First off..
some of you will know this info, others wont so here is a brief reason of why i did it.
why?
A 17 pound cast iron monster lives right under cylinder # 3, blocking potential oil capacity and provides what i would guess is a pound or two of rotating mass ( rotating mass robs power from each revolution of a piston, so taking off or reducing rotating mass essentially gives you a motor that has to work less to produce power; lightweight pullys, flywheels, wheels, ect.)
The oil capacity goes up a quart or so with the removal of the balance shaft, which is a major selling point to me.
Ill let the blown motor threads and the speculation that the B/S (balance shaft) is causing some blown motors through inadequate oil distribution to be discovered elsewhere.
for some stages, i do not have pictures, because they are basic steps, and if you are not able of performing them on your own, you shouldn`t be attempting this install.
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Ninja edit by Blendercloud
Before doing this:
It is important for users to know that this will definitely void any warranty you have with Mazda for the engine and most-likely the drivetrain as well. There are pro's and con's to this procedure. To read more about the possible consequences, please check the links (thanks Tunersteve) below. While removing the balance shaft does not alter the balance of the engine, it does allow significant forces to go untamed creating additional stresses on internal and external components alike. It should also be noted that unless you intend to do significant changes to internal engine components that affect the overall balance of the engine's rotating mass (such as balancing individual engine components), you should NOT proceed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balance_shaft
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_balance
----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack up the car.
remove oil cap.
use a 17mm socket to pull drain plug.
drain oil.
remove oil filter.
next, remove the 12 10mm bolts that secure the oil pan from the bottom.
remove the 4 8mm bolts that lay parallel to the ground on the passanger side, next to a hard line covered in rubber/silicon.
remove the 4 14mm oil pan bolts that parallel to the ground on the drivers side, near the flywheel area. (two point one way, two point the opposite)
Do not worry about this black hard line, it is for your oil dipstick and will simply slide off when you pull the pan.
Use a hammer or similar to pry the oil pan and break the seal of the stock gasket material.
I pried off the front, near where the oil filter goes.
carefully, remove pan. some finaggling (haha) might be needed.
Next, there is some type of oil pick up tube(made of black plastic) which is held on by two 8mm bolts, remove them, and pull the plastic piece. (reinstall after balance shaft is out! VERY IMPORTANT!)
Remove the 4 14mm bolts that connect the balance shaft to the rest of the block.
(note: when these are removed the balance shaft will come out, so have a friend hold the shaft or keep a hand holding it up to remove last one or two bolts)
I did NOT remove the ring that turns the balance shaft. I did not have any tools to do it and i didnt quite know what it entailed. if someone has info feel free to chime in.
use the delete kit and 8mm alan bolt to plug the old oil feed hole of the balance shaft. (if i have my cylinder #`d correctly, it is between # 3 and #4 cylinders; the two closest to the drivers side.)
remove all the gasket material that was left on the block where the oil pan met up to it.
reinstall the black oil feed thing with the two 8mm bolts.
now back to that oil pan, remove any of that stock gasket material that may still be on it.
the oil baffle is optional, but i would recommend it, and there is also a windage tray coming to the market soon i believe.
also i cleaned out my oil pan to see how dirty it was. it was pretty bad.
remove the stock oil baffles ( if you bought a new one to install), which are connected by 10mm bolts, then install a baffle as seen here.
apply grey tube gasket material to outside of pan (mostly on top, but i believe the passenger side where the 8 mm bolts went was on the side of the pan for gasketing.)
reinstalling the oil pan is going to be hit or miss. for me it took a few attempts but i knew right when i had it, and having the help of babs was a plus. make sure the dipstick line gets in there and everything lines up. mine lined up quite well.
reinstall the 12 10mm bolts, the 4 8mm bolt on the passanger side, and the 4 14mm bolts near the flywheel area.
reinstall filter, drain plug, and fill with oil ( an extra quart at least)
reward yourself with a beer.
enjoy working on your car (yours truely)
and watch babs lift some weights
NOTES!!!!
after pulling my pan, i realized how much oil was still in there. an oil change doesnt get all of it out thats for sure.
This thing is huge a ridiculous.
Impressions...
well. i have some piece of mind now. extra oil and a free`d up oil pan with good oil access to all parts of crank make me feel good.
Did i notice a huge difference, probably in my head but maybe. not really. but my butt dyno rarely feels anything ever.
Vibrations.
at idle, i noticed no difference what so ever.
driving, i noticed a bit from 2500-4000 under certain load types, but not enough to make me regret doing it, not even close.
hope this helps some one out.
and thanks to babs for drinking beer and giving me a hand.
