Lost the battle with rust

sanblaster

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2009 CWP Mazda Axela Sport & 2006 Nissan 350z
After 11 years it finally beat me. Peeled my paint washing the car after work, now it is silver & black & rust? Suggestions? Touch up paint from Mazda, autozone, any sand mica guys know of a paint close to our paint scheme. This is just an short term fix obviously because it is an eye sore to me. :( The pics:

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geez Santos! that sucks mang...what did you use to wash yer car, an SOS pad?? j/k! You should be able to go to Lowes and give them the paint code off yer driver side door and they'll be able to mix it up and put it in a rattle can for ya (i think)
 
That's stinks man. At least at this point its minimal. Unfortunately the only way to get rid of cancer is to cut it out.

As far as a quick fix and a color match you can try www.paintscratch.com for colormatched paint.
 
I know whatcha mean mang....I doubt anyone would ever notice but the fact that its there and you are aware drives you nuts..I feel that way about my door dings...BAH!
 
Yeah it is bothering the hell out of me. I talked to Ken & also a buddy of mine is contacting a buddy of his at a mazda dealer. I will see what happens. It isn't the end of the world. I figure the car will be sold in a year or two anyways.
 
And for those of you laughing at my bright red ricer drums, I will be painting them black when it stops snowing in Chicago and actually gets above freezing.
 
that does suck Santos. Do they use salt to treat the roads there? How is the paint under the side skirts?
 
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i just discovered some rust on the inside lip of my trunk...oh well, time for some more carbonfiber...i know your pain though.
 

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Dude! That thing needs the drop on it bad!

Just sand the paint back until you get to healthy metal, and get all the rust off with a wire wheel, prime, and repaint that area.
 
Just last week I noticed rust in the same exact spot. You should also check the spot between your rear bumper and the metal body (I also found some paint beginning to bubble). Somehow both rust spots are on the rear drivers side, and only there. I ordered some paint and clear coat in a spray can from paintscratch.com, and after doing a test spray on there sample paper the paint seems to be a 99% match. I am kind of lucky that I found it early and there isn't a large area that needs to be painted (the size of a penny in both spots). I'll try to fix it this weekend hopefully so I can let you know if it's worth it or not. I guess the worst that can happen is you take it to a body shop to have them fix it.

The salted roads around Chicago are horrible. I washed my car every day after I would get any salt on it, and it still rusted through. In the summer there wasn't any sign of bubbling, and all of a sudden this happens.
 
Sorry For the Threadjack but...

Mp3 performance, im guessing you have a laser blue Mp3 and you said the paint was a 99% match. Did the paint you order come up as stary blue mica?? If you can get a pic that would be great cuz im tryin to find someone who carries the correct paint. Also, did you order the paint in a spray can from them? Sorry for all the questions, just tryin to treat the Mp3 right.
 
hey Santos, you would not believe this but Adam's car looks even worse. his entire rear wheel well is rotting apart from the rust.

your best bet at this point is professional repair. what needs to be done is that section sanded down to bare metal, then treated for rust and sanded and primed. then paint it, sand it, paint it again, wet sand it, paint it and then clear coat it. just before i sold the white RX7 i sanded all the problem spots down (and you know there were ALOT) and bondoed, sanded, repainted. i used paintscratch.com to match it and they were dead on, even for a 1985 car! if all you want is a rattlecan they are the only place to go to. dealerships sell the brush bottles and that is it, otherwise if you want a pro to do it you should check out APS in libertyville, they sell all the supplies needed and they use PPG premium paints. then you could get any one with the tools and experience to take care of that. or there is always Maaco.

if you are going to trade it in though, you really should have it done right. that right there kills resale and trade value and in the end its worth it to have it fixed right.
 
hey Santos, you would not believe this but Adam's car looks even worse. his entire rear wheel well is rotting apart from the rust.

your best bet at this point is professional repair. what needs to be done is that section sanded down to bare metal, then treated for rust and sanded and primed. then paint it, sand it, paint it again, wet sand it, paint it and then clear coat it. just before i sold the white RX7 i sanded all the problem spots down (and you know there were ALOT) and bondoed, sanded, repainted. i used paintscratch.com to match it and they were dead on, even for a 1985 car! if all you want is a rattlecan they are the only place to go to. dealerships sell the brush bottles and that is it, otherwise if you want a pro to do it you should check out APS in libertyville, they sell all the supplies needed and they use PPG premium paints. then you could get any one with the tools and experience to take care of that. or there is always Maaco.

if you are going to trade it in though, you really should have it done right. that right there kills resale and trade value and in the end its worth it to have it fixed right.


Anyone you would recommend for doing the actual body work & painting?
 
I would get some Ospho to treat and stop the rust. You can get a quart of it at Ace Hardware. You could fix it yourself for much less than a shop will charge you to repair it and blend in such a small area. I'd go that route since you will be off loading soon. Either way put some ospho on it to prevent further spreading and eventual rust through given your environment.
 
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