Help with eBay CX-5 Fog LEDs (pic)

[Mark12345]

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but the LEDs won't light up.
(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...2&toolid=10001&campid=&icep_item=111028249042)

I hooked up the red wire w/5A and 10A tap to fuse #41 and the ground (black) wire and nothing. I was told that I didn't have to hook up the blue and white wires if I want the LED's to be full bright all the time. I double checked the connections as well. Thanks for your help!

 

[RedBaron]

I think you have the 10A fuse in the wrong position in the tap, but difficult to tell with your photo. It should be in the bottom slot, but that only affects the cluster operation anyway, not the fogs, since you have the tap wire on the 'input' side of the tap.

Have you checked with a meter (or a test lamp) to verify you have 12V across your LED input wires when the ignition is on?

 

[Mark12345]

Fixed! Thanks to TDMan and Red!
When you insert the fuse tap, the bottom slot is for the 10A and the top is for the 5A.
This is in addition to the black unit at the end of the red wire!
They look great! Now I need to update the halogen projectors and fogs (naughty)

 

[RedBaron]

Agggh, I'm a doofus! Apart from the fact that the fuses were positioned incorrectly, I just realised that you have the tap-a-fuse installed the wrong way round (even though I can see it wouldn't fit the other way round). The input to the fuse for the tap wire comes from the leg of the tap-a-fuse on the opposite side to the wire, but you have it set so the wire is on the same side as the input in the fusebox.

As it is, you are actually taking the DRL light power through THREE fuses. First is the existing circuit's 10A fuse in the bottom location of the tap-a-fuse, then the current is doubling back through the new 5A fuse in the top location, and THEN it's going through the (unnecessary) 5A fuse in the black fuseholder that came with the harness.

Now all of that is OK as far as the DRLs go (boy are they well-fused!) but you may be overloading the original 10A since you're running both the DRLs and the original circuit through it. Anyway, if that fuse blows, you'll know why

Rather than draw one myself, I searched for a circuit diagram for the tap-a-fuse to illustrate my description above. I could only find this one with chinese all over it, but hopefully it helps anyway. The right leg is (currently) connected to the INPUT voltage side of the fusebox, while the left leg is connected to the OUTPUT for the original circuit: