LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
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JDM Sam said:
Mine is so damn tight I can turn the motor over with the tensioner set as slack as possible and she will hold just fine. You can tell it isn't tight by the way the belt slips but it turns over... I leave the tensioner loose while I get the timing of it right, and then when it looks good, put the tensioner back the way it is supposed to be and then recheck everything.. so we apparently get a little different experiences in that department which is no big deal.
Yep... definitely clearances won't be the same... but they should be within a reasonable range.. I'd guess everyone should be within roughly 30 to 40 thousandths of one another which is still plenty of room for the cams to be off by a good margin... but the moral of the story regardless is that serious damage can occur if things got very serious and the cams become off by enough... so very good to be very careful regardless!
Just inaccuracies in the system etc.. the Haltech was locked at 10 right? Timing can really be off by quite a bit on these systems... that is part of why it is important to time it in.. and also part of why we can't get as nice of gains as we should through timing adjustments.
Ok, I just went for a drive at lunch, and got a new tank of gas. I also noticed that I have some kind of metalic rattle comming from under my car when I turn, and when I accellerate. It kind of sounds like Ping, but I know that this is not ping due to the location of the rattle. This could be what I have been hearing the whole time. I think that my axles (CV Joints) may be starting to go after 140,000 + miles. (eek2) I think what I was hearing most of the other day may have been this. I will have to make time to re-connect the J&S today or tomorrow.
wow, dude, 140K! I have a 99 at 83k..
I got my own crank pulley loose finally, and will be doing the timing belt thing here as well. I have the service manual, so no guesswork. Still, any tips from you folks?
On another note, during tuning, I noticed that the Haltech reported a much smaller rpm than the gauge on the cluster. Is that normal?
I got my own crank pulley loose finally, and will be doing the timing belt thing here as well. I have the service manual, so no guesswork. Still, any tips from you folks?
On another note, during tuning, I noticed that the Haltech reported a much smaller rpm than the gauge on the cluster. Is that normal?
I actually "drive" my car. This is why I bought it in the 1st place. I don't park it in the garage to look pretty. I have had it since 2001. 
Of course I have already replaced so many parts that it is not as old as it seems. The engine only has about 50K on it This is in 2 years of driving with it in.
Of course I have already replaced so many parts that it is not as old as it seems. The engine only has about 50K on it This is in 2 years of driving with it in.tip: Mark at least one tooth on each of the 3 gears after you have it on and have rotated the motor over at least twice (it takes two revolutions to get the cams lined back up... you can "feel" that as you will feel compression 4 times in the period). That way by marking them (with chalk or something soft that you don't damage or penetrate the belt) you can see which teeth were where so that when you have to make adjustments to get everything in line that you know what has to move to where. Other than that take your time and make sure you get the tensioner hooked back up before you close things up.
.new tensioner, new idler, new belt. I don't think I understand the point of your tip. Just to make sure, after everything is buttoned up again, and I have put on the timing belt, and AFTER the two revolutions of the crank pulley, THEN mark one tooth on each gear (2 cams & crank pulley)? You are saying they will line up differently from the time BEFORE the two revolutions to the time AFTER the two revolutions? What will this benefit me in the future? If that is a stupid question, keep in mind I'm not terribly experience with all this.TurfBurn said:
If you get the belts to look lined up before you rotate the motor over completely twice, you'll often end up with the timing marks no longer being lined up... it has to do with the influence of the tensioner and how things work out in the end.. so it is absolutely necessary to rotate that motor over a few times before rechecking the timing marks. The reason I say to mark the teeth at that point is that if you are off after you've done this then these points give you the reference points you need to make an adjustment accurately. Marking the teeth/belt beforehand does nothing for you as the belt will not be in the same place (you'd have to rotate the motor over many many times before they'd line up again.). So it is a reference you create just before you do the final adjustment... and it is important to keep track of the crank gear against the belt as well.. hence I said to mark all 3... otherwise if you slip it off the crank gear while adjusting the upper gears you are back to being SOL as you just lost your timing relative to the crankshaft.
glyph said:
Right... but what we found which surprised me was that the marks looked all lined up but after we rotated it over they weren't aligned any more... that was my point.. if that happens to you then you need to adjust to correct that... and then recheck it.
(jacked)
Well, me and Ahmad made a nice little discovery today. As you know for the past few days I have been getting some detonation. I actually verified my timing, and adjusted my trigger angle to 47 degrees to get the mark on the cam pulley to line up with 10 degrees when the timing is locked at 10 degrees. Today we used my timing light, and verifed his timing with the timing lock set to 10, and enabled. The mark was WAY off from the 10 degree mark. We left it there. Now Juan actually runs his maps with the trigger angle set to 67 degrees (with 70 the supposed normal for our engines). I always wondered about this after Steve Kan had adjusted my trigger angle to 55. It seems that is why Ahmad can run more timing under full boost than I can. It seems that my car was more prone to detonation with a lower trigger angle dialed in. After talking to Juan today, he said they found the best medium to tune with at 67 trigger angle (which is 3 degrees advanced). For s**** and giggles, I adjusted my trigger anlgle to 67, and ran my current map. I had absolutely NO power when I stepped on it. Then I realized that at full boost, I run 17 degrees of timing advance. With this trigger angle setting I would have to add timing to get me power. Then I understood why Ahmad's car ran so good with more timing (like 24-25 degrees at full boost). The trigger angle setting allowed for more timing.
Well, me and Ahmad made a nice little discovery today. As you know for the past few days I have been getting some detonation. I actually verified my timing, and adjusted my trigger angle to 47 degrees to get the mark on the cam pulley to line up with 10 degrees when the timing is locked at 10 degrees. Today we used my timing light, and verifed his timing with the timing lock set to 10, and enabled. The mark was WAY off from the 10 degree mark. We left it there. Now Juan actually runs his maps with the trigger angle set to 67 degrees (with 70 the supposed normal for our engines). I always wondered about this after Steve Kan had adjusted my trigger angle to 55. It seems that is why Ahmad can run more timing under full boost than I can. It seems that my car was more prone to detonation with a lower trigger angle dialed in. After talking to Juan today, he said they found the best medium to tune with at 67 trigger angle (which is 3 degrees advanced). For s**** and giggles, I adjusted my trigger anlgle to 67, and ran my current map. I had absolutely NO power when I stepped on it. Then I realized that at full boost, I run 17 degrees of timing advance. With this trigger angle setting I would have to add timing to get me power. Then I understood why Ahmad's car ran so good with more timing (like 24-25 degrees at full boost). The trigger angle setting allowed for more timing.
