Many people ask, can I install 5.25" or 6.5" speakers in my Mazda even though I have 6x8" factory speakers?
The answer is yes! Here's how:
If you have basic woodworking skills you can take an hour or two and fabricate custom baffles to hole any size speaker. All 5.25" and 6" speakers and most 6.5" and 6.75" speakers will fit in a standard 5x7/6x8 opening. You will need a drill with assorted bits and a jig saw. A router with a perfect circle jig is recommended but not required.
1. Remove door panel and remove factory speaker and rain guard. This is covered in another how-to and will not be detailed here.
2. Remove the rainguard from speaker by prying it off with a flat blade screwdriver.
3. Using the factory speaker, trace the outline of your new baffle onto a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard) and mark the factory mounting holes. Draw a straight line between the holes to mark the center of the baffle.
2. Place your new speaker onto the baffle and trace the outline of it. Depending on the size of your speaker, you may need to enlargen the the baffle.
3. Cut out the mounting hole in the center of the baffle. You have two options for doing this. One is to just use a jig saw. If you have a steady hand you can do a decent job. A better way is to use a router with a perfect circle jig as shown below. Drill pilot hole for the center pin and a second hole to get the cut started. If you use a router, be sure to make several passes and lower the bit a little more between passes. Once the center of the circle is partially detached, it doesn't act as a very good guide, especially when you are torquing the bit through 3/4" of MDF.
4. Test fit your speaker. If it doesn't fit in the hole try sanding the edge of the opening down a little until it slides in. A little bit of extra space is ok but you don't want to see any of the opening through the screw mounting holes.
5. Drill holes for mounting the speaker. Make sure you offset them from the original mounting holes. You'll see why in the next step.
6. Next use a larger drill bit to drill the factory mounting holes. You want to give the screw some space to move around since the spots you marked may not be perfect.
7. Using a countersink bit, open up the holes a little more so that the factory screws will sit below the baffle. If you use 3/4" MDF you'll have to sink pretty deep if you want to still use the factory screws.
8. Using a jig saw, cutout the perimeter of your baffle. Don't forget to make it larger to account for the new speaker. If you're not paying attention you might cut off the top and bottom accidentally.
9. Your new baffles are now complete. Do a dry run test of the baffle, speaker, and rain guard before you head back out to the car. Remove the sealant from the rain guard. You want to ensure a tight seal with the door frame so the partial gunk on the inside and outside of the rain guard will only cause problems. You can add a bead of silicon or cauck to it when you put it back in the car if you are paranoid about proper sealing like me.
10. Optionally, add a coat of paint to them to protect them from the elements. I just used some flat black spray paint I had around the house.
11. Another trick I like to do is to add some foam around the perimeter of the baffle. This will make up for the missing plastic ring that we will remove from the back of the door panel in step 13.
12. Install your baffle by first placing the rainguard in the door frame, then the baffle. Attach the baffle using the factory screws. Finally attach your speaker wires and screw in the speaker.
(sorry no pic yet)
13. On the back of the door panel there is a thin piece of plastic around the edge of the speaker grill. Using a utility knife, cut this ring of plastic off so the panel is flush. Otherwise it will get in the way and prevent you from putting the door panel back on.
(sorry no pic yet)
14. Turn on your stereo and listen to your speaker to make sure it is installed correctly. (Do this before replacing the door panel just in case you forgot something.)
15. Replace the door panel and you're done.
The answer is yes! Here's how:
If you have basic woodworking skills you can take an hour or two and fabricate custom baffles to hole any size speaker. All 5.25" and 6" speakers and most 6.5" and 6.75" speakers will fit in a standard 5x7/6x8 opening. You will need a drill with assorted bits and a jig saw. A router with a perfect circle jig is recommended but not required.
1. Remove door panel and remove factory speaker and rain guard. This is covered in another how-to and will not be detailed here.
2. Remove the rainguard from speaker by prying it off with a flat blade screwdriver.
3. Using the factory speaker, trace the outline of your new baffle onto a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard) and mark the factory mounting holes. Draw a straight line between the holes to mark the center of the baffle.
2. Place your new speaker onto the baffle and trace the outline of it. Depending on the size of your speaker, you may need to enlargen the the baffle.
3. Cut out the mounting hole in the center of the baffle. You have two options for doing this. One is to just use a jig saw. If you have a steady hand you can do a decent job. A better way is to use a router with a perfect circle jig as shown below. Drill pilot hole for the center pin and a second hole to get the cut started. If you use a router, be sure to make several passes and lower the bit a little more between passes. Once the center of the circle is partially detached, it doesn't act as a very good guide, especially when you are torquing the bit through 3/4" of MDF.
4. Test fit your speaker. If it doesn't fit in the hole try sanding the edge of the opening down a little until it slides in. A little bit of extra space is ok but you don't want to see any of the opening through the screw mounting holes.
5. Drill holes for mounting the speaker. Make sure you offset them from the original mounting holes. You'll see why in the next step.
6. Next use a larger drill bit to drill the factory mounting holes. You want to give the screw some space to move around since the spots you marked may not be perfect.
7. Using a countersink bit, open up the holes a little more so that the factory screws will sit below the baffle. If you use 3/4" MDF you'll have to sink pretty deep if you want to still use the factory screws.
8. Using a jig saw, cutout the perimeter of your baffle. Don't forget to make it larger to account for the new speaker. If you're not paying attention you might cut off the top and bottom accidentally.
9. Your new baffles are now complete. Do a dry run test of the baffle, speaker, and rain guard before you head back out to the car. Remove the sealant from the rain guard. You want to ensure a tight seal with the door frame so the partial gunk on the inside and outside of the rain guard will only cause problems. You can add a bead of silicon or cauck to it when you put it back in the car if you are paranoid about proper sealing like me.
10. Optionally, add a coat of paint to them to protect them from the elements. I just used some flat black spray paint I had around the house.
11. Another trick I like to do is to add some foam around the perimeter of the baffle. This will make up for the missing plastic ring that we will remove from the back of the door panel in step 13.
12. Install your baffle by first placing the rainguard in the door frame, then the baffle. Attach the baffle using the factory screws. Finally attach your speaker wires and screw in the speaker.
(sorry no pic yet)
13. On the back of the door panel there is a thin piece of plastic around the edge of the speaker grill. Using a utility knife, cut this ring of plastic off so the panel is flush. Otherwise it will get in the way and prevent you from putting the door panel back on.
(sorry no pic yet)
14. Turn on your stereo and listen to your speaker to make sure it is installed correctly. (Do this before replacing the door panel just in case you forgot something.)
15. Replace the door panel and you're done.
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