KCKrogoth's MP5 Build

[KCKrogoth]

Hey all! Havent really introduced myself officially, but Ive been floating around the forums for quite a few years now and been off and on with modifying my 2002 P5. I spent a few years recently in Japan and really got into the car scene there and decided to get more serious with my Mazda here in the states once I returned to the states. So, wasnt going to do a build thread, but have been doing a lot of building/researching/and planning on future mods for the ol P5 and decided to put it into a place to organize it all and get input on future upgrades and such from the community! So I guess Ill get to the point and just get started

Mod List So Far:

2002 Mazda Protege5

Interior:
-Color matched trim
-Mazdaspeed floor mats
-B&M short shifter
-AutoExe 260gram shift knob
-Autometer dual gauge pillar
-AEM Voltmeter
-AEM Oil Pressure gauge
-Apexi SAFC
-MP5 Emblem
-LED Map/Interior lights

Exterior:
-2.5% Tint rear windows, 15% Tint front windows
-MP5 Emblem
-Blacked out chrome emblems
-Tinted fender signal lights
-JDM Tails
-10k HID Low beams
-LED Bulbs all around
-LED Turn signal mod (doesnt blink all stupid fast)
-Shorty antenna
-Carbon Fiber Hood Dampers
-Enkei EDR9s 18x7.5 +45
-Kumho ECSTA AST 215/35R18

Engine:
-Powder coated valve cover
-Injen RD CAI
-Nology plug wires/coil pack relocation kit
-NGK Iridium Plugs
-VTCS removed/Ported intake manifold
-Full AWR 88 Duro Mounts
-AWR Deep Sump Oil Pan
-OBX header
-SLS Catless midpipe
-HKS Hi-Power Axel-back exhaust

Suspension/Brakes:
-BC Racing BR Coilovers
-EBC USR Slotted Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-AWR Front/Rear endlinks

ICE:
-Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD Headunit
-Kicker KS68 Front door speakers
-Kicker KS65 Rear door speakers
-XM Satellite Radio
-2 Kenwood 12 Subs w/ Kenwood Amp
-Optima Yellow Top Battery
-Tsunami Connectors and Sub Wiring

Future Plans:
-BRIDE DIGO Type-R seats
-BRIDE RO-Type rails
-Rotora Steel Braided Brake lines
-Powder Coat Brake Calipers
-Goodridge SS Clutch line
-ACT 6 Puck Sprung Clutch kit w/ HD Pressure Plate
-Fidanza 7.5lb Flywheel
-Seatbelt/Harness Bar/Chassis Brace
-Hella Supertone Horns
-AutoEXE Rear Wing
-DG Fiberglass Grill
-DG Urethane Front Lip
-VIS EVO Style Hood Carbon Fiber
-H3 6000K HID kit (for fogs)
-Machined Block, punched 0.020 over
-Speed Circuit Turbo kit
-8.5 to 1 Wiseco Pistons (+0.020)
-ACL Complete Bearing set
-ARP Head/Main Studs
-Cometic Head gasket (0.036)
-M. Tech H-Beam Rods
-Supertech 1mm valves/Dual springs/Titanium Retainer kit
-Mazdaspeed ECU
-Split Second AFC
-Jay Racing Fuel Rail/FPR/Fuel Pump

 

[KCKrogoth]

Pics of what she looks like thus far...

 

[Brian_K]

nice p5. did you chop the tip off your hks exhaust?

 

[Bastian]

I hate you.





Beautiful car.
(2thumbs)

 

[CR3 Motorsports]

Looking good!

Have you had any problems with the Nology system?

 

[204vividPro5]

Awesome

Sub'n, Nice build man more inspiration for myself haha

 

[KCKrogoth]

nice p5. did you chop the tip off your hks exhaust?

Nah, that is the old Ricer exhaust that I had on there beforehand...I have the new one on there now....I'll post pics as I filter through them, done a bunch of stuff since that point, have some back dating to do on here to get me where I'm at now

 

[KCKrogoth]

Looking good!

Have you had any problems with the Nology system?

Thanx man! No probs with the Nology system, works good, I have a steady idle and no ignition problems from what I can tell...If anything I noticed a gain in power and faster response from better ignition, but only a minor amount

 

[KCKrogoth]

Got some more pictures and some build stuffs to update from before to back date this post some....

