Now I really need help had these problems prior to the codes video) car bucked started idling rough was told could be pistons again or rods went so said **** it it had 114,000 miles so we got a brand new off the line engine installed didn’t leave the shop and all the codes hit tried to clear them wouldn’t clear did the whole battery disconnect and still nothing checked the fuse nada to me everything is pointing to the ecm but I’ve only ever had to mess with Tcm and that’s caz Mazda puts them where they cook on the 3 s but any and all suggestions on what could throw all these codes and when on runs rich yet says low oil pressure with full new oil.
Lots of errors and issues after new engine (2020 CX-5)
- Thread starter Paimoo
- Start date
2
200955
If the new engine is identical to the old and you installed it as a complete long block, moving all sensors etc over, there might be an issue with registration of the old modules to the new installation. I would assume if this was done at a dealer this process would have been done or at the least verified and that the ECM could see and communicate with all modules and sensors. Some reprograming of the ECM may be required. Was this a DIY installation or independent shop? Was any of the wiring possibly damaged during installation or perhaps sensors mishandled. You really need the description for all the codes as I suspect one error is responsible for may others. That's a lot of codes. There has to be a lack of circuit continuity somewhere - connector or pins and especially grounds. A good "advanced" bidirectional scanner would be very helpful in this situation. I will look up some of the codes, their meanings and errors and get back to you.
2
200955
For all codes that have "P" designation, open Google and in search enter:
"2020 Mazda CX 5 diagnostic code Pxxxx" ( where x's are the code numbers ) and hit enter.
I found all of your codes, their meaning but not necessarily their fix. P061B is of interest, and, check that you plugged in the oil pressure sensor (P0522 and P0524) connector and it is the right one. The stated EVAP code P0455 would indicate a leak which is usually the solenoid valve stuck open but may well be a leak in the line or connector at the manifold. Do look for pinched or damaged wires.
"2020 Mazda CX 5 diagnostic code Pxxxx" ( where x's are the code numbers ) and hit enter.
I found all of your codes, their meaning but not necessarily their fix. P061B is of interest, and, check that you plugged in the oil pressure sensor (P0522 and P0524) connector and it is the right one. The stated EVAP code P0455 would indicate a leak which is usually the solenoid valve stuck open but may well be a leak in the line or connector at the manifold. Do look for pinched or damaged wires.
O I did all that
P0455 was prior to engine swap and stayed after new engine was installed all codes can not be cleared for some reason I have an appointment with Mazda for an electrical diagnostic just to be safe on pos ground issue broken wire or fried computer
2
200955
P0455 is an easy fix that you can check and correct yourself. The vent valve is on top the canister (or side depending on year) and is easily removed. Once removed, try blowing through it - if that's possible, it's crap as the normal state is closed. If you had a bidirectional scanner you can manually activate/deactivate the solenoid and listen for a click but that is no indication if it's actually seating or not. At the least take a visual for a hose that's come off or damaged or cracked or possibly kinked.
The hoses a generally a slip fit without clamps. The other area to check is the gas cap for leakage to atmosphere. I wouldn't put to much faith in after-market universal gas caps, period.I can almost guaranty that by time the dealer has finished fixing this code, you could have bought your own leak detecting smoke machine and fixed it yourself with enough money left over to buy a bottle or two of "Jack".
7eregrine
The man, the myth, the legend
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- Land of Cleve
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- 2016.5 CX5
Code reader.
2
200955
I think that a lot of the issues are electrical related or so they appear. At first glance of the codes, one is your IAT ( P0098 intake air temp that governs your fuel trims) the other P0108 is your MAP sensor that indicates intake manifold pressure. Are you sure your manifold gaskets are sealing? If the engine actually runs now, you can spray a bit of brake cleaner with a straw around the spots where the manifold meets the head. If the engine changes in sound or speed, you have a leaky gasket. I'm still leaning towards damaged wires or connectors especially if you didn't have these codes prior to the engine swap. You could replace these two sensors but if this is caused by faulty wiring, replacement will fix nothing. Does the engine actually run at present?
