hks twin ingnition

Im not sure how we would benefit from this when Cobb is going to release the AP for less than 700.. What are the benefits of this?

The cobb ap is to flash the stock ecu. The HKS twin ignition is to give more juice to the stock coils to get more spark. Did you know about the MSD ignition system? Same s***.
 
Personally i kind of brushed this mod off untill the spring mod worked. Now im a lil more curious about it.
 
Personally i kind of brushed this mod off untill the spring mod worked. Now im a lil more curious about it.

I want it assuming it does something. Rotus makes me think its ebay s*** or something. But i trust redrocketz and Ken too.... some guys in speed6s got it and it seemed to make a difference apparently.

I'll bet with fuel pump... the top end should really show a difference. What plug upgrade would go along? Those NGK plugs would still be the ones?
 
It is more suited to big turbo and high boost guys.[/QUOTE]

Who knows about when a higher perf ignition should be required? It sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the lead in RR.
 
well it makes more sense if you have more air and pressure trying to blow out your spark you want better/strong spark to overcome that.
 
This thread is pissing me off.

All these car guys and nobody can come out and definitively say how or if.... this thing works on our cars the way they claim. Not even any speculation on Rotus observations....

So far we know it costs about the same as the AP....
its interesting...
easy to install....maybe(although I trust Rocketz on this one)
and....

well thats it actually.

What I want to know is how the harness actually works on this car, and whether it affects the cars existing amp or replaces it? And if it replaces it... how can it do that from BEHIND the stock amp?
 
Personally i kind of brushed this mod off untill the spring mod worked. Now im a lil more curious about it.

Agreed. Lou says the noisiest part of the electrical system, in terms of interference, is the coil packs. He speculates that the spring stretch may possibly affect the interference pattern(s). As wacky as that sounds, nothing else makes sense with our setups...

This thread is pissing me off.

All these car guys and nobody can come out and definitively say how or if.... this thing works on our cars the way they claim. Not even any speculation on Rotus observations....

So far we know it costs about the same as the AP....
its interesting...
easy to install....maybe(although I trust Rocketz on this one)
and....

well thats it actually.

What I want to know is how the harness actually works on this car, and whether it affects the cars existing amp or replaces it? And if it replaces it... how can it do that from BEHIND the stock amp?

I helped install one on an MS6. Took about 30 minutes. Easy. I want a before and after dyno or description of elimination of reproducible fuel cut before I would buy. This "helped" at high rpms just doesn't do it for me.
 
Were there any observations worth passing along on the ms6? Whats your speculation on the fact that it still passes its signal THROUGH the stock amp and coils... and how it could improve the signal from that position?

Im planning on getting it anyway, so maybe I'll do a dyno. Current setup... then with fuel pump....then with fuel pump and ignition amp. That would be interesting I suppose.
 
Is not going to hurt your ms3, but I don't think anybody knows how much is going to help, until someone install one. It basically sends a lot more power to the stock coils, resulting in a more powerful spark. I had the msd ignition on my 91 integra and it was working really good with bigger injectors.

The people that really benefit from this is the ones with n/a turbo conversion, as the stock ignition is not designed for FI. And of course people running bigger turbos and/or higher boost.
 
Agreed. Lou says the noisiest part of the electrical system, in terms of interference, is the coil packs. He speculates that the spring stretch may possibly affect the interference pattern(s). As wacky as that sounds, nothing else makes sense with our setups...



I helped install one on an MS6. Took about 30 minutes. Easy. I want a before and after dyno or description of elimination of reproducible fuel cut before I would buy. This "helped" at high rpms just doesn't do it for me.

u seem to dyno alot, anychance of borrowing it from ure ms6 friend. If its plug and play, how hard can it be? Then again i dont know if u stretched ure springs yet. Btw if u have some time try this. Undo ure cpe cold cut solution and stretch ure springs....i bet u wont cut. My car has no cut and it was int he 20s since i stretched my springs....another wierd thing to add to list. Ignition and temperatures lol
 
u seem to dyno alot, anychance of borrowing it from ure ms6 friend. If its plug and play, how hard can it be? Then again i dont know if u stretched ure springs yet. Btw if u have some time try this. Undo ure cpe cold cut solution and stretch ure springs....i bet u wont cut. My car has no cut and it was int he 20s since i stretched my springs....another wierd thing to add to list. Ignition and temperatures lol

I got the cut for the first time last night,(pissed) It was in the 20's.
The last couple of weeks it was in really cold in the -20's and no cut. This is weird, you would think that temps that low it would cut like mad. I remember thinking, sweet if it does not cut at -20 it never will. Anyone else have temps this cold and no cut?
 
By taking a step back and looking at this I would have to assume the ONLY thing this would help is those guys with spark blow out. If you have no spark blow out you do not need this. Like any other turbo 'd/super charged/Nitrous' d motor. At some point even with a small .035" gap and colder plugs your forced induction/power adder will cause spark blow out. Then you need a stronger ignition. Until then........I say it's not needed on a stock turbo 'd MS3. I am using past experience with this not any Mazda or MS3 knowledge. But a motor is a motor even if it is DI fueled.
 
I got the cut for the first time last night,(pissed) It was in the 20's.
The last couple of weeks it was in really cold in the -20's and no cut. This is weird, you would think that temps that low it would cut like mad. I remember thinking, sweet if it does not cut at -20 it never will. Anyone else have temps this cold and no cut?

It appears that the "cold cut" glitch in the ECU may not be for all temps below a certain point but for a range of temps if it goes away in really extreme cold. This points more and more towards a programming problem or a flaw in the stock maps.

"cold cut" now I know what I want for lunch...


Edit: Where the hell do you live that it was 20 below?!
 
Am I the only one who is a little scared that Loosh and Dada are in complete agreement on something?
I keep waiting for gravity to fail or something...(boom01)
 
u seem to dyno alot, anychance of borrowing it from ure ms6 friend. If its plug and play, how hard can it be? Then again i dont know if u stretched ure springs yet. Btw if u have some time try this. Undo ure cpe cold cut solution and stretch ure springs....i bet u wont cut. My car has no cut and it was int he 20s since i stretched my springs....another wierd thing to add to list. Ignition and temperatures lol


I did this Monday night but it was not cold enough here for it to cut. I was on travel until today and it will be cold enough tonight. We'll see what happens.
 
It appears that the "cold cut" glitch in the ECU may not be for all temps below a certain point but for a range of temps if it goes away in really extreme cold. This points more and more towards a programming problem or a flaw in the stock maps.

"cold cut" now I know what I want for lunch...


Edit: Where the hell do you live that it was 20 below?!

(canada)

It seems to hold back when it is super cold; In the 20's it pulls harder but cuts.

Am I the only one who is a little scared that Loosh and Dada are in complete agreement on something?
I keep waiting for gravity to fail or something...(boom01)

Wierd stuff.
 
So no one yet knows at what point we need an ignition upgrade? In my experience w/na motors, higher rpms need a faster fully energized spark, higher compression likes one also and of course some stock units are marginal . IMO Looking forward to a dyno run by someone. Hks twin power is an expensive but Quality product, if you really need it.
 

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