__________________
some of you will know this info, others wont so here is a brief reason of why i did it.
why?
A 17 pound cast iron monster lives right under cylinder # 3, blocking potential oil capacity and provides what i would guess is a pound or two of rotating mass ( rotating mass robs power from each revolution of a piston, so taking off or reducing rotating mass essentially gives you a motor that has to work less to produce power; lightweight pullys, flywheels, wheels, ect.)
The oil capacity goes up a quart or so with the removal of the balance shaft, which is a major selling point to me.
Ill let the blown motor threads and the speculation that the B/S (balance shaft) is causing some blown motors through inadequate oil distribution to be discovered elsewhere.
for some stages, i do not have pictures, because they are basic steps, and if you are not able of performing them on your own, you shouldn`t be attempting this install.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Ninja edit by Blendercloud
Before doing this:
It is important for users to know that this will definitely void any warranty you have with Mazda for the engine and most-likely the drivetrain as well. There are pro's and con's to this procedure. To read more about the possible consequences, please check the links (thanks Tunersteve) below. While removing the balance shaft does not alter the balance of the engine, it does allow significant forces to go untamed creating additional stresses on internal and external components alike. It should also be noted that unless you intend to do significant changes to internal engine components that affect the overall balance of the engine's rotating mass (such as balancing individual engine components), you should NOT proceed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balance_shaft
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_balance
----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack up the car.
remove oil cap.
use a 17mm socket to pull drain plug.
drain oil.
remove oil filter.
next, remove the 12 10mm bolts that secure the oil pan from the bottom.
remove the 4 8mm bolts that lay parallel to the ground on the passanger side, next to a hard line covered in rubber/silicon.
remove the 4 14mm oil pan bolts that parallel to the ground on the drivers side, near the flywheel area. (two point one way, two point the opposite)
Do not worry about this black hard line, it is for your oil dipstick and will simply slide off when you pull the pan.
Use a hammer or similar to pry the oil pan and break the seal of the stock gasket material.
I pried off the front, near where the oil filter goes.
carefully, remove pan. some finaggling (haha) might be needed.
Next, there is some type of oil pick up tube(made of black plastic) which is held on by two 8mm bolts, remove them, and pull the plastic piece. (reinstall after balance shaft is out! VERY IMPORTANT!)
Remove the 4 14mm bolts that connect the balance shaft to the rest of the block.
(note: when these are removed the balance shaft will come out, so have a friend hold the shaft or keep a hand holding it up to remove last one or two bolts)
I did NOT remove the ring that turns the balance shaft. I did not have any tools to do it and i didnt quite know what it entailed. if someone has info feel free to chime in.
use the delete kit and 8mm alan bolt to plug the old oil feed hole of the balance shaft. (if i have my cylinder #`d correctly, it is between # 3 and #4 cylinders; the two closest to the drivers side.)
remove all the gasket material that was left on the block where the oil pan met up to it.
reinstall the black oil feed thing with the two 8mm bolts.
now back to that oil pan, remove any of that stock gasket material that may still be on it.
the oil baffle is optional, but i would recommend it, and there is also a windage tray coming to the market soon i believe.
also i cleaned out my oil pan to see how dirty it was. it was pretty bad.
remove the stock oil baffles ( if you bought a new one to install), which are connected by 10mm bolts, then install a baffle as seen here.
apply grey tube gasket material to outside of pan (mostly on top, but i believe the passenger side where the 8 mm bolts went was on the side of the pan for gasketing.)
reinstalling the oil pan is going to be hit or miss. for me it took a few attempts but i knew right when i had it, and having the help of babs was a plus. make sure the dipstick line gets in there and everything lines up. mine lined up quite well.
reinstall the 12 10mm bolts, the 4 8mm bolt on the passanger side, and the 4 14mm bolts near the flywheel area.
reinstall filter, drain plug, and fill with oil ( an extra quart at least)
reward yourself with a beer.
enjoy working on your car (yours truely)
and watch babs lift some weights
NOTES!!!!
after pulling my pan, i realized how much oil was still in there. an oil change doesnt get all of it out thats for sure.
This thing is huge a ridiculous.
Impressions...
well. i have some piece of mind now. extra oil and a free`d up oil pan with good oil access to all parts of crank make me feel good.
Did i notice a huge difference, probably in my head but maybe. not really. but my butt dyno rarely feels anything ever.
Vibrations.
at idle, i noticed no difference what so ever.
driving, i noticed a bit from 2500-4000 under certain load types, but not enough to make me regret doing it, not even close.
hope this helps some one out.
and thanks to babs for drinking beer and giving me a hand.
__________________
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