Installed TurboXS Fuel Cut Defender!!

[AutoXRacer]

So, I spent 12 hours on Saturday installing the TurboXS Fuel Cut Defender and a Prosport premium electronic gauge.

Here is a picture of the TurboXS FCD:

Since the installation requires you to cut the MAP signal wire (white/mint green w/ silver speck), I did not want to do it at the ECU harness. I thought maybe the MAP sensor has some wires off of it, but to my disappointment, it didn't. Its a solids state sensor which the harness connects directly to it.

So I decided to get a little creative and make a harness with a jumper. That way, when I do get the standback, I can just unplug the TurboXS FCD and install the jumper and I'm back to stock.

Here is the wiring all reconnected and my jumper installed:

Since the TurboXS FCD is meant to be wired into the cabin, I decided to make a harness for it:

Here is the engine end connected:

To run the lines through the firewall was a nightmare!! I used the hood release cable hole, but since my harness was a little thick it made things a little more frustrating. But at the end it got done and everything went well.

For power to the TurboXS FCD and the gauge, I tapped into the passenger fuse box. With one of those add a power line/fuse adapters, I tapped into a fuse labeled "Sunroof", since I don't have one, I thought that would be the best one. It provides 12V power on ignition only; no accessory. I thought this would be ideal since I don't need my gauge powered when my other dashboard cluster doesn't power either. Anyway, seems like everything is working.

Here is the finished product:

I placed my gauge on the steering column for now...waiting on these pod vents to get released into the market. Though, from the pictures it looks deceiving, it does not obstruct my rpm nor my speedo. And no, my DashHawk does not block the fuel gauge either...just the odometer. I can't wait to move it to the a/c vent since the dashboard cluster looks cluttered. :thumbsdown:

I haven't tested the TurboXS FCD yet...getting ready to run some errands shortly and will tune the unit and see how it works.

I won't be able to set the boost cut feature on it since I don't have a boost controller. Thats going in next weekend after my dyno for the post-flash dyno results. I didn't want to alter the boost control system to keep the pre and post dynos fair.

More to come... :top:

*****
Update:
*****

The TurboXS FCD will trigger a CEL if wired according to directions; same problems the MS6 guys had.

In order to not get any CELs, I had to wire the red wire with constant power. I was a little worried it would affect my battery, but after leaving it overnight, everything is well...

I will be calling TurboXS and talking to them about this issue. They assured me I wouldn't have any CELs. And I also need to ask whether this constant power will affect the FCD in any way.

More to come...

 

[AutoXRacer]

I just got off the phone with TurboXS...
They said I did good. Some cars need to be wired to a constant 12V power. They said its actually better for the FCD to be wired with constant power as opposed to off/on ACC.
They did warn me though that I need to be careful and not leave it plugged in the car for more than 3 weeks at a time without starting the car due to the possibility of it draining out the battery.
So to recap, you can use the TurboXS FCD on the Mazdaspeed 3, though you will have to wire it differently from the directions.
So far so good!!!

In order to clear 5th gear from any boost cut, I had to set my clamp at 12.61 PSI.

 

[LBV]

Good job man!

Why didn't you wire it into the wires coming off of the bottom of the map sensor? I just checked on my MS6 and there is a connector there ... maybe different on the MS3??

 

[aaronc7]

any reason you did this over a MAP clamp? just curious

 

[LBV]

The benefit of the TurboXS FCD over a plain map clamp is it allows you to ALSO set your boost cut back in again as a safety feature ... so for example, clamp the boost at 16, run it at 19, and set up the cut at 21 or 22 ... a few have blown their engines from overboosting into the high 20's or 30's and this would have prevented that.

 

[aaronc7]

gotcha, good deal

 

[AutoXRacer]

Good job man!

Why didn't you wire it into the wires coming off of the bottom of the map sensor? I just checked on my MS6 and there is a connector there ... maybe different on the MS3??

I was hoping the sensor had wires coming out of it, but it doesn't. The vehicle side connector mates directly into the sensor.

 

[AutoXRacer]

gotcha, good deal

I could have shown it to you yesterday... (doh)

 

[ericrapp]

Nicely done AutoX and some excellent work with the heat shrink. And since LBV mentioned the safety feature, nice choice on the modification. Let me know after a couple of weeks about your driving opinions! looking forward.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I will...so far I'm super happy that I no longer have boost cut!! (2thumbs)

 

[ericrapp]

No f'n doubt sir. and happy for you!

 

[borderline]

Sub!!

 

[Aaron@JSC]

cool post. you seem like you really know what you are doing with making harnesses and things like that.

so just to clarify-- you tapped the wire for the map sensor at the sensor extension on the passenger side of the engine bay, near the manifold?

 

[AutoXRacer]

cool post. you seem like you really know what you are doing with making harnesses and things like that.

so just to clarify-- you tapped the wire for the map sensor at the sensor extension on the passenger side of the engine bay, near the manifold?

Yes, I tapped the white and mint green with silver speck wire by the MAP sensor on the manifold by the passenger side. I would have been easier to do it at the ECU harness, but I wanted a way to revert back to stock and not seem obvious. So I decided to place a harness by the MAP sensor itself since its a little buried and can't really see it.

I did make a harness that connects at the MAP sensor connector and routes all the way into the cabin. Then I added another harness interface where the TurboXS wires end. So I can unplug the TurboXS FCD from inside the cabin and disconnect the whole wiring that routes from the MAP sensor into the cabin. So two harnesses (one at MAP sensor and another on the FCD device) and one long shielded cable housing with all the wires inside.

 

[ericrapp]

Nice work