Injen=worse Hesitation

Apexi said:
theyre available right now...things like the apexi s-afc, and s-afc II are both piggybacks..

neither of which will work on our car. hook one up and see- instant CEL and limp mode :(.
Joe
 
boostisgood said:
hey 1St, why dont you hook me up with the grounding kit, and lemme see if it works good for the MSP :D Ill even DYNO test it for ya on the 29th. :D
Sure no problem, I'll charge you half (wow)
Only $75 + shipping becuase your such a nice guy :D
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Injen=worse Hesitation

kwiktsi said:


hahah- I love it (rofl)(rofl)(rofl)

funny haha but i didnt believe it till my friend put one on his 180 and got about 5-10hp at the wheels average.
 
(lol) you said limp uhhh heheh heheheeheh

Im trying to decide what Im gonna go with for engine mgt. Biggyback or stand alone. I just cant decide.
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Injen=worse Hesitation

I-Am-Chris said:


funny haha but i didnt believe it till my friend put one on his 180 and got about 5-10hp at the wheels average.

Umm- what year and condition was the car in? Miles? other than that, umm.. Naahh, I think I'll pass :).
Joe
 
boostisgood said:
(lol) you said limp uhhh heheh heheheeheh

Im trying to decide what Im gonna go with for engine mgt. Biggyback or stand alone. I just cant decide.
Why does everyone want to make soo many changes?? The stock setup works as long as you know how to work with it. Damn, didn't you read my post about my times last night :)???

You think you have hesitation issues now- by the time you get all the coolant correction, air temp correction, fuel maps and timing maps right on a standalone, it will hesitate far worse than your MSP- and then the weather will change and you will realize you were off somewhere and have to start over again :).
joe
 
I Thought it was 100% BS too until I actualy took the time to measure the resistance form several ground points and found that they were OVER 20 ohms. That can't be good!
Now they are under .3 ohms everywhere!
 
kwiktsi said:


You think you have hesitation issues now- by the time you get all the coolant correction, air temp correction, fuel maps and timing maps right on a standalone, it will hesitate far worse than your MSP- and then the weather will change and you will realize you were off somewhere and have to start over again :).
joe

Great Joe, ruin my reason for putting my laptop in my car. Boy take all the fun out of wasting money don't ya ;)
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
I Thought it was 100% BS too until I actualy took the time to measure the resistance form several ground points and found that they were OVER 20 ohms. That can't be good!
Now they are under .3 ohms everywhere!

I believe it, but the ECU measures the voltage going in and out, so it compensates for changes. Maybe if you just get some wire and do it yourself, but never would I buy one of those over priced Inje...- oops, Ground Wire kits :) :) :).

Besides, after you do the grounds, look at all the positive leads you hve going from pin to pin to connector to connector and tell me there is no loss there also :).
Joe
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:


Great Joe, ruin my reason for putting my laptop in my car. Boy take all the fun out of wasting money don't ya ;)

Hahah- I had to just go with a power invertor since the batteries kept dying in my laptop while tuning the Talon for drivability :). The laptop pretty much resided on the passenger seat for a couple months.
Joe
 
kwiktsi said:


I believe it, but the ECU measures the voltage going in and out, so it compensates for changes. Maybe if you just get some wire and do it yourself, but never would I buy one of those over priced Inje...- oops, Ground Wire kits :) :) :).

Besides, after you do the grounds, look at all the positive leads you hve going from pin to pin to connector to connector and tell me there is no loss there also :).
Joe

Was not suggesting it helps the ECU stop bogging, that was a joke :p

I have no clue what it will do, don't care really. People asked me for it, they got it.
Would lowing the resistance and actualy providing and ENGINE GROUND, there is none stock hurt? Can only help.
 
AE86 GEAT CAR!!!!! And hey no prob. We're cool. Always love to talk to fellow MSPers about cars. As for drifting, I hope they bring the Renault Clio sports v6. The only damn thing is that it's a french company, but hey they own nissan so that can't be bad.
 
1St Im dissapointed man. Good grounds are the MOST important item in any audio/performance car. Remember, in a dcurrent, power actually goes from negative to positive. So if you dont have a good ground, you dont get as much power out to where it is needed. :D
 
Well I didn't want to thread Hijack, but since you insist!

The actual flow wouln't matter as a resistor (bad ground) in a circuit will cuase a power drop regardless. Kirchoffs Voltage Law.
Standard current flow does use (+) -> (1) where as scientific uses (-) -> (+) the differences of which are only seen on a level niether of us could ever easily understand.

