I had a Mazda 5 ( 2010 ) from 2017 until it got totaled this Feb. Then I got a 2015 Mazda 5 with 70k miles on it. Both were fine cars from my limited experience driving them (I drive less than 3k miles year and it will be even less this year with COVID) but I do like the practicality and handling.
The only thing I found the 2nd gen lacking is the relatively dated infotainment system (no backup camera, navigation, and no Bluetooth in sport trim) but $100 Android head unit replacement took care of that.
Now I just need to have the transmission fluid changed and it will be perfect.
Very true. I picked up my ‘12 model in ‘14 with right around 20k miles on it. It was in immaculate condition. By comparison I’ve trashed it, but three kids and driving in and out of DC nearly daily for over a year.....
I swapped in an aftermarket pioneer unit shortly after buying it. I didn’t install the backup camera at the time, and actually just put one in last fall. Sadly that pioneer unit finally crapped out right as the pandemic hit, so for the moment I just threw the OE head unit back in since it’s barely being driven at all right now. Technology has always been something Mazda lags behind other manufacturers, and the 5 is a great demonstration of that.
I bought a '12 new, now with 175k km, base model with a manual. When people ask me what I think of it I tell them "it does everything....OK". It's kind of like that cheap multi-tool you keep in your glovebox that gets the job done, but isn't great at any one task. Its largely based on the 3, but heavier, so some of the parts are marginal.
This. So much this. The 5 is like the ultimate compromise car, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. If you have slightly older kids the back seats are perfect for them. If you have a baby you get an easy sliding door for getting them in out (plus sliding doors are objectively nice). If you routinely need a large cargo area but not six seats it’s perfect. But, you can’t carry both things and people well together. With the back seats up you have a tiny cargo area behind them. We solved that with a roof rack and a huge cargo container for our occasional road trips.
I live in an area where they sand/salt/brine the roads and it eats thru cars like crazy so some of my issues may not apply.
. Issues so far:
-Rust. Tailgate, roof, and passenger door.
-2 rear shock mounts have failed, maybe corrosion related. They are made out of a cheap cast material. I have heard of steel ones being available but haven't looked into it.
-About to install the 3rd set of complete brakes/rotors, Maybe corrosion related.
-1 rear wheel bearing replaced around 160k, another one is needing replacement.
-Intermittent check engine light for the last 70k. Small evap leak. replaced purge valve, didn't fix it. I just live with it now.
-2 sway bar links replaced, 120k and 150k
-Muffler and mid pipe need replacing.
-Rear tire wear on the inside edge is a problem for some people.
-If you have bigger than size 7 feet you may not like the manual. My toes hit the clutch arm when I push the clutch.
-The front undertray is fairly vulnerable to road debris. Mine is broken/cracked in a few places.
-Gas mileage is so-so. I typically get 500km from a tank but have got pretty close to 800km when I drive like a grandma.
I’ll add on to that. I’ve also had some of these issues, not all exclusive to the 5.
-replaced leaking exhaust
-replaced rear shocks (when swapping springs) and replaced shock mounts. Mine hadn’t failed, but I knew they were a common thing to crap out. Shocks were pretty much toast at just under 100k miles, and I have recently ordered new struts for the front for the same reason.
-Only On my second set of brakes
-front under tray is fragile plastic, and is meant more as a splash shield and for aerodynamics than real protection. Like many cars the nuts/bolts which hold it on tend to strip out or rust together and sometimes it can be a pain to get off if the hardware is in poor condtion.
-the rear tire wear is a known Mazda thing because they have built in negative camber. Make sure to rotate every 5k miles, and assuming you have tires which are asymmetrical and can roll either direction swap in a cross pattern (fronts to back, backs cross to fronts) to help even out the tire wear. I had to do this on my 3 as well. Flattening out the camber would require aftermarket parts because the stock aren’t adjustable.
-about to replace the right side motor mount to see if it eliminates some at idle (in gear) vibration.
I just did a swap on my ATX fluid (three drain and fills, plus an extra liter spilled out on the ground because I’m easily distracted and didn’t disconnect the hose). Old fluid was nasty, black, and burned. New fluid in and it shifts much nicer and lost some vibration it had.
