Hi guys,
This is my second time posting on here but I am at a standstill. I am getting the P0171 code along with the P0300. I have done a standard tune up (spark plugs, ignition wires, coil packs, cleaned MAF, cleaned intake filter) but still get the errors. I took it to a local shop who basically said everything seems to be fine, but it obviously isn't. I then went to the Mazda dealer in town and they told me that there has been too much done that there system can't get a good reading, so they gave me a free oil change.
Here's the back story to the car. I bought it in 2010, the same way it is now, from a Ford dealership. Car has been running fine the whole life span it was in California and it also made three successful trips from Ohio to California in December 2012 - February 2013. Around September of 2013 is when the issue started. After doing some research recently it looks like the car has the stock BPV and ALSO a BOV, I think. I'm still a bit new to the forced induction world but I am a Mazda lover. (first car was a 1985 GS) There is also a GREDDY electronic boot control valve in the loop of vaccum lines but when I looked for the controller it had been removed as well as the boost gauge. I could really use some help with this one as I now have a garage I can take it to with jack stands, ramps, and all the tools I would need. I have pictures of my engine but I'm not sure if I can post them yet. Some other forums I'm in for PC's don't allow "Noobies" to post pictures without approval.
The symptoms of the car include a rapid fluttering sound when accelerating. Engine will bog completely down to the point of no acceleration, WOT only keeps same speed. When at WOT the engine will kick back in at random, this could take anywhere from 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes. When engine bogs CEL will flash until normal driving resumes. All the research I've done with the help on this forum points to a wastegate Actuator or Diaphragm. I would change the actuator right now but with vacuum lines and BOV/Boost Control Valve being in the mix I would like to know if there is some vacuum line that are routed incorrectly or if the BOV can be remove as well as the GREDDY control valve. I'm not to familiar with the forced induction yet but come from a military background as an aviation mechanic/electronics technician.
Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks.
EDIT: Here are the pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/luckofthelefty/sets/72157641191776774/
This is my second time posting on here but I am at a standstill. I am getting the P0171 code along with the P0300. I have done a standard tune up (spark plugs, ignition wires, coil packs, cleaned MAF, cleaned intake filter) but still get the errors. I took it to a local shop who basically said everything seems to be fine, but it obviously isn't. I then went to the Mazda dealer in town and they told me that there has been too much done that there system can't get a good reading, so they gave me a free oil change.
Here's the back story to the car. I bought it in 2010, the same way it is now, from a Ford dealership. Car has been running fine the whole life span it was in California and it also made three successful trips from Ohio to California in December 2012 - February 2013. Around September of 2013 is when the issue started. After doing some research recently it looks like the car has the stock BPV and ALSO a BOV, I think. I'm still a bit new to the forced induction world but I am a Mazda lover. (first car was a 1985 GS) There is also a GREDDY electronic boot control valve in the loop of vaccum lines but when I looked for the controller it had been removed as well as the boost gauge. I could really use some help with this one as I now have a garage I can take it to with jack stands, ramps, and all the tools I would need. I have pictures of my engine but I'm not sure if I can post them yet. Some other forums I'm in for PC's don't allow "Noobies" to post pictures without approval.
The symptoms of the car include a rapid fluttering sound when accelerating. Engine will bog completely down to the point of no acceleration, WOT only keeps same speed. When at WOT the engine will kick back in at random, this could take anywhere from 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes. When engine bogs CEL will flash until normal driving resumes. All the research I've done with the help on this forum points to a wastegate Actuator or Diaphragm. I would change the actuator right now but with vacuum lines and BOV/Boost Control Valve being in the mix I would like to know if there is some vacuum line that are routed incorrectly or if the BOV can be remove as well as the GREDDY control valve. I'm not to familiar with the forced induction yet but come from a military background as an aviation mechanic/electronics technician.
Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks.
EDIT: Here are the pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/luckofthelefty/sets/72157641191776774/
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