When I first purchased her...

New wheels/brakes and pads...

AWR mount set...

 

[KCKrogoth]

Valve cover job...before and after.

 

[KCKrogoth]

LED Blinker Mod

I did not make this write up, just a bit of a disclaimer, I found this on this site: http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=44495 ...I do not take credit for this process, however I did take the photos below being that there were none. I'll post the write-up for convenience:

3G Protege: LED Turn Signals / Flasher Rewiring
I recently replaced my front and rear turn signal bulbs on my 2002.5 Proteg5 with LED bulbs. My primary objective was to get rid of the visibly yellow bulbs inside the clear circle at the rear, so the two circles both appear clear. I also replaced the bulbs at the front while I was at it, but this made only a minor appearance difference when the light is off. It does look really nice when on, though, as the LED's are crisper and more uniform in color than the OEM bulbs were.

I was rewarded with turn signals that flash at double the normal rate. This is the indicator that a bulb is burnt out. The standard fix is apparently to install resistors in the circuit to emulate the load of the original bulbs, but that's a hokey fix. Besides, the resistors are expensive; I'd rather use the original bulbs as resistors, just reinstall them somewhere inside where you can't see them.

The following is a step-by-step description of how to properly get rid of this irritating double-speed flashing.

The first item needed is a suitable flasher unit that lacks such a bulb failure warning feature. I found one at AutoZone, Tridon/Stant no. EL12, about $10. This flasher unit has two terminals. There are similar units with three terminals, those might be useful as well, but the wiring might require some minor adjustments. Note that the EL12 does *not* specify that it is "LED compatible", but it does indicate that it's intended for use with trailers or other extra lighting requirements. It also clarifies that it has no bulb failure warning feature and recommends that you check your bulbs regularly.

The other item needed is a diode. I used cat. no. 276-1114 from Radio Shack, package of 3 for less than $2. These diodes are rated for 1000V and 2.5A. Frankly, the 2.5A is marginal for this application. I wired two of these diodes in parallel for this job, but I'm not sure that's a valid thing to do -- one diode may carry all the current anyway. Ideally, it'd be better to find a diode rated at 5A or more. I know such things exist -- I know where one is used on a Jaguar, but obviously that's not a convenient source -- so if someone can tell us how to find better diodes for this application, that'd be good.

You might also want to get a few of those wire taps, the plastic things that allow you to splice one wire into another without a lot of fuss.

Here's the steps involved.

First you'll need to locate the Mazda flasher unit. It's a white plastic box located directly above the driver's left foot (LHD car), just about as high as you can get under there. It's mounted on a metal bracket, but if you slide the box towards the front of the car it comes loose from the bracket. You can then depress a small latch and unplug the wiring harness from it.

There are seven wires to this flasher unit. Four of these are W/R, W/B, G/W, and G/B.

Disconnect the W/R wire from the flasher unit and splice it into the G/W wire. Note: The G/W wire should remain connected to the Mazda flasher unit.

Disconnect the W/B wire from the flasher unit and splice it into the G/B wire. Note: The G/B wire should remain connected to the Mazda
flasher unit.

To the left of the driver's feet is a fuse box. There is a B/Y wire that goes from this fuse box to the turn signal stalk switch. You need to find this wire. If you remove the plastic doorsill (it just pops off) and then lift the center of a plastic dot to the left of the driver's toes, you can remove the entire cover surrounding the fuse box. There is one connector on the side of the fuse box facing you (at the top) and several connectors around on the other side where they're more difficult to get at. The wire you're looking for is in the uppermost connector around on the hard-to-get-at side. It's just one bolt and one screw to get the entire fusebox loose, if that helps.

Now, unfortunately, there are at least three B/Y wires in this connector, and you need to find the right one. Disconnect the entire connector from the fuse box. If you have an ohmmeter, connect one probe to the W/R wire you were fiddling with up above. Turn on the RH turn signal. Using the other probe, check each of the B/Y wires until you find the one that has continuity. You can turn the right turn signal on and off to confirm.

