Evan just leave the dust sheilds on the car for now. You can use them as a pattern to make brake ducts in the future. You will be fine for now while autoxing. Since you don't have a co-driver you will have time between runs for your brakes to cool down. I am not currently using brake ducts on my RX-7 and I run a very agressive pad withg stock rotors. If you have more questions we can talk on Sunday.
Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
- Thread starter Lewis7789
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- MSP 1145
Evan, just got the roll cage out. just giving you a heads up.
iamthewheelman
Member
Subbin
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
CF brake ducts? (2cents)
I've got a bunch of plastic from work I've been whording (ABS, I think) I will use for the brake ducts and splitter when the time comes.
Pics!
Jake and Ivan's Speed3's.
From our usual friday night Menchies frozen yogurt hang out.
On the way to Menchies. Thanks for the pics, Jess!
Pics!
Jake and Ivan's Speed3's.
From our usual friday night Menchies frozen yogurt hang out.
On the way to Menchies. Thanks for the pics, Jess!
CheeseHelmet
Member
Who's white NA miata is that? I've always had a soft spot for those things 
I saw a super clean one for $5k at a car dealer this week but sadly it was all riced-out on the inside.
I saw a super clean one for $5k at a car dealer this week but sadly it was all riced-out on the inside.
It's Jess's (xelar8 or something like that) and it's pretty sweet. I'll ask her to post some pics. She's building an LS6 swapped NA as well. She's pretty freaking awesome, not gonna lie.
I'm typically not a fan of Miata's because of the Miata attitude towards all FWD Mazdas, but I really like her N/A's. They are stripped down to the bare essentials and she's not snobby about owning them. I just get a snobby vibe from a lot of Miata owners. But I'm not gonna open that can of worms in here.
-que Josh "NOT up in here!"
I'm typically not a fan of Miata's because of the Miata attitude towards all FWD Mazdas, but I really like her N/A's. They are stripped down to the bare essentials and she's not snobby about owning them. I just get a snobby vibe from a lot of Miata owners. But I'm not gonna open that can of worms in here.
-que Josh "NOT up in here!"
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- MSP 1145
Thanks, Damian.
Got all the Hawk HP+ pads on all four corners. God, I love Georgia cars. That would've been a 3 day ordeal on my last P5. Torqued my wheels again, checked tire pressures and all my fluids and topped off the coolant resevoir jug only to crack the top of it when putting the cap back on. I had a little clear mega-glue so it's curing now. I'm getting a new coolant tank when I swap anyway. Poor old girl was just tired and brittle.
Since I deleted my cruise control I've been getting a weird CEL. I deleted my CC on my old P5 without any problems. Ivan checked it with his scan tool and it says for a MAP sensor, but we don't have a MAP sensor, silly. I'm sure it's just a lame CEL because of that but it's still annoying.
Waiting for the glue to dry (2 hours) then will go bed in the new pads. Then off to Swensons for supper and Ivans for the night then to Toledo for Auto-x in the morning.
As far as bedding the pads, this is what Hawk recommends;
Bed-In Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Since I deleted my cruise control I've been getting a weird CEL. I deleted my CC on my old P5 without any problems. Ivan checked it with his scan tool and it says for a MAP sensor, but we don't have a MAP sensor, silly. I'm sure it's just a lame CEL because of that but it's still annoying.
Waiting for the glue to dry (2 hours) then will go bed in the new pads. Then off to Swensons for supper and Ivans for the night then to Toledo for Auto-x in the morning.
As far as bedding the pads, this is what Hawk recommends;
Bed-In Instructions
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
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- MSP 1145
I have a set of stainless brake lines if you need/want them tooGot all the Hawk HP+ pads on all four corners. God, I love Georgia cars. That would've been a 3 day ordeal on my last P5. Torqued my wheels again, checked tire pressures and all my fluids and topped off the coolant resevoir jug only to crack the top of it when putting the cap back on. I had a little clear mega-glue so it's curing now. I'm getting a new coolant tank when I swap anyway. Poor old girl was just tired and brittle.
Since I deleted my cruise control I've been getting a weird CEL. I deleted my CC on my old P5 without any problems. Ivan checked it with his scan tool and it says for a MAP sensor, but we don't have a MAP sensor, silly. I'm sure it's just a lame CEL because of that but it's still annoying.
Waiting for the glue to dry (2 hours) then will go bed in the new pads. Then off to Swensons for supper and Ivans for the night then to Toledo for Auto-x in the morning.
As far as bedding the pads, this is what Hawk recommends;
Bed-In Instructions
close
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
I didn't come to a complete stop when I bedded my pads, more like hard slowdowns. I did however do the speed progression as recommended. I read some place that it tatoos the rotors if you come to a full stop and will cause them to pulse later after a hard stop.
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