Help with safely putting MS3 on 4 jack stands

[RockyMtnSpeed3]

Sorry in advance if this is an extra post on the topic. I just want to make sure I'm doing this right since this will be the 1st time I've jacked up my MS3.

Basically, Im gonna paint/decal my calipers w/ a G2 kit later today/tomorrow and want to confirm how to properly lift it w/ a floor jack and put it on 4 jack stands.

So from searching around and putting recommendations together, it sounds like the best/easiest way to get on 4 stands is:

Prep:

• Drive the front wheels up on boards
• Loosen lugs on all 4 wheels

Front:

• Use floor jack at the front cross member (b/t the front wheels towards the driver side) to lift front wheels off the ground
• Put the 2 front stands under the front pinch-weld jack points and gently lower floor jack onto stands

Rear:

• Use floor jack at the rear cross member
• Put the 2 rear stands under the rear pinch-weld jack points and gently lower floor jack onto stands

Remove all wheels and get paintin

Finishing Up:

• Wait 2 hours for paint then put wheels back on, lightly tightening lugs.
• Use floor jack at rear cross member to lift enough to remove rear jack stands from rear pinch-weld points.
• Lower floor jack from rear cross member
• Move floor jack to front cross member. Lift enough to remove front jack stands.
• Lower floor jack from front cross member and tighten lugs to recommended torque.
• Wait overnight for paint to fully cure
• Enjoy and post pics(yes)!

Does that sound right?

I've always only jacked up the front or rear on my other cars so I'm a noob jacking the MS3, particularly on 4 stands. I'm using the G2 paint kit and going w/ people's recommendation to paint all 4 as quickly as possible since the paint cures quite fast.

Also, is it necessary to use a piece of 2x4 on top of the floor jack when lifting from the rear/front cross members? Sounds like other recommend using a piece and Im sure Ive got one somewhere in the garage but will save the search time if its not absolutely necessary.

Again sorry for the addtl thread...just want to be 100% sure I'm doing things right so I don't mess something up or get injured, lol.

Thanks in advance and hope this may help others doing the same in the future (thumb)
RMS3

 

[fasteract]

I have taken 4" x 4" pieces of 2 x 4 and cut slots in them about 1" deep against the grain and reinforced the not slotted side with a piece of sheet metal or plumber's strap...these will fit in the side lift ridge areas and distribute the lifting force so distortion of the metal flange is avoided...I use a floor jack with these "jack pads" directly or will insert them with jack stands.

 

[RockyMtnSpeed3]

Nice, I'll make something similar for use on the weld points to save it from bending the metal.

Appreciate the advice!

I have taken 4" x 4" pieces of 2 x 4 and cut slots in them about 1" deep against the grain and reinforced the not slotted side with a piece of sheet metal or plumber's strap...these will fit in the side lift ridge areas and distribute the lifting force so distortion of the metal flange is avoided...I use a floor jack with these "jack pads" directly or will insert them with jack stands.

 

[khoney]

I put my jackstands inside of the pinch welds both front and back. I turned them sideways so that the high points were front and back, not inside and outside. There's a good bit of surface area to the underbody.

You don't need to drive up on 2x4s (at least I didn't). I was able to slip a 1x4 on top of the hydraulic jack in front to distribute the load on the crossmember, and used a 2x8 on top of the jack in the rear. I might be painting my calipers this weekend too.