How to adujst AWR sway bar?

[Pretzellogic]

I just installed my AWR 21mm sway bar, but the directions are somewhat lacking. How the hell do I adjust this one so that my car handles well. I understand the basics: the further up the bar the endlink brackets are set, the stiffer it is, but I'm not to sure how to adjust the endlinks themselves.

Any help is appreciated. These directions suck.

 

[scorch70]

I just installed my AWR 21mm sway bar, but the directions are somewhat lacking. How the hell do I adjust this one so that my car handles well. I understand the basics: the further up the bar the endlink brackets are set, the stiffer it is, but I'm not to sure how to adjust the endlinks themselves.

Any help is appreciated. These directions suck.

Hey Pretzellogic, sort of a thread jack, but how tough was the install?


Thanks
scorch70

 

[Pretzellogic]

Install wasn't too terrible. The hardest part is getting the stock endlinks free. PB blaster is your friend.

To those who can help me: I have yet to get my car off the jack stands. The endlinks are currently at their shortest, and I know this isn't right. I'm lowered on Eibach Pros (1.5"). Anyone have a rough estimate of how long my endlinks should be?

 

[thewrench]

It doesn't really matter how long they are, just make sure they, or the bar, will not hit anything as the suspension moves up. You also want to make sure there's no preload on the bar. Just grab hold of an endlink and make sure it isn't binding when you twist it back and forth. I adjusted it so that there was preload at first, just so I would know what it felt like when it was free. Oh crap, they've got those o-rings now don't they? That may not work, if not, then make sure the bolt holding them can spin freely in the hole before you tighten it down. The endlinks should be the same length side-to-side, but if your suspension is a little tweaked they may not be exact. Hopefully that didn't confuse you too much, hehe.

 

[Mike R]

1. get the slider brackets even on both sides.
2. adjust the endlinks so that there aren't any clearance problems.
3. tighten the endlink adjusters on one side
4. On the other side, adjust the endlink longer/ shorter until you get to the point where there is not any preload on the bar. This will be the point where turning the endlink adjuster it the easiest.


Hope that helps and is coherent...


Mike

 

[thewrench]

So you're saying my ramblings aren't coherent

 

[Mike R]

Nope, I'm saying most of mine aren't....

 

[Pretzellogic]

Stupid question: how do I know there aren't any clearance problems? I'm afraid that when I'm going over bumps the LCA is hitting the bar.

 

[zmepro]

This is what mine looks like, no clearance problems and the rear end is nice and stiff, I can get oversteer if I feel like it.(enguard)

 

[zmepro]

at first i had put the bar in upside down, doh!

 

[Mike R]

Stupid question: how do I know there aren't any clearance problems? I'm afraid that when I'm going over bumps the LCA is hitting the bar.

Have it on the ground and get someone to bounce the car while you look? I just made sure there was around .5" between the slider bracket and the LCA

 

[Pretzellogic]

Here's the problem. I had a clunking problem when I lowered my P5. I thought that part of the problem stemmed from my endlinks, which were not desigened to hadle the lowering. Long story short: there is still creaks and clunkcs at low speed. I'm just trying to rule out everything I can.

 

[thewrench]

Maybe jack the car up and stick a block of wood under the tire and the lower the car back down, then crawl under there and look. Also, if you're just looking to eliminate things, take the swaybar off altogether and then drive it around some.

 

[Mike R]

Did you do the strut top washer thing?

 

[Pretzellogic]

Did you do the strut top washer thing?

No. I lost the link when my computer went. You have it?

 

[Mike R]

It was just putting an extra washer on the big washer on the top of the strut to tighten the strut rod in the plate. Also, this

When you unbolted the strut assembly, the washer under the nut has to go a certian way when you re-assemble or the rattling noise that sounds like it is loose will haunt you.
The way to check is to pull off the inspection cover inside and you will be able to see the the bolt and washer. If the washer is installed with the curved part down, like a upside down spoon then you have it wrong. You need to remove the nut and install the washer with the curve going up, like a bowl, and then reinstall the nut and re-assemble the car. This will take care of the noise.
If you need clarification let me know, i will try and get pics or at least a simple drawing to show you.
This is what i did to fix the rattle after i put the MP3 springs on my g/f LX and it went away.

 

[Natey]

I installed my AWR bar on Rhino ramps with the suspension loaded. It makes it much easier to get everything even that way.

Also, the bigger bar just makes a little noise. Try putting some lithium grease on the bushings to get rid of the creak.

One more thing: If the bar is installed correctly, there's no worries about the bar hitting anything. Even if it looks close, there's no need to worry.

OK, ONE more thing. The bolts that AWR sends out with the swaybar(the black allen-head ones), are made out of steel. The brackets are made out of aluminium. Put those two together under a car(and behind a wheel) and they will oxidize and bond together, makeing them un-adjustable. Get yerself some stainless steel bolts to replace the black ones and save yourself a headache when it's time to adjust the settings on the bar. Because I'm extra paranoid, I even put high-grade nuts on the ends and double-tightened the bolts.

EDIT:
Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about_: