Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
- Thread starter Lewis7789
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is this still car talk?
I understand that..But you would never catch me tapping that thermostat neck and counting on it to hold anything in place and seal.I don't know how fine the thread is on these coolant sensors that you are talking about, but the one on mine is not super fine, and at that point you are talking about not even having one full thread to engage on the pipe..no thanks. I'll drill a hole, weld on a threaded nut/fitting and thread my sensor in there if I am going to use one of those (granted I am not, but if I was).
hahahahhahahahahaha
you caught onto what i was talking about... Jkpgt96, i wouldnt tap the thermostat housing either way too thin when it comes to what we were originally talking about.. lol What about the housing neck for the upper radiator hose though, a good enough location for factory, and is cast and thicker.
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I'm just wanting that damn fan to work. It may have been too chilly lastnight for the engine temp to get high enough that the fan would come on - I never heard that relay click (the one under the hood in the fusebox), but I did check the fuse for the fan power - and it had 12.7 volts to ground. Power is there.....it's just that the relay isn't firing.
Maybe rev it up?
Maybe rev it up?
ihone i really thing the aftermarket relay setup is the best route for u to get it going quickly they can be bought at autozone or advance or other auto parts places..When I finished the swap I tried to have it exactly how u do now, but never got them working using the protege relay/wiring. Rather than spend more money and time on it i chose to y the relay setup and spent 15min wiring it up.
Just, to help you out if u want to keep the stock wiring and relay setup. You may need to give the protege ecu a rpm signal from the v6. However its not going to be correct. So, if you are doding what evan and I did and using a tach adapter for ur tachometer to work then, you can tap that wire going to the tach after the adapter and run it to the rpm signal wire on the protege ecu. Hope thats clear. I think the protege ecu activates the relay.
so....
v6 disty ------> Tach Adapter ------Protege ECU Input & Protege CLuster
Just, to help you out if u want to keep the stock wiring and relay setup. You may need to give the protege ecu a rpm signal from the v6. However its not going to be correct. So, if you are doding what evan and I did and using a tach adapter for ur tachometer to work then, you can tap that wire going to the tach after the adapter and run it to the rpm signal wire on the protege ecu. Hope thats clear. I think the protege ecu activates the relay.
so....
v6 disty ------> Tach Adapter ------Protege ECU Input & Protege CLuster
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Haha...I see what you did there...just took me a second.
ihone, I just used the thermal probe in the radiator setup like Justin described. It was ~$60 from Advanced (locally) and was so easy to wire up even I did it by myself. 
I ran my motor in the summer a couple months and never had any issues with heating/cooling and the fans worked just fine. Though, I do like the more permanent solution of the threaded coolant probe like JK was talking about by welding a bung and such. But that housing is aluminum right? I haz no access to a Tig welder...
I ran my motor in the summer a couple months and never had any issues with heating/cooling and the fans worked just fine. Though, I do like the more permanent solution of the threaded coolant probe like JK was talking about by welding a bung and such. But that housing is aluminum right? I haz no access to a Tig welder...
ihone:
Here is the diagram for the protege fan wiring. As you can see the PCM controls the relay. However what variables the PCM needs to activate it are unknown to me. Im sure Temp, and RPM are likely the mandatory, but whether it needs a crank signal, cam position, emissions garbage, any of that is beyond what i know/can find. So, try giving the protege ecu a proper RPM signal and try that. If that does not work then I would ditch the idea and go with an aftermarket relay setup.
Here is the diagram for the protege fan wiring. As you can see the PCM controls the relay. However what variables the PCM needs to activate it are unknown to me. Im sure Temp, and RPM are likely the mandatory, but whether it needs a crank signal, cam position, emissions garbage, any of that is beyond what i know/can find. So, try giving the protege ecu a proper RPM signal and try that. If that does not work then I would ditch the idea and go with an aftermarket relay setup.
ihone, I just used the thermal probe in the radiator setup like Justin described. It was ~$60 from Advanced (locally) and was so easy to wire up even I did it by myself.
I ran my motor in the summer a couple months and never had any issues with heating/cooling and the fans worked just fine. Though, I do like the more permanent solution of the threaded coolant probe like JK was talking about by welding a bung and such. But that housing is aluminum right? I haz no access to a Tig welder...
Yeah, I think it is aluminum.
