Intake potential issues?

[knokout5]

Hey guys,

So I'm considering a CPe short ram intake..have been pm-ing a seller ..I basically just want this single mod to my ms3, which only has 5.5k miles on it. I just got off the phone with the dealer about warranty issues and they said what i expected to hear - if it causes the problem, warranty gone, you pay out of your pocket. But one thing I did learn today was that dealer-installed mazdaspeed accessories are only covered for 12mo/12k miles!! I thought it was until your car warranty went out but definitely not going with mazdaspeed CAI now.

I've been doing my share of research and although performance/sounds are to lust over, I still can't decide if I should get it...Reasons being:
-car is new..problems will void warranty and extended warranty for that matter
-ppl have reported surge problems, possibly needing aftermarket bov
-people say you need to reset your ecu

Should I get it? Wait a few years? Not get it unless I plan on bov, ecu, etc?

Thanks!
Mike

 

[b00bs for n00bs]

with an intake like the nano (cp-e's short ram) it's super easy to revert back to stock for dealer visits if you are indeed worried about warranty.
lots of dealerships don't give a s*** about the law in terms of, "if the part causes a problem, then goodbye warranty," and they normally adopt the attitude of, "if you have aftermarket parts on the car and you come in with a problem, goodbye warranty," regardless of what the law says.
your concerns are somewhat valid, especially regarding warranty.
surge? not with a properly sized maf. the nano is fine.
resetting the ecu is simple and doesn't even need to be a concern of yours.
two schools of though:
1) reset the ecu after every mod
2) who gives a ****
i prefer the latter. my ecu only gets reset if i need to take the battery out or off.
resetting the ecu is as simple as disconnecting the negative terminal for 20 minutes or so. probably even quicker, but whatever.
go get an intake.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Get it. An intake is arguably the best first mod you can do to this car. It makes a considerable bump in horsepower over the restrictive stock box and you can really hear the turbo spool. It is an easy install and, therefore, can be taken off for dealer visits. To reset your ECU all you have to do is remove the negative battery terminal, drain the charge from the system (step on the brake petal for a couple seconds), then reconnect it. After that, go easy on the car for 100 miles, then you're free to romp on it.

 

[allanp]

I don't want to hijack your thread,but I have a question ?? As a NOOB from what I've read even with a reset ECU the programming will eventually revert back to the factory parameters. Here's a blurb pulled off another site(if I may).


"We now understand that we can allow the turbo to pull air easier by cutting down on certain restrictions from the intake end and exhaust end. But there's one important thing to keep in mind. Every flow measurement (air, fuel, timing, boost, etc...) is constantly being monitored by the ECU. It is programmed to run at specific Air/Fuel ratios. And the stock A/F ratio is VERY rich (meaning excess fuel). So even if you INCREASE the air coming in and assume its leaning out. Yes, it is, slightly... But the ECU will eventually correct itself once it detects an out-of-norm ratio, or a knock. This is why people are told to RESET their ECU after adding a modification. So as soon as you punch the throttle, you will feel a VERY notable difference... but as time goes on, that ecu will have retarded timing and adapted to the change."

"My advice is simple: Each mod you add mentioned above will give you a gain. How much of a gain is to be taken with a grain of salt. Dyno's show an immediate pull, not an adapted pull. Take horsepower and torque graphs for what they are, but do not expect these gains to add up perfectly. Overtime these parts that you spend money on will no longer do what they used to, because your ECU will not allow it. Just because an intake is CAPABLE of drawing more air in, doesn't mean it will."

"To get the MOST out of your mods, or even the most out of your vehicle in stock trim, invest in a good Engine Management option. This will allow you to run tunes SPECIFICALLY designed to work with components that allow a freer flowing exhaust, intake, etc... In other words, you will ACTUALLY be running a leaner map and taking full advantage of your mods, while maintaining stock-like reliability. I don't want to name drop, because people here already know my choice of tuner. And since this is an informational thread, I've tried my hardest to keep Brand Names out and Information in."

So if I'm intrepreting this correctly an AP (or equiv) is required for permanent performance increases.
Allan

 

[coyfish]

I don't want to hijack your thread,but I have a question ?? As a NOOB from what I've read even with a reset ECU the programming will eventually revert back to the factory parameters. Here's a blurb pulled off another site(if I may).