A better gound in the engine bay is only worth a damn if there are electronics that are grounded in the engine bay trying to refernece the battery and wouldn't you know it there is!

The big one is tha alternator as it uses the engine to ground, the problem is THERE IS NO ENGINE GROUND! (thumb)
The factory ground from the battery is to a chinsy metal bracket on and engine mout fastened to the tranny not the engine.
So if the Alternator must power through a 20 ohm resistance form a teriblle factory grouns then gains will obviously be made in power tranfer. Does that mena HP, it should. The alternator is harder to spin as you increas the demand on it. A lack of low resistant ground is a major restriction and increases the needed load of any electrical circuit. Giveing it a better path to ground will lessen its load and allow it to spin easier requiring less hp to turn it so thats more power for use.

There are several sensors that use engine ground. Some had 20 ohms to work through before getting to the engine. If an audio system ground was that bad, screw noise, it probably wouldn't turn on! Giving these sensors a better path might not get you horse power but it will lessen there current demand and should make there readings more acurate.

HEADLIGHTS, we have all seen those bastards dim to half intensity when the fans kicked on right?
I never even noticed the fan did kick on last night!
Give the fans and lights less restrictive paths and they will perfoma better and also be less of a load.

I am not making HP claims, this is simple electronics I am describing, thats it. If you think its crap, i can send you a kite to go fly, as i don't care :p. If you want one buy ione of the other 300 of the damn things, I need my sleep :D.
If you want the kit and you believe in it and you want one that won't rust out and is made for our cars then let me know.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Well I didn't want to thread Hijack, but since you insist!

The actual flow wouln't matter as a resistor (bad ground) in a circuit will cuase a power drop regardless. Kirchoffs Voltage Law.
Standard current flow does use (+) -> (1) where as scientific uses (-) -> (+) the differences of which are only seen on a level niether of us could ever easily understand.

A better gound in the engine bay is only worth a damn if there are electronics that are grounded in the engine bay trying to refernece the battery and wouldn't you know it there is!

The big one is tha alternator as it uses the engine to ground, the problem is THERE IS NO ENGINE GROUND! (thumb)
The factory ground from the battery is to a chinsy metal bracket on and engine mout fastened to the tranny not the engine.
So if the Alternator must power through a 20 ohm resistance form a teriblle factory grouns then gains will obviously be made in power tranfer. Does that mena HP, it should. The alternator is harder to spin as you increas the demand on it. A lack of low resistant ground is a major restriction and increases the needed load of any electrical circuit. Giveing it a better path to ground will lessen its load and allow it to spin easier requiring less hp to turn it so thats more power for use.

There are several sensors that use engine ground. Some had 20 ohms to work through before getting to the engine. If an audio system ground was that bad, screw noise, it probably wouldn't turn on! Giving these sensors a better path might not get you horse power but it will lessen there current demand and should make there readings more acurate.

HEADLIGHTS, we have all seen those bastards dim to half intensity when the fans kicked on right?
I never even noticed the fan did kick on last night!
Give the fans and lights less restrictive paths and they will perfoma better and also be less of a load.

I am not making HP claims, this is simple electronics I am describing, thats it. If you think its crap, i can send you a kite to go fly, as i don't care :p. If you want one buy ione of the other 300 of the damn things, I need my sleep :D.
If you want the kit and you believe in it and you want one that won't rust out and is made for our cars then let me know.

I never considered alternator load. I was thinking people were claiming gains due to ECU grounding, etc.. You have a very valid point there..
Joe
 
kwiktsi said:


I was thinking people were claiming gains due to ECU grounding, etc..
Joe
NO WAY!
It would have to ground in the engine bay to be any effect at all on it. Its a bad program, nothing a ground can do unless its the inacurate readings of a sensor grounded in the engine bay that is the problem. Even if the sensor is in the engine bay, if it ground through the ECu this will have no affect If you replace the body side ground on the battery, add the negative battery terminal add on for that :D.
 
Of coarse since I have a mack truck alternator, I am still screwed!
 
Did someone say AE86? hahaha

I'll probably drag up a bunch of mixed reactions for this...but mind telling me where you bought the injen intake boost? I'm looking for the kit for my brother's MSP. Though I'll wait to see if your hesitation problem is sorted out before I do get one.
 
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