How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!

Well as it is right now, my EGR is not hooked up to my header, I have it closed up with muffler tape, she runs fine, idles fine, ect. For N/A it pretty much just for emmissions.

She will run on a boosted car without it, but it helps to keep temps down and this helps prevent detonation, so its kinda like a emmissions/safty feature on boosted cars.
 
bazooka joe said:
chris, how do you think the car would run without the egr...removed all together?

I've never looked into it. It doesn't bug me at all and if it makes my exhaust gases cleaner, all the better.

Rac3rX how does it keep temps down? I'm thinking about the setup of it, doesn't it just recirc exhaust gases back into the intake track so that any unburnt fuel in the exhaust gets burned? Hey wait though it's only hooked up to the exhaust coming out of cylinder 4 (don't know if I have the number correct.. the one all the way to the right in the bay) so it's only having that emissions effect for one cylinder worth of the exhaust flow. :'(
 
KanseiZM said:
I've never looked into it. It doesn't bug me at all and if it makes my exhaust gases cleaner, all the better.

Rac3rX how does it keep temps down? I'm thinking about the setup of it, doesn't it just recirc exhaust gases back into the intake track so that any unburnt fuel in the exhaust gets burned? Hey wait though it's only hooked up to the exhaust coming out of cylinder 4 (don't know if I have the number correct.. the one all the way to the right in the bay) so it's only having that emissions effect for one cylinder worth of the exhaust flow. :'(

Yes it does, and by doing so the temps are reduced.

Also I have a CEL because of it, that bugs thhe s*** out of me, but I too damn lazy to pull it off and Fix it.
 
snowblazin has no egr valve....car seems to run okay but he has the po401 code too!
 
The car will run fine but it helps to prevent detonation, recirculating the exhaust gasses actually lowers the operating temp.
 
bazooka joe said:
welcome newbe...have you removed your cat?...this cel/mil eliminator is for those who have removed their frist cat...(installed a header or turbo/downpipe)....the po421 code is:P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

the car is still stock...have not touched anything...90k miles on it...

i really think that my cat is bad...i need a quick, easy, and most of all, cheap fix for this as my inspection is already 2 months expired and if i bring it through state again and fail, i'm gonna be royally screwed...

can I do this mod and expect the CEL to stay off long enough to get the car inspected? this code is the only thing keeping it from passing...i cant afford another non-inspected vehicle ticket...whatever I can do in an hour or so before the weekend so i can bring the car through on Sat morning...

thanks...
Mario
 
Gordinho80 said:
the car is still stock...have not touched anything...90k miles on it...

i really think that my cat is bad...i need a quick, easy, and most of all, cheap fix for this as my inspection is already 2 months expired and if i bring it through state again and fail, i'm gonna be royally screwed...

can I do this mod and expect the CEL to stay off long enough to get the car inspected? this code is the only thing keeping it from passing...i cant afford another non-inspected vehicle ticket...whatever I can do in an hour or so before the weekend so i can bring the car through on Sat morning...

thanks...
Mario

P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

Sound like a stuck or clogged EGR, clean that reset the ECU and see if it returns
 
Gordinho80 said:
the car is still stock...have not touched anything...90k miles on it...

i really think that my cat is bad...i need a quick, easy, and most of all, cheap fix for this as my inspection is already 2 months expired and if i bring it through state again and fail, i'm gonna be royally screwed...

can I do this mod and expect the CEL to stay off long enough to get the car inspected? this code is the only thing keeping it from passing...i cant afford another non-inspected vehicle ticket...whatever I can do in an hour or so before the weekend so i can bring the car through on Sat morning...

thanks...
Mario

The CEL eliminator will not fix your problem if it is complaining about insufficient EGR flow. It is meant to fix Oxygen sensor woes. Unless you also have a code for the oxygen sensor having a strange reading, your cat is probably ok.