If you don't have an ohmmeter, I can tell you that the correct B/Y wire is the one that's on the same side of the connector as the latch, and there's an empty terminal slot next to it. With a very tiny screwdriver, you can pop this terminal out of the connector, plug the connector back into the fuse box, then turn on the ignition and confirm that you've killed power to the turn signals. When powered the turn signals wouldn't actually flash thanks to the splices you made above, but they would light up.

Once you have found the correct wire, you need to break it and splice in both the diode and the EL12 flasher unit in series. The diode will have a stripe on one end; you need to connect the other end to the wire coming from the fuse box. Connect the end of the diode with the stripe to the terminal marked "X" on the EL12 flasher unit. Connect the other terminal on the EL12 flasher unit to the B/Y wire going to the turn signal stalk switch.

All done! Test everything: Try out the hazard switch, turn on the ignition and try out both turn signals, and try out the remote door locks. Make sure all the lights work as intended in all modes.

I even tried using the turn signals and hazard switch at the same time, an interesting concept since they now use separate flashers. They worked fine -- in fact, it seems the two flashers coordinate themselves and flash in unison.
__________________
-- Kirbert

EL12 with 6A Diode soldered to it

Spliced into the balck and yellow wire on the fuse box

wires that are cut and tapped

Hope this helps out....I acquired the Relay at Autozone and the Diodes at Radioshack like the wire-up stated...both are still available. I did go with a larger Diode than he used (6A instead of the two 2.5A ones). And the system does work.

 

[KCKrogoth]

VTCS removal pics...

 

[KCKrogoth]

Ended up getting an oil leak and decided to investigate the situation...after pressure washing the engine I was rewarded with a puddle of oil under the car after starting it! FMS popped!

Oil mess under the timing cover...

Replaced the TB, Oil Pump, and Oil pan

 

[KCKrogoth]

Finally got rid of the crap ricer exhaust with all the holes and quick temp fix...

New HKS Hotness!

 

[DOMO]

Nice whip. Is the nology system a form of the 1.8 l conversion people are doing in the forum? And what does the VTCS removal do for the protege ?

 

[KCKrogoth]

The Nology system isn't a form of the 1.8 conversion as far as I know...However I am not familiar with this process...All it does is move the coil packs off the valve cover and add 2 extra plug wires instead of the direct shot from the bottom of the packs.

Here's the thread about the VTCS removal stuff, where I got most of my info from: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?82884-How-To-VTCS-Removal-and-Porting&highlight=VTCS+removal

But the basics idea is that it removes the restrictive butterflies that sit where the manifold meets the head. Even when they are full open they restrict air flow, so most people just remove them and plug the holes. I did the conversion and it opened up my top end a little bit more, however it takes a little longer for the car to warm up in the mornings when it's cold outside. I'm sure I'll see more positive gains from the Mod after adding the turbo being that the restriction is now removed.

 

[zoom zoom sp20]

Nice P5 mate No rust???

 

[KCKrogoth]

Nice P5 mate No rust???

Thanx! No rust...she was a Southern California car when I got it and lived in the south west its whole life

 

[DOMO]

The Nology system isn't a form of the 1.8 conversion as far as I know...However I am not familiar with this process...All it does is move the coil packs off the valve cover and add 2 extra plug wires instead of the direct shot from the bottom of the packs.

Here's the thread about the VTCS removal stuff, where I got most of my info from: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?82884-How-To-VTCS-Removal-and-Porting&highlight=VTCS+removal

But the basics idea is that it removes the restrictive butterflies that sit where the manifold meets the head. Even when they are full open they restrict air flow, so most people just remove them and plug the holes. I did the conversion and it opened up my top end a little bit more, however it takes a little longer for the car to warm up in the mornings when it's cold outside. I'm sure I'll see more positive gains from the Mod after adding the turbo being that the restriction is now removed.

Oh ic say without turboing ur protege is there any advantage of taking out the VTCS ? And where did you get the nology system from?

 

[KCKrogoth]

Removing the VTCS is basically another free "breather" upgrade. It takes the blockage out of the manifold and give you a chance to Port-match the manifold to the head. Turboing the car would prob yeild greater improvements. I think I got the Nology system from Protege Garage a while back.