(ripped) Man am I mad (pissed) . I went to pick up my new mazda 3s that I had specially ordered 3 months ago and wasn't able to do it. 3 months ago when we drew up the contract I was told that I would receive a loan for 6 years at 6% interest and when I went to pick up my new car they told me that the best that they could do is 12.9%. Needless to say this increased my monthly payment by $100. I walked out and the guy at the dealership had the nerve to tell me to come back if I came into any extra money (asshole) . I was lied to and not kept well informed about my car. First they screwed up the order then they got another one deferred to the dealership with extra options which they charged me for and then they screwed up my loan. I don't know if I will evey buy another mazda again. Sorry I guess that I'm just venting. That's alright I still have my Laser Blue Mica MP3 (mp3blue)
I Got RIPPED OFF
- Thread starter m_long84
- Start date
Familia323
_______________
you aren't gonna buy another mazda because you went to a bad dealership?
splitvizion
Member
- :
- 2004 Mazda 3S
If you signed a contract that said you were getting the car for a certain price and % then they have to honor the contract. If not, then welcome to the world of doing business with anybody. If you want something for a certain price get it written on paper just as they would try to make you do if you gave them an offer. Sorry about your luck with that shady dealer. I would call or write to Mazda America and let them have it.
yeah.. in canada the rates are always lower (why is that?) than at our friends across the border.. i heard someone got a 19% interest on their loan (shocked) (boom02)
(omg)
in here you can usually get anything from 0-6% on regular basis averaging at 2.9-3.9%
i think also in canada it seems like there are FIXED rates. if you get approved.. u get approved for what's listed (regardless of credit history/rating).. not anywhere between 0% and more than a credit card loan..
(omg)
in here you can usually get anything from 0-6% on regular basis averaging at 2.9-3.9%
i think also in canada it seems like there are FIXED rates. if you get approved.. u get approved for what's listed (regardless of credit history/rating).. not anywhere between 0% and more than a credit card loan..
Sir. SpeedALot
Member
- :
- Mazda 6s Lapis Blue / Mazda3 5-door Sunlight Sliver
Sorry to hear the man, but if you didn't get it in writing, you can't blame the dealership. Also, did your credit rating change during the time you were waiting for the car? If you had any late payments or aquired more debt, that would have effected your final interest rate quote. I would check your credit report, and if it looks good, then go to another dealership.
maybe you shouldn't get rid of the MP3 hmm?
stratoblue3s
Member
Mazda doesnt car all they is defer everything back to the dealership and the dealership difers it back. I went to he dealership in June middle of and was told they couldnt get me anything except a 05. Put deposit July 1 everything in writing. Owner loyalty ,financing N/C spoiler, even a rev it up coupon. Well guess what no car yet which I understood, but all the incetives are gone. everything on the deal has changed and they are trying to tell me of a price increase.
Word to the wise dont buy unless it is on the lot. Phone around and do all your shopping see whats out there and prepare to drive around. Good luck
Word to the wise dont buy unless it is on the lot. Phone around and do all your shopping see whats out there and prepare to drive around. Good luck
re: $200 over invoice?
Hi,
What auto broker is giving you $200 over invoice?
Could you suggest someone you trust?
Thanks
M
Natey said:I buy all my cars for an auto broker. I pay 200 bucks over invoice, no questions or haggling.
Don't blame Mazda, blame the dealership.Maybe even let MazdaNA know what happened to you.
Hi,
What auto broker is giving you $200 over invoice?
Could you suggest someone you trust?
Thanks
M
goldwing2000
OG Mazda Mafia
- :
- 2004 Mazda3s Hatch; 346,000 mi (sold)
2024 CX-5 CE; 7,500 mi (so far)
hworth18 said:
Ditto ditto...
19% would be basically a signature loan meaning you have no/bad credit and or no other assets for the bank to draw on for backing.
My loan is 'same as cash' for my 2003.5 PR5. Meaning 0% financing for 5 years. One of the major reasons I bought this car over the Mini and Vibe.
My 2001 MPV was 1.9% for 3 years.
Why pay interest when you don't have to. Interest is bad.
My loan is 'same as cash' for my 2003.5 PR5. Meaning 0% financing for 5 years. One of the major reasons I bought this car over the Mini and Vibe.
My 2001 MPV was 1.9% for 3 years.
Why pay interest when you don't have to. Interest is bad.
DeanSweet said:
The rate is only part of the picture and dealers can be sneaky when it comes to this. Dealers can add rate buydown fees to the price of the car. Also, they can offer it on models they are trying to move to get rid of the next model year so they can do so w/out having to drop the price to much (essentially giving you less bargain room on the price if you talk financing/payments before price). Or the 0% or next to 0% percent financing can be part of an incentive choice consumers have to either get a good rate or get cash back toward the price of the car. For example...0% or $1500 cash back. You see those kinds of offers often this time of year when the next model year is coming in. Essentially in that case you're paying an extra $1500 for your car to get the 0% in that case. Let's say you were financing $15,000 after a trade in/money down over the course of 4 years at 3.9%. In this case, the interest you'd pay would be less than the money you'd get for the cash back and if you took the 0% bait you'd have paid a couple hundred extra for your car.
Interest rate is only part of the equation. Yeah 0% sounds great but if it's achieved by raising the price of your car over what you could have got it otherwise it can become a wash. That's why it's good to shop around for financing to see what I can get from a bank or credit union before shopping for the car so you know what all your options are. When negotiating the price of the car leave payments and rate out of it too and just focus on what the lowest price your can get for the car. Once that is established see if they can beat your best financing offer.
Not implying you did otherwise or got a bad deal. I just hate to see people get suckered into the tricks these dealers pull when they try to get people to think of the price of the car based on their payement or rate.
