hittin fuel cut at stock boost.....anyone else???

silverspeed80

Member
:
2003.5 MSP
being that its gettin cold over here in jersey i have been experiencing fuel cut...my car is stock xept for injen intake...usually happens when car isnt fully warmed up yet at like half throttle maybe...i dont beat on the car if not fully warmed up...is this normal? am i the only one who felt this with stock boost level...some input would help out a lot and maybe save me a trip to the dealer....thanks
 
There is no fuel cut. It is a spark cut. It is due to the colder denser air flowing through your MAF and making your engine think that their isn't enough fuel for all the air. If it were a fuel cut, you'd get detonation, which kills engines.
 
i am experiencing this as well, it happened last night a couple times (coldest its been since ive had the car) it would happen it like half throttle the car would just buck and then go. I didnt know what it was. is there anything i can do besides change the way i drive to remedy this?
 
SpcyOrangeMSP03 said:
i am experiencing this as well, it happened last night a couple times (coldest its been since ive had the car) it would happen it like half throttle the car would just buck and then go. I didnt know what it was. is there anything i can do besides change the way i drive to remedy this?

Does it hit only at a certain RPM or a load on the throttle?
 
I don't hit boost on my car until it's fully warmed up....so far in NJ I haven't had any problems, day or night.

Raising the boost is a completely different story...i literally can NOT run an MBC if it's under 45 degrees.
 
I have a P5T...and have no issues with what your talking about..But from what everyone tells me...DO NOT BOOST WHEN THE CAR HAS NOT FULLY WARMED UP!


Chas
 
one good thing is if this keeps happening, maybe Mazda will be forced to raise the cut point :)..

BTW- I do not know if the MSP is different from every other car in regards to cutting spark and not fuel, however, completely cutting fuel will not caus edetonation or engine damage of any sort- a lean mixture is a mixture with too little fuel to burn cool enough, if there is no fuel at all, it will not burn, therefore not burn anything up :).. Lean is bad, completely cutting fuel is not as bad. Now, if you were at WOT and you shut off your fuel pump, it would have enough time to lean and possibly burn something out, but cutting the injectors is instantaineous. I hope htis makes some kind of sense :).
Joe
 
acidbbg said:
I have a P5T...and have no issues with what your talking about..But from what everyone tells me...DO NOT BOOST WHEN THE CAR HAS NOT FULLY WARMED UP!


Chas

I DO have this problem!
 
it happens here in nc at anything temp wise around 45f @ 8psi and around 30f @ stock boost level. It sux because it pulls real hard because of the cold air then cuts because of the cold air. We just cant win huh? Im going to try the joe p fcd and those copper ngk plugs any other suggestions? anyone using a turboxs fcd? just curious
 
Its the Injen doing its job of feeding cold air to the engine. You may need to take the tube after the MAF off, and run an SRI for the winter.
 
dj JINX said:
it happens here in nc at anything temp wise around 45f @ 8psi and around 30f @ stock boost level. It sux because it pulls real hard because of the cold air then cuts because of the cold air. We just cant win huh? Im going to try the joe p fcd and those copper ngk plugs any other suggestions? anyone using a turboxs fcd? just curious

Do you have a link for the Turbo XS FCD? I was unaware they had one for the MSP. Last I heard, it was only for MAP (speed density) cars. If you show me a link, I can tell you if it will work or not.
Joe
 
Wow im from Long island and its been about 30 degrees here for the last couple of days, and my car feels incredible it pulls like a monster especially from the top of second through the top of fourth. forget about first no matter when i step on it the tires just spin i can shift a 1500 rpm into second and still get my tires to spin! I love the cold!
 
link for turboxs

its on the turboxs website it says it univ.apps but the instructions are alittle strange like may require a second person ????
 
Speedplease said:
Wow im from Long island and its been about 30 degrees here for the last couple of days, and my car feels incredible it pulls like a monster especially from the top of second through the top of fourth. forget about first no matter when i step on it the tires just spin i can shift a 1500 rpm into second and still get my tires to spin! I love the cold!

That is because it is too damn rich- rich cars love the cold weather :).. Turbo cars generally love it anyway, but poorly tuned, excessively rich turbo cars love it more :).. Thank you Mazda!!!
Joe
 
Re: link for turboxs

dj JINX said:
its on the turboxs website it says it univ.apps but the instructions are alittle strange like may require a second person ????

OK, I was thinking of something else. That looks like a nice unit. I would call them and ask if it will work on the MSP. I know the HKS unit won't (from several shops that have tried it). It is nice to be able to turn the cut on or off with it, just a bit pricey..
Joe
 
true cost is a factor. so does your fcd get rid of cut completly? to resetable? ie higer lever say 15 psi
 
dj JINX said:
true cost is a factor. so does your fcd get rid of cut completly? to resetable? ie higer lever say 15 psi

It moves it to a point where you won't have to worry about it in a typical MSP :).. I have hit it at 18-20 psi when I had my car, but it was also in the 70's then. It may be down around 14-15 in the cooler weather. It is not adjustable. Any higher and it will throw a CEL, any lower and the "higher boost" guys won't be able to use it..
Joe
 
cool that sounds like what i want 10 psi in winter and 12 to 15 in summer im not sure yet. Santas got an injen with my name on it and a grounding kit with a dp hopefully too.....hey jumping subject what about this fuel....PERFORMANCE UNLEADED
Performance unleaded is well suited for high performance, street legal cars. It meets ASTM D-439 standards and does not contain any metal compounds. Performance unleaded will not harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. Performance Unleaded will typically allow turbo engines to raise the boost from the stock 8-10 lbs. to 20-25 lbs. Works well on the latest generation of electronically controlled turbo engines.

Color: Light Yellow
Unleaded
Octane: R+M/2 = 100
Oxygen Content: 2.52%
Specific Gravity: .795 at 60 f
 
Hmm, like BoostIsGood said, it must be the Injen because I'm running TOTALLY stock and haven't hit the cut yet -- this is in quite a bit of below freezing driving already. Once it gets in the single digits F I'll play around with it to see if I can get it to cut -- I'd say if it cuts when it's all stock, Mazda should have to fix it. (even though we know they wouldn't).
 
Warming

acidbbg said:
I have a P5T...and have no issues with what your talking about..But from what everyone tells me...DO NOT BOOST WHEN THE CAR HAS NOT FULLY WARMED UP!


Chas

I totally agree,
I always let the o2 sensors warm up before touching the throttle. Once the Apex-i TT starts reading a A/F then I start off. Never hammer your car. It dosn't make sense to super heat all the components all of a sudden. Cracked manifolds, oil starvation, warped/scored piston rings...

Later. Thread Jacked Sorry,
 
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