Seriously though, cleaning the EGR valve is easier (and cheaper) than doing any of the CEL Eliminator methods. Just pick up some intake manifold cleaner, get your intake out of the way, undo a couple bolts, pull it out, clean it, and then put it all back together.

How is your car idling? Is it smooth or does it idle low and/or rough?
 
Rac3rX said:
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

Sound like a stuck or clogged EGR, clean that reset the ECU and see if it returns

the code read is not P0401...it is P0421...something about the cat not working correctly...

again...this is a 2000 Protege ES Auto
 
Oh ok. Sorry I must have misread your previous post or confused it with someone else's. The mil eliminator might be a temp fix, or you could try the spark plug nonfouler trick (easier). As long as the code is talking about invalid readings or something and not just having a missing (or completely fried/dead) sensor, the fix might work for you.
 
KanseiZM said:
Oh ok. Sorry I must have misread your previous post or confused it with someone else's. The mil eliminator might be a temp fix, or you could try the spark plug nonfouler trick (easier). As long as the code is talking about invalid readings or something and not just having a missing (or completely fried/dead) sensor, the fix might work for you.

yeah...i would think that if the sensor itself was bad, the code would reflect that and mention the sensor...this code specifically says "Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)"
 
KanseiZM said:
Oh ok. Sorry I must have misread your previous post or confused it with someone else's. The mil eliminator might be a temp fix, or you could try the spark plug nonfouler trick (easier). As long as the code is talking about invalid readings or something and not just having a missing (or completely fried/dead) sensor, the fix might work for you.

my bad!(pissed)

sounds like the mil eliminator would work then
 
Gordinho80 said:
the car is still stock...have not touched anything...90k miles on it...

i really think that my cat is bad...i need a quick, easy, and most of all, cheap fix for this as my inspection is already 2 months expired and if i bring it through state again and fail, i'm gonna be royally screwed...

can I do this mod and expect the CEL to stay off long enough to get the car inspected? this code is the only thing keeping it from passing...i cant afford another non-inspected vehicle ticket...whatever I can do in an hour or so before the weekend so i can bring the car through on Sat morning...

thanks...
Mario

I know that if I reset my ECU. Unplug Negative battery terminal and press the break for about 1 min then hook the battery back up my CEL light will stay off for about 50 miles. So if you are only looking for it to stay off while getting it inspected this might work for you.
 
Please help! I put the 1 megaohm resister inline on the blue wire and now I am getting P0140 DTC: HO2S (rear) circuit no activity detected. "If input voltage from sensor never exceeds .55 V for 30 seconds, PCM determines that sensor is not activated." I checked the connections and it is nice and tight.

I drive a 2000 Protege with the 1.6L ZM-DE engine. I have the OBX header installed. I am guessing that I need to use a smaller resistor, but which one should I use?
 
Last edited:
acidbbg said:
PLEASE MAKE THIS A STICKY or Locate to the How To!

I have seen lots of questions about how to make your own MIL/CEL Eliminator..

Well its really simple!

Tools Needed:
Wire Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder
Electrical Tape
1-M Ohm Resistor ($1 at Radio Shack)
1-uF Capacitor($1 at Radio Shack)
Adjustable Wrench

Step1:
-Pop Open the Hood and get a look at the 2nd Oxygen Sensor
-There is a clip..Push the clip in and pull out the Male-Female Connection
-Using Adjustable Wrench Remove the Oxygen Sensor

Step2:
-Go somewhere you can use your Soldering Iron
-Cut the Blue Wire
-Remove the Sheathing on the White wire to expose the Copper Wiring Underneath
-Grab you 1m Ohm resistor and solder it into the bluewires you cut earlier
-Grap your 1uF capactiro and solder it into the wire that you unsheathed/exposed & than solder it on the connector side as show on the Pic!
-Grab your electrical tape and make sure you do a good job covering all the conections

Step3:
-Reinstall using the reverse directions in step 1!

Typical install time is 15-20min depending on your ability to solder!

Chas

I was wondering if anyone has a better picture of what wire I need to do this to? Thanks
 

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