Last check before taking plunge on 2024 CX-5 Carbon Edition

[zhoom-zhoom]

Hello. After many hours of research and weeks of cooling off period, I have decided to go with the 2024 CX-5 Carbon Edition in a few weeks. I currently drive the 2012 Mazda 3 with 215K miles with practically no maintenance other than replacing oil, brake pads, filters, tires, batteries. This experience already has Mazda close to my soft spot. It has been more than a decade since last purchase with Mazda. Can anyone share why I should not go for it? Thanks.

 

[sm1ke]

The only thing I would do is make sure you're able to get one without cylinder deactivation and i-Stop, if you want something with as little potential for failure as possible. The risk of any issues related to this tech is minimal, but can be avoided completely by getting a model without these features.

You'll also want to get in the habit of changing other maintenance items like spark plugs and fluids (brake fluid, ATF, coolant, differential fluid) as well. Coolant replacement schedule is listed in the manual, and brake fluid should be inspected regularly and replaced as required. ATF and differential fluid are listed as "lifetime" fluids, which I don't agree with. Others replace these fluids on their own schedule, and some will also drop the transmission pan to replace that filter at least once. These maintenance intervals are anywhere from 30-60k mi for ATF and maybe 80-100k for differential fluid, depending on owner preference. Some of these are not "required" to go 200k+, but regular maintenance can improve fuel economy and engine performance, and greatly improve the likelihood of your car getting to that age (and further).

 

[yrwei52]

Hello. After many hours of research and weeks of cooling off period, I have decided to go with the 2024 CX-5 Carbon Edition in a few weeks. I currently drive the 2012 Mazda 3 with 215K miles with practically no maintenance other than replacing oil, brake pads, filters, tires, batteries. This experience already has Mazda close to my soft spot. It has been more than a decade since last purchase with Mazda. Can anyone share why I should not go for it? Thanks.

For many 2024 CX-5’s Mazda has been offering the 2.5L NA without cylinder deactivation which is problematic. Make sure to get one without CD.

Buy the 2024 CX-5 NA to avoid cylinder head crack issue?

... NOTE: To identify vehicles with cylinder deactivation, examine the (HENRY THE) 8th digit of the VIN.
• L(ove): 2.5L without cylinder deactivation
• M(isery): 2.5L with cylinder deactivation ...

I've got it programmed in my brain now as:

Henry the EIGHTH, LOVE // MISERY

Haha

 

[onerpm]

...because you could drive your 3 another 100k miles.

 

[zhoom-zhoom]

@sm1ke, @yrwei52 ,

Great advice. I also find the iStop annoying as hell.
As for emissions and saving the planet, ask the Romans in Pompei if the earth still needs saving. -George Carlin

 

[N7turbo]

I also find the CD annoying as hell.

I believe you were referring to i-Stop, as CD is not noticeable to the driver. i-Stop is subjective and ranges from "I don't care much" to "I hate it when it does it".

 

[zhoom-zhoom]

I believe you were referring to i-Stop, as CD is not noticeable to the driver. i-Stop is subjective and ranges from "I don't care much" to "I hate it when it does it".

You're right. I meant istop.

 

[ceric]

KISS.
Keep it simple silly ... more reliable.

My '16 Mazda6 GT has the iEloop tech.
Mazda claims it saves 1-2mpg. I barely notice that after owning it for 8yrs.

The downside is:
1. expensive battery swap - AGM + reprogramming at dealership (my local dealer wants $500)
Did it once 4 yrs ago (dealer paid for it somehow...). Another is almost due. Compare that to normal $100 battery swap.
2. Supercap (expensive if it fails ... $300? + programming). Mine is OK so far. Keeping my fingers crossed.

These special inventions from Mazda was to keep EPA happy (for 1-2mpg claimed) ... not really making sense to owners in the long run. Keep that in mind.

From my perspective, CD and iStop fall into the same category.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ From my perspective, CD and iStop fall into the same category.

Among cylinder deactivation、istop、and iEloop, I’d say CD is the worst as it could give you cracked cylinder head、bad switchable HLAs、stuck engine oil solenoid valve、ATF contamination by single lock-up clutch in torque converter; and more. Any one of these problems once happens, it’d cost you a lot more than a special Q-85 battery used only for istop and iEloop.

 

[zhoom-zhoom]

Among cylinder deactivation、istop、and iEloop, I’d say CD is the worst as it could give you cracked cylinder head、bad switchable HLAs、stuck engine oil solenoid valve、ATF contamination by single lock-up clutch in torque converter; and more. Any one of these problems once happens, it’d cost you a lot more than a special Q-85 battery used only for istop and iEloop.

Luckily for me, the 2024 target model doesn't have the CDA/iStop features.