is a flywheel necessary?

but the only problem with that example is that you added Underdrive pulleys in there as well.. Which adds to another aspect of inconclusiveness. It would be hard to tell if it was the flywheel and high boost combination that made it crack or the underdrive pulley and flywheel combo that made it crack. underdrive pulleys are another subject full of myths... (dunno)
 
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Familia323 said:
but the only problem with that example is that you added Underdrive pulleys in there as well.. Which adds to another aspect of inconclusiveness. It would be hard to tell if it was the flywheel and high boost combination that made it crack or the underdrive pulley and flywheel combo that made it crack. underdrive pulleys are another subject full of myths... (dunno)

Very good point...Bottom line is, in this stage of FS tuning we are no where near the 300+whp or so that those guys were popping engines with...whether or not the flywheel and pullies were responsible for it is all part of the "myth", so who knows...

So I guess I never should have brought it up...I just touched on it, because depending on who you talk to it more than likely will eventually get brought up...
 
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We should appoint some test subjects on this to benefit our community.

What do you say guys? Who wants to try and purposely ruin their engines with an underdrive pulley, flywheel, high boost, or a combination of the 3?? Come on its for a good cause!? (rofl2)
 
Awesome thread, great info. It seems like the JDM flywheel would be the best "in between" option. Did anyone ever get the definite answer for how much the stock flywheel weighs?

~brian
 
i have the JDM flywheel now and there is virtually no change or difference in performance. The JDM is two pounds lighter than stock.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
i have the JDM flywheel now and there is virtually no change or difference in performance. The JDM is two pounds lighter than stock.
that sounds about right... the general equation that I've heard is approximately every 1 pound taken off of the weight connected to the crank = ~1.5hp so a 2 pound difference would offer you 3hp at best (by the equation) and even the butt dyno will hardly feel that by the time its transferred to the wheels :D

edit: I just wanted to clarify; when I say that it "= ~1.5hp' I mean that it "frees" about 1.5hp not that it makes it. the idea of the flywheel is just to reduce the degree of loss from your engine having to rotate all of its own mass...
 
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I personally think that cars feel more fun with lighter flywheels. Which is why I'm going to buy one of the 9lb flywheels soon. Why put money into a car if its not fun right?
 
Alot of people here are running lighter FW's. Some do experience stalling issues from non recovering decells but it is not that bad. Personally I like to keep the heavier unit in for the street. Helps in my day to day city driving.
 
perfworks said:
Alot of people here are running lighter FW's. Some do experience stalling issues from non recovering decells but it is not that bad. Personally I like to keep the heavier unit in for the street. Helps in my day to day city driving.
Except you dont need every little bit of help you can get for performance, since you drive a 300+ hp Evo.. jerk :p j/k
 
PhreakMP5 said:
that sounds about right... the general equation that I've heard is approximately every 1 pound taken off of the weight connected to the crank = ~1.5hp so a 2 pound difference would offer you 3hp at best (by the equation) and even the butt dyno will hardly feel that by the time its transferred to the wheels :D

edit: I just wanted to clarify; when I say that it "= ~1.5hp' I mean that it "frees" about 1.5hp not that it makes it. the idea of the flywheel is just to reduce the degree of loss from your engine having to rotate all of its own mass...

The general consensus seems to steer away from the actual power "free'd up" from the lighter flywheel...In first and second, it will feel extremely noticable...The affects of the flywheel can be directly correlated with the ratio of the used gear...meaning, you won't feel crap in 5th, but you will notice it big time in first...Dyno's do little to illustrate the gains achieved, especially runs in 3rd gear that show pretty much nothing...But applying the equations used on some websites, a 9lb flywheel in first gear is about the equivalent of freeing up about 250lbs of curb weight in 1st gear...The weight advantage is proportional to the gearing also...
 
The way that I look at it is that the engine will rev much quicker. The heavier flyweel that people put on Mustangs for a stonger launch gets them off the line faster because there is a much larger amount of momentum and stored energy when the clutch is disengaged. The problem is that (at least with my car, even though it's stock) I can tear up my tires all day long off the line. Adding more torque to a launch won't help me but to impress the neighbor's kids. I'd rather have the increased throttle response that comes with the reduced inertia on the end of the crank.

I think that a lot of it is subject to what the person wants. Yes, you will need to get used to driving the car again if the flywheel is a bunch lighter, but once you do, you'll be able to snap though the gears quicker and not tear uo your clutch as much. You may also like the fact that it will be easier to get the RPM's up in second gear without cutting the tires loose right away. There is a smoother transition of power.
 
midnightracr said:
The only real advantage of a lightened flywheel would have to be that it helps a turbo spool faster. On a N/A car it's the last thing u would want it would take away a lot of your torque


There's almost no truth in this post.
 
umm okay ive gone around in circles about the flywheel thing OKAY..


Protege 5 (n/a) = best fly wheel lbs. or best fly wheel to get??
 
if you are gonna get a flywheel... get something that is gonna make a difference(ex. really light) or dont get one at all. For the average person I dont really see why you would want to spend a butt load of cash on something thats 5 lbs lighter.
 

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