J&S Ultra Safeguard to be hooked up ASAP!

[LinuxRacr]

I just did some drive testing, and have found out the following things:

Looks like the lean condition that I have been experiencing only happens at partial throttle (or closed loop). When I go WOT (floor it), it stays rich and pulls (like it should in open loop if there is enough fuel). Yesterday when I 1st started experiencing the rich condition, I adjusted the FMU to run richer (like 80 PSI). Today I pullel the gauge from under the hood, and tuned it back to 75 PSI. One thing I could do is connect the TPS wire on the J&S to the TPS on the ECU. By doing this, the TPS signal will be pulled to 5v at 0 PSI. According to the instructions, this should be enough to kick the ECU out of closed loop operation as I enter boost. I have the voltage clamp from FM though...I wonder what is up? Time to check those connections on the Voltage clamp.

For anyone who does not know what I am talking about, here is some info that will shed some light on what "closed loop" and "open loop is":

Modern ECU Theory

 

[LinuxRacr]

I did some more drive testing after hooking up the TPS wire to the TPS (Throttle position sensor) wire on the ECU. I had my PDA Dyno hooked up monitoring the Absolute Throttle Postion. When I would hit 0 PSI, I would read really rich, and my Absolute Throttle Position would read 100% (even under partial throttle)! I mean my A/F Ratio gauge read all the way rich. Interesting.

 

[70]

what kind of FMU r u running? 4-1, 6-1, 8-1, 10-1, or 12-1???

if u run less than 9psi of boost.. no timing retard is needed.., if u r running lean..no amount of retard will help!

All knock sensors has to be secure & bolted to the engine block, with a certain amount of torque,.. to have a correct reading..

On the MP3 some amount of timing retardation is needed for totally safe running at 6 psi on 91 octane gas...

At 93 octane some retardation will be needed for running higher than six to be on the safe side in the MP3 as well.

And it is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in the FM kits. Not an FMU...

 

[Kooldino]

I did some more drive testing after hooking up the TPS wire to the TPS (Throttle position sensor) wire on the ECU. I had my PDA Dyno hooked up monitoring the Absolute Throttle Postion. When I would hit 0 PSI, I would read really rich, and my Absolute Throttle Position would read 100% (even under partial throttle)! I mean my A/F Ratio gauge read all the way rich. Interesting.

Weird. SO because of your wire tricks, it thinks you are WOT and dumps a bunch of fuel in there even at 0PSI?

 

[Keith@FP]

Knock sensors are basically little microphones. Don't just hang them off brackets. We've got some aftermarket sensors that can be used to replace the motor mount bolts. Electrical connectors may be a problem.

If your stock ECU is going open loop, you'll be rich. Especially with the fuel pressure cranked up high. Once you go open loop, the voltage clamp isn't having any effect because the ECU is ignoring that signal.

What I would do in your case is take that TPS signal out of the J&S. Make sure your O2 clamp is working - your OBD-II scanner should show a reading of 0.39V for O21 when you're closed loop. Work on your fuel with that setup.

By the way, we're going to be including auxliliary fuel pumps with the kits now. It would be a good idea to throw one in.

Keith

 

[1sty]

I assume you have the scamatic to wire in the pump and such?
Whats the cost?
If we are already running rich why do we need an aux fuel pump?

 

[Keith@FP]

The instructions contain the information on wiring in the pump - you can download them from our website. We're putting together an installation kit for the pump - expect that on the site early next week. I just have to get approval for the pricing.

The stock fuel pump can continue to supply that much fuel pressure for a while, but it will weaken.

Keith

 

[1sty]

So with the aux fuel pump we can go to 10 PSI right






I'm kidding!

 

[LinuxRacr]

Knock sensors are basically little microphones. Don't just hang them off brackets. We've got some aftermarket sensors that can be used to replace the motor mount bolts. Electrical connectors may be a problem.

Keith

Are the ones you have the Bosch Knock Sensors with the hole in the middle for a bolt? How effective are knock sensors mounted on the motor mount bolts? The wiring would not be a problem. To run the knock sensor with the J&S it has to have a reference voltage, and the other wire (signal I suppose).

Thanks for the info!

 

[LinuxRacr]

The instructions contain the information on wiring in the pump - you can download them from our website. We're putting together an installation kit for the pump - expect that on the site early next week. I just have to get approval for the pricing.

The stock fuel pump can continue to supply that much fuel pressure for a while, but it will weaken.

Keith

So are you gonna include these in the original 10 kits?

 

[John at J&S]

TPS and knock sensor

LinuxRacr:

We can change the point where the unit pulls the TPS signal high. Right now, it's set for 0 psi. Sounds like it might be too early?

Here's a photo of a sensor kit that should work for you. It's a Bosch sensor, nine foot shielded cable, and custom adapter bolt. The large end of the adapter bolt has 10x1.25mm threads.

The shield has been connected to the black lead, which is then grounded at the J&S connector. The white lead is the sensor output.

 

[LinuxRacr]

John,

Welcome to the site! Is that adapter specially made for knock sensor galley on the FS block, or is it to go on the engine mount? Will I have to drill and tap a new hole?

Thanks for the info.

 

[PortCityMP3]

So are you gonna include these in the original 10 kits?

corky should!!

 

[Keith@FP]

Guys, if you buy a prototype kit, don't expect it to be the same as a finished product. It's why you saved so much money.

Keith

 

[John at J&S]

The Bosch knock sensor is designed to be mounted to the engine with a through bolt. The diameter of the hole in the sensor is 8mm.

Preferably, you would pick an unused, tapped, 8mm hole. If you can't find one, look for an unused, tapped, 10x1.25mm hole, for the adapter bolt.

You could also mount the sensor under an existing bolt. Prolly have to get one that's about 3/4 inch longer.

 

[Keith@FP]

Looking at the photos, that's the same sensor we use. We've got an adaptor that allows it to be attached in place of an engine mount. Works quite nicely on hundreds of Miatas, should probably work on the Protege.

(edit) nope, not the same sensor. But the adaptor is compatible.

Keith

 

[igdrasil]

Nice brainstorming, we should put this in a white paper @ finish.

 

[70]

Cool stuff...Bringing the people who make this stuff together to get everything set up just right in an opne forum such as this.

 

[nobody]

On the MP3 some amount of timing retardation is needed for totally safe running at 6 psi on 91 octane gas...

At 93 octane some retardation will be needed for running higher than six to be on the safe side in the MP3 as well.

And it is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in the FM kits. Not an FMU...

Hmmmmm...if this is not an FMU, how does the kit get it's fuel enrichment????? which is the bigger injectors/piggy back ecu/bigger pump/......................??? maybe u r trying to say this is a adjustable rate FMU!

 

[John at J&S]

Keith: I just scoped out your knock sensor kit. It looks like a similar concept for the adapter bolt. Do you know what the thread pitch is on the big end?

By the way, can you recommend a better trip point at which to pull the TPS wire up? I picked 0 psi out of thin air, as a starting point.