I just spent an hour trying to put my Racing Harts back on... it took me 20 minutes to get one friggin steelie off, and that's as far as I got... I couldn't get the next one to budge because they were rusted on, so i said **** it. Now i'm PISSED... is there any kind of spray that will dissolve the rust, or do I just have to kick it? I tried kicking it but I was afraid i'd knock it off the jack.. any tips? (pissed)
I want my summer tires back on... BUT
- Thread starter slyydrr
- Start date
Welcome to Michigan mechanics! The best thing you can do is get a fairly heavy rubber mallot and just keep thumping on the rim in different spots. Eventually it will break free and you should be able to wiggle it off. Don't Kick it because you will knock it off the jack and probably wont budge the wheel.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
aiken said:
I've had the same thing happen....make sure you have something under the car other than the jack & your leg (
)..like a spare tire (it will keep your car from crashing straight to the ground if the jack does give out), and then just give it some steady thumps (don't try to kill it though) from the back side, and if you can, rotate the tire a bit & continue....it will eventually come loose.
)..like a spare tire (it will keep your car from crashing straight to the ground if the jack does give out), and then just give it some steady thumps (don't try to kill it though) from the back side, and if you can, rotate the tire a bit & continue....it will eventually come loose.SpeedMcheen
Member
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- MSP '03.5
Go to HomeDepot and buy some penetrating oil. It erodes rust and loosens locked nut and bolt threads.
computerGeek
Banned
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- Your Mom
liquid Wrench sears or any hardware store. works wonders!!!!
Thanks guys, based on some mixed advice that I've gotten.. I've decided to do the following... tell me if it sounds like a good idea:
- buy floor jack
- get some of the liquid wrench stuff
- once jacked up, give it a good hit or two (floor jack should support it for this apparently?)
Yes no?
- buy floor jack
- get some of the liquid wrench stuff
- once jacked up, give it a good hit or two (floor jack should support it for this apparently?)
Yes no?
)Sounds good...liberally squirt the Liquid Wrench/penetrating oil in there and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then go at it.
I used silicon spray (because it was on hand) on my wife's car and it worked ok -- although I still had to wrestle with it.
Then make a note for next year: smear grease on the face of your hubs before installing the steelies -- then they won't rust on. I also do this for aluminum rims too...they seem to come off easier with the grease. Just DO NOT grease the studs -- only the face of the hub itself.
I used silicon spray (because it was on hand) on my wife's car and it worked ok -- although I still had to wrestle with it.
Then make a note for next year: smear grease on the face of your hubs before installing the steelies -- then they won't rust on. I also do this for aluminum rims too...they seem to come off easier with the grease. Just DO NOT grease the studs -- only the face of the hub itself.
computerGeek
Banned
- :
- Your Mom
liquid wrench is a lil squirtbottle thingy and won't go anywhere other than you put it except for amaybe dripping down the hubs!
computerGeek
Banned
- :
- Your Mom
i nearly pissed myself laughing at that here at work!!!!
Also hand brake doesn't hold on the lugs!
Also hand brake doesn't hold on the lugs!
EASY ON THE SPRAYING!!! DO NOT GREASE your HUBS!!!
For removal:
Use liquid wrench or WD40 if you have to, but be SURE to use brake cleaner when you're done to remove all residue, or your brake pads will piss themselves and not stop you well. Small amounts of lube on the rotors (or pads) can also cause a throbbing brake pedal and WILL wreck your pads.
When re-installing the wheel, use the grey anti-sieze instead (better for high temps, doesn't migrate as much), and use it SPARINGLY. The centripetal force (most call it "centrifugal force", but it's "centripetal") can cause grease to spin out of the hub and onto the rotor, impeding braking. You may think that grease is thick and won't migrate, but it thins with even slightly higher temperatures, and can be carried by water. Anti-seize is a little better. Whichever you apply, use it SPARINGLY. Put it on and wipe it off, you only need a thin film.
I've found one area that binds on many cars is actually not the rotor/wheel interface, but rather the center bore/rotor interface, especially if the wheel fits really well. Anti-sieze that area, but again do it SPARINGLY. You do NOT want this stuff on your braking surfaces.
