more than your mechanic regarding ride comfort.
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html
Last edited:
- :
- 2009 Mazda 5 Touring & 2012 MS3
I didn't want to bash MR but since that door has opened...they're ranked with the Racelands and K-sports of the world. And now you say MR uses the same factories as BC?! Verifiable huh? Not what i wanted to hear. While i am having some issues with my new BCs, i have to defend my purchase just a bit. The BC build quality appears excellent. I've held cheap s*** coils and BCs aren't it. But only time will tell. I did a bit of googling and found a thread that directly compares MR to BC.
I apologize if there's a rule against posting links to other forums but this thread is relevant...and made me feel a little better about my coils lol
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1909654
Forged also cost 2 - 3 times more than a comparable cast wheel. No one here is calling HRE, DPE, or iForged for wheels. I had a set of SSRs which they call "Semi-forged" and even they were pricey bastids. They did take a beating, as expected, but our budgets have the final say and i was single back then. For my van, I would've loved to buy DPEs and use Bilstein PSS10s for coils but the harsh reality is that soccer dads have to settle. I mean, MS3 OEMs i just bought are cast. Yes the same wheels on my speed are bent but only two of them! lol
DRAG isn't, by any means, a top deck cast wheel. I agree you should reconsider the ricers special. I've run cast Konigs and TSWs that survived NYC streets for years. Buuut I also had two BBSs completely crack and those are supposed to be the "superior" cast wheels. But i have also read some real horror stories of HRE and DPEs failing...horribly. A few years back the forums were LIT with posts about forged HREs being banned by a ton of racing orgs. In the end, i've always hated shopping wheels cause I've never been able to afford a forged multi-piece wheel and was discouraged by how difficult it can be to find a quality cast wheel. But in the all my years modding, I've learned that a cast wheel isn't guaranteed to bend and forged isn't guaranteed not to. In the end, buy a well known brand at a moderate cost and watch out for those pot holes! Or just do what i do know, buy the OEM step up knowing that i can always jump on a forum and find a replacement for cheap
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Good points. The best cast is likely better than the worst forge. There will always be tiers among everything but conditions need to be mentioned when discussing damaged rims (low profile tries, overinflate, type of impact). Apples to apples, forged is always better than cast. If the conditions cracked forged rims (assuming decent rims), IMO, it would likely cause more catastrophic damage to an equal set of cast rims. Just speaking logically about how the metal is formed in the two processes.Forged also cost 2 - 3 times more than a comparable cast wheel. No one here is calling HRE, DPE, or iForged for wheels. I had a set of SSRs which they call "Semi-forged" and even they were pricey bastids. They did take a beating, as expected, but our budgets have the final say and i was single back then. For my van, I would've loved to buy DPEs and use Bilstein PSS10s for coils but the harsh reality is that soccer dads have to settle. I mean, MS3 OEMs i just bought are cast. Yes the same wheels on my speed are bent but only two of them! lol
DRAG isn't, by any means, a top deck cast wheel. I agree you should reconsider the ricers special. I've run cast Konigs and TSWs that survived NYC streets for years. Buuut I also had two BBSs completely crack and those are supposed to be the "superior" cast wheels. But i have also read some real horror stories of HRE and DPEs failing...horribly. A few years back the forums were LIT with posts about forged HREs being banned by a ton of racing orgs. In the end, i've always hated shopping wheels cause I've never been able to afford a forged multi-piece wheel and was discouraged by how difficult it can be to find a quality cast wheel. But in the all my years modding, I've learned that a cast wheel isn't guaranteed to bend and forged isn't guaranteed not to. In the end, buy a well known brand at a moderate cost and watch out for those pot holes! Or just do what i do know, buy the OEM step up knowing that i can always jump on a forum and find a replacement for cheap
My key message was “look for a set of used quality rims from a reputable make” b/c on the resale market, values are comparable (not that you’d ever want a used set of Drag, that’d be a drag if you did
). Any reputable used rim (not damaged) is better than a set of new Drag. The replica brands also have a crappy top coat and do not endure elements well and become used very quickly. Unnecessary weight is also my concern. Up-size/up-class OEM rims are actually a very smart and good buy. They are likely to have a good coat, durable enough (they are held to a standard, now simply how pretty they look), and are likely to have matching center bore diameters of the bat.
Speaking of which, both HRE and BBS are my two fav rims
. This reminds me to fix a set of bent BBS RK1 (hit pot hole hard) that’s been lying around for years… My brother cracked two of my loaner Enkei RS7. I want to use the RK1 on the Mz5 but since I rarely drive the car, I’m not as motivated. Hopefully this summer I will do something with them.
Last edited:
