HiBoost Questions

[C-Rolla]

Well, I just got off the phone from a guy at HiBoost. I have been looking for a turbo kit for a p5, before I buy one. I WILL NOT have a N/A car, and after talking with him, found out some usefull info.

1. The turbo is a VF22. The same turbo used on Impreza WRX's. I'd imagine any upgrade turbo would would bolt right up. This leaves LOTS of options.

2. The Manifold is just a cast manifold. The only thing I dont care for, is that the #4 runner is much longer then the other 3. Id like to get my hands on one of these manifolds, so that I could maybe redesign it, or modify it to my needs.

3. The "ECU" is just a Haltech. Im assuming thats its an E6K or equivilent.

4. The oil/coolant supply lines are just standard A/N fittings on braided ss lines. Easy enough.

5. And Judging by the IC pic, its cheap, and simply designed. Anyone with a tigwelder, sheet aluminum, a good core *Read: Spearco* could make this, and save a LOT on cost.

6. The intercooler piping is just 2.5" Exhaust pipe, mandrel bent, and polished with BLING blue couplers.

They are asking somewhere near 4 Grand for this kit. I know with MY Cost, I could do it for somewhere around 2200-2500$.

The only thing I really need, is a Manifold. Id much prefer a cast manifold as opposed to a tubular header design. I dont like regular maintenance.

A few more questions...

1. Has anyone used one of these Hi-Boost Kits? Did you like them?

2. How does the Haltech work with the p5? Is it tuner friendly?

3. Has anyone got these on a dyno? Any numbers? A/F Ratios?

4. How does the factory computer in the p5 Control timing? Will the ECU be able to read boost, and pull/advance timing accordingly?

5. Whats the best suggestion for a clutch for one of these cars? Im used to ACT Clutches, but different cars require different things.

Anyway, anyone that has any input, or questions, please reply and let me know. Im very interested in this, and as soon as my GST is gone, I plan on following this route.


Thanks,

Chris

 

[Darin]

The only thing I dont care for, is that the #4 runner is much longer then the other 3. Id like to get my hands on one of these manifolds

What is your issue with a solid, hard to break manifold? You'd see NO difference in performance by spending LOTS of money on an equal-length tubular manifold....unless you are looking for that last tiny HP. (shrug)

The cast log-type will give YEARS and YEARS of life.

The only thing I really need, is a Manifold. Id much prefer a cast manifold as opposed to a tubular header design. I dont like regular maintenance.

What does maint. have to do w/ the manifold type?

 

[C-Rolla]

I appreciate cast manifolds...In fact Id prefer one. But Id like one with close to equal length runners. And Tubular headers require a lot of maintenence. Constant rewelding...You will be hard pressed to find one that wont break.

 

[b_real45]

The "ECU" is a piggy back Haltech fuel controller. It only does fuel.. called the F10 I believe.

I dont think you should worry too much about having equal length manifold.. unless you're thinking of turning this into a track car. Then maybe going through the trouble will be worth it. There are many turbokits for other cars (Drag for Hondas) that dont use equal runners and they make great power.

If I were to get this kit, I'd take my time to port the manifold and the exhaust side of the turbo before installing it. One guy on this forum (deckedoutmp5 or something) has HiBoost kit installed and loves it. He's running an Auto tranny.

 

[deckedoutmp5]

Well, I just got off the phone from a guy at HiBoost. I have been looking for a turbo kit for a p5, before I buy one. I WILL NOT have a N/A car, and after talking with him, found out some usefull info.

1. The turbo is a VF22. The same turbo used on Impreza WRX's. I'd imagine any upgrade turbo would would bolt right up. This leaves LOTS of options.

These turbos are very nice its an ihi (which are way more expensive then the old t3 technology turbos) its a rhf5hb compresor and 20 turbine. its like a 60 trim from a turbonetics.

