Is there a how to for the 626 intake mani install??
- Thread starter 619MSP
- Start date
KrayzieFox
Member
- :
- 01 MP3 Turbo
First, make sure you have a new intake manifold and throttle body gasket. Do not reuse the old stock ones.
Second, make sure you have the right EGR pipe as the stock one will no longer fit.
Then take a bunch of pictures of make a diagram of the vacuum routing and solenoid/plug color combinations. Hooking stuff back up can get confusing and pictures help a lot in my opinion. Take off the strut bar, cold pipe, and fuel rail. You might need new injector o-ring spacers as well as it will be very likely that you will damage a couple during the install. Disconnect the throttle cable and coolant lines off the throttle body then take off the brake booster line.
Oh you'll need a new booster line or modify your stock one to fit, but make sure that you reinstall it in the same orientation. There's a check valve inside it and air is only supposed to flow one way to prevent pressure generated by the turbo from entering the brake booster.
Once you have everything disconnected off the manifold and throttle body, you just pull off the manifold. But removing the stock manifold can seriously suck with the EGR pipe attached and the EGR pipe is damn near impossible to get to without the manifold off. So you'll want to take off the manifold in pieces. The stocker is a 2-piece mani so undo all the bolts you see and you should be able to pull out the top part, then wiggle out the bottom part with the EGR pipe attached somehow.
Remove the throttle body and clean up the old gasket residue using a wire wheel or dremmel if you have one. Don't use a screwdriver or something stupid like that to chisel it off, you'll just damage the surfaces. Do the same on the head and new 626 manifold if it's used. This part is very important!! If you don't clean the mating surfaces well enough you'll end up with a massive leak and your car will either idle and run like s***, or rev out of control. New gaskets and clean mating surfaces are key here.
So yeah, just install the new stuff now. The bead on the manifold gasket should face the head in case you wonder about that. The 626 goes back on much much easier but you'll want to run the EGR pipe through before you put in the manifold, then loosely put on the manifold and get the EGR nut going. It's a 26 mm and the beauty about the 626 mani is that is has sooo much space underneath it compared to stock that you can actually fit a massive 26 mm wrench from the passenger side and get to the EGR nut to finish tightening it. Reconnect the throttle cable, coolant lines, brake booster line, all the plugs and solenoids, and vacuum lines, then reinstall the fuel rail. You'll need use 2 of the stock 4 rail mounting locations and you'll need to get creative with the vacuum routing. You can get it pretty close to stock but the 626 has less ports so you'll need to tap a couple lines or something.
Good luck
Second, make sure you have the right EGR pipe as the stock one will no longer fit.
Then take a bunch of pictures of make a diagram of the vacuum routing and solenoid/plug color combinations. Hooking stuff back up can get confusing and pictures help a lot in my opinion. Take off the strut bar, cold pipe, and fuel rail. You might need new injector o-ring spacers as well as it will be very likely that you will damage a couple during the install. Disconnect the throttle cable and coolant lines off the throttle body then take off the brake booster line.
Oh you'll need a new booster line or modify your stock one to fit, but make sure that you reinstall it in the same orientation. There's a check valve inside it and air is only supposed to flow one way to prevent pressure generated by the turbo from entering the brake booster.
Once you have everything disconnected off the manifold and throttle body, you just pull off the manifold. But removing the stock manifold can seriously suck with the EGR pipe attached and the EGR pipe is damn near impossible to get to without the manifold off. So you'll want to take off the manifold in pieces. The stocker is a 2-piece mani so undo all the bolts you see and you should be able to pull out the top part, then wiggle out the bottom part with the EGR pipe attached somehow.
Remove the throttle body and clean up the old gasket residue using a wire wheel or dremmel if you have one. Don't use a screwdriver or something stupid like that to chisel it off, you'll just damage the surfaces. Do the same on the head and new 626 manifold if it's used. This part is very important!! If you don't clean the mating surfaces well enough you'll end up with a massive leak and your car will either idle and run like s***, or rev out of control. New gaskets and clean mating surfaces are key here.
So yeah, just install the new stuff now. The bead on the manifold gasket should face the head in case you wonder about that. The 626 goes back on much much easier but you'll want to run the EGR pipe through before you put in the manifold, then loosely put on the manifold and get the EGR nut going. It's a 26 mm and the beauty about the 626 mani is that is has sooo much space underneath it compared to stock that you can actually fit a massive 26 mm wrench from the passenger side and get to the EGR nut to finish tightening it. Reconnect the throttle cable, coolant lines, brake booster line, all the plugs and solenoids, and vacuum lines, then reinstall the fuel rail. You'll need use 2 of the stock 4 rail mounting locations and you'll need to get creative with the vacuum routing. You can get it pretty close to stock but the 626 has less ports so you'll need to tap a couple lines or something.
Good luck
speedy gonzales
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed proteg
Stay with the stocker and delete the VTCS you will have better result.626 mani is by far the worst mod I've done and now with the stock mani without VTCS the power is back and all this is dynoed thrust me.
vtcs?