"We now understand that we can allow the turbo to pull air easier by cutting down on certain restrictions from the intake end and exhaust end. But there's one important thing to keep in mind. Every flow measurement (air, fuel, timing, boost, etc...) is constantly being monitored by the ECU. It is programmed to run at specific Air/Fuel ratios. And the stock A/F ratio is VERY rich (meaning excess fuel). So even if you INCREASE the air coming in and assume its leaning out. Yes, it is, slightly... But the ECU will eventually correct itself once it detects an out-of-norm ratio, or a knock. This is why people are told to RESET their ECU after adding a modification. So as soon as you punch the throttle, you will feel a VERY notable difference... but as time goes on, that ecu will have retarded timing and adapted to the change."

"My advice is simple: Each mod you add mentioned above will give you a gain. How much of a gain is to be taken with a grain of salt. Dyno's show an immediate pull, not an adapted pull. Take horsepower and torque graphs for what they are, but do not expect these gains to add up perfectly. Overtime these parts that you spend money on will no longer do what they used to, because your ECU will not allow it. Just because an intake is CAPABLE of drawing more air in, doesn't mean it will."

"To get the MOST out of your mods, or even the most out of your vehicle in stock trim, invest in a good Engine Management option. This will allow you to run tunes SPECIFICALLY designed to work with components that allow a freer flowing exhaust, intake, etc... In other words, you will ACTUALLY be running a leaner map and taking full advantage of your mods, while maintaining stock-like reliability. I don't want to name drop, because people here already know my choice of tuner. And since this is an informational thread, I've tried my hardest to keep Brand Names out and Information in."

So if I'm intrepreting this correctly an AP (or equiv) is required for permanent performance increases.
Allan

What that more or less is saying is that mods aren't additive. if you add an intake (20whp) a TMIC (20whp) and a downpipe(30whp) . . . that doesn't mean you have +70whp. It just doesn't work that way. But rest assured everything you do to increase the efficiency of the engine will net you power. Im untuned still and at 280whp which is 45whp over a stock run.

With an EMS the efficiency of your car as per your modifications will be maximized by adjusting fueling, timing, and other parameters.


As for the OP don't worry about an intake. I wouldn't tell your dealer about it though. If you must then just install a warranty safe mazdaspeed intake. The intake only takes about 30 min to install. Ive taken it in and out a ton and it only takes me like 10 min now.

 

[hectik1]

Get it. An intake is arguably the best first mod you can do to this car. It makes a considerable bump in horsepower over the restrictive stock box and you can really hear the turbo spool. It is an easy install and, therefore, can be taken off for dealer visits. To reset your ECU all you have to do is remove the negative battery terminal, drain the charge from the system (step on the brake petal for a couple seconds), then reconnect it. After that, go easy on the car for 100 miles, then you're free to romp on it.

The stock airbox isn't as restrictive as everyone says....

 

[spec2k5]

Hey guys,

So I'm considering a CPe short ram intake..have been pm-ing a seller ..I basically just want this single mod to my ms3, which only has 5.5k miles on it. I just got off the phone with the dealer about warranty issues and they said what i expected to hear - if it causes the problem, warranty gone, you pay out of your pocket. But one thing I did learn today was that dealer-installed mazdaspeed accessories are only covered for 12mo/12k miles!! I thought it was until your car warranty went out but definitely not going with mazdaspeed CAI now.

I've been doing my share of research and although performance/sounds are to lust over, I still can't decide if I should get it...Reasons being:
-car is new..problems will void warranty and extended warranty for that matter
-ppl have reported surge problems, possibly needing aftermarket bov
-people say you need to reset your ecu

Should I get it? Wait a few years? Not get it unless I plan on bov, ecu, etc?

Thanks!
Mike

I have a mscai that I installed and the dealership has not given me any issues. I have had warranty work done, and they actually installed the air straightener at one point, for free. I would not worry about the intake. but if you are worried, get a mazdaspeed specific part.

 

[knokout5]

thanks for all your input guys..only thing is that my dealership has this "advantage" program as long as I get all my services done there. ie. engine warranty for LIFE, free oil changes for 3 yr/36k miles, etc...if i come in for oil changes with them seeing my intake, and then one day i come in with a problem with the stock one, think theyll know to throw a fit?