Hope this helps. Other than that, use JACKSTANDS - and what I do is to leave the jack in place but put most of the car's weight on the jackstands (belt and suspenders). Be extra careful with the BFH though, you can easily do damage to the wheel surface (and even to the bearings) if you're way too brutal. Hit around and around and around, it sometimes takes time. The liquid wrench takes time to work as well.
For removal:
Use liquid wrench or WD40 if you have to, but be SURE to use brake cleaner when you're done to remove all residue, or your brake pads will piss themselves and not stop you well. Small amounts of lube on the rotors (or pads) can also cause a throbbing brake pedal and WILL wreck your pads.
When re-installing the wheel, use the grey anti-sieze instead (better for high temps, doesn't migrate as much), and use it SPARINGLY. The centripetal force (most call it "centrifugal force", but it's "centripetal") can cause grease to spin out of the hub and onto the rotor, impeding braking. You may think that grease is thick and won't migrate, but it thins with even slightly higher temperatures, and can be carried by water. Anti-seize is a little better. Whichever you apply, use it SPARINGLY. Put it on and wipe it off, you only need a thin film.
I've found one area that binds on many cars is actually not the rotor/wheel interface, but rather the center bore/rotor interface, especially if the wheel fits really well. Anti-sieze that area, but again do it SPARINGLY. You do NOT want this stuff on your braking surfaces.
Hope this helps. Other than that, use JACKSTANDS - and what I do is to leave the jack in place but put most of the car's weight on the jackstands (belt and suspenders). Be extra careful with the BFH though, you can easily do damage to the wheel surface (and even to the bearings) if you're way too brutal. Hit around and around and around, it sometimes takes time. The liquid wrench takes time to work as well.
) 25cm for tonight, 10 for tomorrow and 100kph winds.Ping Beat me to it.
WD40... best stuff on earth.
So are you ununable to remove the lugnuts or will the rim itself not move once its off the lugnuts?
Also, the parking brake doesnt lock the wheel itself, it locks the back brakes up. The wheels will come off with the parking brake on, since theyre only held on by the lug nuts.
WD40... best stuff on earth.
So are you ununable to remove the lugnuts or will the rim itself not move once its off the lugnuts?
Also, the parking brake doesnt lock the wheel itself, it locks the back brakes up. The wheels will come off with the parking brake on, since theyre only held on by the lug nuts.
The lugnuts come off just fine... its the center of all the lugnuts, the part of the steelie that fits over the circular ring (don't know the name of it). But I've been told by a couple local friends (one w/ MSP, one w/ MP3) to just give the tire a good kick/hit w/ a foot/rubber mallet and that I should be fine. Just to be safe, I went out tonight, and bought a 2-ton floor jack, and 2 3-ton jackstands. I'm gonna jack it, throw it on the stands, and goto work w/ the rubber mallet. I figure that's the safest way! I'll update you guys on how well this works as there still might be a couple of you out there who have the same problem yourself. Oh, and for the person who put yours on in January... I did too.. it's only been about... 1 1/2 mths that they've been on... doesn't take long for the two peices to partially become one! 
Anyway, I'll keep you updated! I'm gonna do the work on saturday, unless it doesn't rain here tomorrow.
Anyway, I'll keep you updated! I'm gonna do the work on saturday, unless it doesn't rain here tomorrow.yeah, I want to and plus, I should... the Blizzaks are so soft.. you can litterally push on the tread and it just gives... with the nicer weather coming, I know I'll tear them apart in no time. Not that I drive extremely hard or anything, but its fun to take a fast turn or two here and there, and well, the blizzaks would be toast after a month lol so, they have to go. Too bad I don't have a garage
mdaj said:
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- 2003.5 Titanium MSP
Yeah, I feel for ya newf, you're getting bombed with snow tonight. I was watching the news, and there is alot of ******* snow coming, New Brunswick got an assload, and now you're in for it. Hopefully you're not near the cost line, cause they're predicting a storm surge, thats gonna bring up to 2m high of ice, and extreme flooding. Good luck mate, and hopefully my snows come off easy(had to stay kinda on topic)