Well, until I get more money - I'm going to have to hardwire it to a switch. It's only a temporary fix until I get some more cash...
tomorrow is gonna be NO fun - gotta go to pulla part and get an intermediate shaft from either a 626 or an mx6 (94-97), and hopefully find a different PS neck for the reservoir feed line (the neck on mine is leaking something FIERCE!). I need to show ya'll the photo of my rear header too...the o2 sensor is 1" away from the power steering rack.....and I don't see any way to get it threaded in there, let alone run one in that spot. May have to weld a bung in the header in another spot just to make it work and plug that hole with a bolt.
tomorrow is gonna be NO fun - gotta go to pulla part and get an intermediate shaft from either a 626 or an mx6 (94-97), and hopefully find a different PS neck for the reservoir feed line (the neck on mine is leaking something FIERCE!). I need to show ya'll the photo of my rear header too...the o2 sensor is 1" away from the power steering rack.....and I don't see any way to get it threaded in there, let alone run one in that spot. May have to weld a bung in the header in another spot just to make it work and plug that hole with a bolt.
yeah some of the chrome headers have that issues. As for the hardwire of the fan, wire it to key-on that way u don't forget to turn it on when the temp gets up there, also the stock temp gauge is so inaccurate i wouldnt trust it to judge when to turn the fan on.
Well, I got yet another set of wheels for the P6. I am buying my roommates (fishdonotbounce) Rays.They're 17.7 +50 with Dunlop Star Specs 225/40-17 (IIRC) with Mazdaspeed center caps. And they are flawless without a single scratch. I'm super stoked. I was pretty jelly when he first got them. Gotta love Team Ohio!
I'm kinda over the whole "black wheels" thang so I'll probably strip my ASA's and paint them some crazy color like red for kicks. Or paint them silver and sell them but since the rubber is new I wouldn't get what I paid for for them so I'll probably run them a while.
And as far as the build, the ole P6 looks so sad in the garage. My buddy Wes bought the Recaros and fabbed up some brackets for his 626 so my car doesn't even have seats anymore. heh-heh.But after Christmas (I feel like a douche buying parts for myself when it's so close to Christmas) the build will be back in full effect. I get a quarterly bonus plus my tax refund in January so I'll have some extra cash. I'm just going to go with a ZE with some colt cams and DE valve retainers and keep it N/A. Then build myself a MegaSquirt and shoot for 200whp. Which will be plenty for me to get around Mid-Ohio, BeaveRun and the grocery store. Then I'll need the AutoPower roll bar, a pair of decent race seats and legal harnesses. And a manual rack still. So quite a big chunk of change but I'm sure once it warms up again here in Ohio the build will come along rather quickly. Right now I'm just loving the Milly. Not so much the 19mpg on that land yacht, heh-heh.
iracemine, did you pick up that Protege manual rack? Any info you can share about it?
I'm kinda over the whole "black wheels" thang so I'll probably strip my ASA's and paint them some crazy color like red for kicks. Or paint them silver and sell them but since the rubber is new I wouldn't get what I paid for for them so I'll probably run them a while.
And as far as the build, the ole P6 looks so sad in the garage. My buddy Wes bought the Recaros and fabbed up some brackets for his 626 so my car doesn't even have seats anymore. heh-heh.But after Christmas (I feel like a douche buying parts for myself when it's so close to Christmas) the build will be back in full effect. I get a quarterly bonus plus my tax refund in January so I'll have some extra cash. I'm just going to go with a ZE with some colt cams and DE valve retainers and keep it N/A. Then build myself a MegaSquirt and shoot for 200whp. Which will be plenty for me to get around Mid-Ohio, BeaveRun and the grocery store. Then I'll need the AutoPower roll bar, a pair of decent race seats and legal harnesses. And a manual rack still. So quite a big chunk of change but I'm sure once it warms up again here in Ohio the build will come along rather quickly. Right now I'm just loving the Milly. Not so much the 19mpg on that land yacht, heh-heh.
iracemine, did you pick up that Protege manual rack? Any info you can share about it?
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PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Hmm, 200whp, wonder where you got that idea, big copy cat. I was the first one ever to come up with that.
I swear my mom used to get 24mpg in her Milly, I wonder if yours is running 100%.
I swear my mom used to get 24mpg in her Milly, I wonder if yours is running 100%.
i was too late. nice new wheels though- Status