 

[MSMS3]

The stock airbox isn't as restrictive as everyone says....

I respectfully disagree. It is extremely restrictive. There are way too many dyno pulls and acceleration runs posted here that show how dramatic the change is. Even Car and Driver magazine and Road and Track magazine both did before and after dyno pulls with the stock airbox and the MSCAI and found hp and torque gains in the range of 15-20 hp and 20+ torque, or better.

On the dragstrip or with time, speed, distance runs with stopwatch or accelerometers aftermarket intakes alone drop 0-60 times by two tenths of a second and quarter mile times by 2-3 tenths of a second and raise trap speeds by several miles per hour.

What is really important to me is the additive effect of mods that begin with a good high-flow intake. No, you can't add the numbers, like 20 for this and 20 for that equals 40. But, the high-flow intake is the basic building block needed to take advantage of gains available from later mods. For instance, don't tell me that the permanent gains I get from simple intake and dp/rp are not real. There is no way the dp/rp mod will work to address the severe restriction in the dp/rp and factory cats, if the air flow on the intake side is held below the cfm capabilities of the exhaust side of the turbo.

Engines are air pumps. More air in, more fuel added, more power built, more exhaust going out the downpipe. The stock ecu will tell the injectors to add more fuel to match the extra oxygen intake, within set parameters, which are actually pretty generous (subject more to the limits of the fuel pump), to meet AFR targets, provided there is a corresponding ability to get the increased exhaust generated out of the engine.

Any time you can use simple relatively inexpensive intake and exhaust mods to knock two whole seconds off of 0-100 mph times and still run the stock ECU, stock BPV and stock CBE, you have done something positive, IMHO.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

I respectfully disagree.

I do too. How else are people picking up gains in the range of 20 WHP with just an intake?

 

[coyfish]

thanks for all your input guys..only thing is that my dealership has this "advantage" program as long as I get all my services done there. ie. engine warranty for LIFE, free oil changes for 3 yr/36k miles, etc...if i come in for oil changes with them seeing my intake, and then one day i come in with a problem with the stock one, think theyll know to throw a fit?

Well first of all most people don't go to the dealer for oil changes. They charge too much. I just follow the manual and have done what mazda recommends. The dealer never see's my car and if heaven forbid I have an issue ill revert to stock and take it in.

Why don't you look into a mazdaspeed intake ?? They are slightly more expensive, unless you can fine one used on the forums, but you don't have to worry about warranty.

 

[b00bs for n00bs]

i want to know what mr su has to say about the intakes

 

[knokout5]

also, oiled vs dryflow? seems like everyone goes with the dryflow just cuz its easier..any advantages for either?

i feel like im gonna wait to use up some of my free oil changes at the dealer, and then put on a SRI...and some other mods probably =P

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Yeah... I'd say go dryflow... it's just easier.

Also... see what your dealer's policy on mods is before you get your undies in a bunch over this whole SRI deal... Your dealer might be more lenient with your modding if you are open about it to them... also, if you give them your buisness and get your oil and regular maintenance done there... they might be more inclined to keep your warranty intact.

Also, other mods you could do (if you feel so adventerous) are:
A rear motor mount,
a short shifter or short shift plate.
A boost gauge or dashhawk is always nice.
A test pipe is a good way to start freeing up the exhaust.
And a Turbo inlet pipe is a very nice way of finishing off the intake.
Also, with those mods you might need a new BPV to better hold the extra boost you are holding with those less restrictive mods.

 

[Design]

But one thing I did learn today was that dealer-installed mazdaspeed accessories are only covered for 12mo/12k miles!! I thought it was until your car warranty went out but definitely not going with mazdaspeed CAI now.

The 12K warranty applies to the intake components only. It does not affect the existing 36/60K warranties except in rare circumstances of negligence associated with owner installation/maintenance.

CPE makes well engineered products, and I doubt you'd have a problem with their intake. Regardless, Mazda is more likely to stand behind their own accessories than an aftermarket one. Whether you feel that's worth the price is up to you.

 

[knokout5]

thanks for all the info everyone. will consider everything!

 

[creedns]

Your only worry should be that these cars suck dick and blow up for no ******* reason. Im countin down the minutes til mine tick tick booms. But **** it go for it man intakes sound sick lol