2. The Manifold is just a cast manifold. The only thing I dont care for, is that the #4 runner is much longer then the other 3. Id like to get my hands on one of these manifolds, so that I could maybe redesign it, or modify it to my needs.

the manifold is awesome, the insides are well desined it meets the turbo inlet like you wouldnt believe and it has heat cuts and is very durable and is very nice. even has places on the header to mount egts. and mine wont crack like everyone elses.

3. The "ECU" is just a Haltech. Im assuming thats its an E6K or equivilent.

the ecu is a f10 and its ok and very easy to program. a monkey running DOS can do it. but yes i am goin to be getting a E6K soon for my ignition control also.

4. The oil/coolant supply lines are just standard A/N fittings on braided ss lines. Easy enough.

this is the same as all the kits. (although run it thru a cooler, the line could be about a foot longer but its ok)

5. And Judging by the IC pic, its cheap, and simply designed. Anyone with a tigwelder, sheet aluminum, a good core *Read: Spearco* could make this, and save a LOT on cost.

the IC is not a cheap IC. the welds are awesome and the shape and fitment is awesome. its HD and looks killer. a IC is a IC. its just a core welded with inlets outlets, i laugh when i see expensive ass IC's so they can have the name on it. just rattle can a stencil over it, you cant tell.

6. The intercooler piping is just 2.5" Exhaust pipe, mandrel bent, and polished with BLING blue couplers.

they tested 3 and 2.5 2.5 did better. 3 is over kill on our cars we dont push out that much for it to use 3. you will need a bigger less restrictive exhaust, i about blew mine off with 8 psi. it back fires there is so much pressure. but thats a good thing, im running 2.5 straight pipe, no cat, no res, no muffler. also juan is working on a hi flow cat and a full exhuast system.

They are asking somewhere near 4 Grand for this kit. I know with MY Cost, I could do it for somewhere around 2200-2500$.

the price compared to others and what you get is unreal. yeah go with FMU blow your motor, spend less money get less power, the choice is yours.

The only thing I really need, is a Manifold. Id much prefer a cast manifold as opposed to a tubular header design. I dont like regular maintenance.

i dont understand your maintenance thing? its nothing diff than a normal car if thats what you mean.

A few more questions...

1. Has anyone used one of these Hi-Boost Kits? Did you like them?

coolest looking kit, most power and the best $#%@$% support you will get. and trust me, the BEST no one else could come close to what juan is doin and is goin to do soon.

2. How does the Haltech work with the p5? Is it tuner friendly?

answered above.

3. Has anyone got these on a dyno? Any numbers? A/F Ratios?

i will once its tuned, we run rich. i run rich at 8 psi, our cars just run rich.

4. How does the factory computer in the p5 Control timing? Will the ECU be able to read boost, and pull/advance timing accordingly?

its just a parralell sys. the ecu keeps timing the same. get a e6k if you need to adjust timing for knocks or retard.

5. Whats the best suggestion for a clutch for one of these cars? Im used to ACT Clutches, but different cars require different things.

i use an auto, works great, shifts just as smooth as NA.

Anyway, anyone that has any input, or questions, please reply and let me know. Im very interested in this, and as soon as my GST is gone, I plan on following this route.

i was the first auto p5 with this stuff. i dont BS you want to know somthing ill tell you my opinion. if it sucked id tell you, if its kick ass ill tell you. i do need a ram air hood. its gets hot.



Thanks,

Chris

hope i answerd your shiz. good luck. peace- trav

 

[b_real45]

The Haltech E6K doesn't have Knock sensing retard. You have to manually adjust timing .. the knock sensor will not pull it for you. If you want something like that get a J&S unit.

 

[deckedoutmp5]

The Haltech E6K doesn't have Knock sensing retard. You have to manually adjust timing .. the knock sensor will not pull it for you. If you want something like that get a J&S unit.

if you get your ingnition under control and tune it right you shouldnt need or rely on a the J&S. it is only a safety thing thats there if EVER is should over boost or you realize you got a bad tank of gas.