Help!! Need prices of MSP's sold as a whole, operating car!

Help!!

Sad to see but my MSP was totaled out and the insurance company is giving me such a hard time about the value. They're using Protg LX and EX's as "comparable" vehicles (bs) I'm sure others have had this trouble. It would be great if people could post their ads and sale prices for others to show as proof of value. The more detail the better. I am having trouble finding any mazdaspeeds on craigslist even, so this could be a great resource for those that find themselves in this situation.

I just need an idea of the going rate for an MSP in good-great condition (only minor cosmetic issues) with little to no "mods". Feel free to post up whole cars in various conditions since I can use that as a starting point.

Thank you to any that can help!

 

[OThree.5]

They are water cooled, dual ball bearing turbos and they can last a long time, even when abused. Unless it is puking oil into the hot pipe (or if it happens to be what is making the screeching sound) and if it is still making boost I would assume it is working fine.

It is DEFINITELY still making boost.. I can feel that and hear that diverter valve faintly.. It just sounds like something metal (what I imagine could possibly be the turbine scraping the inside of the compressor housing or something)

It almost sounds like a hollow metallic sound.. but it only lasts a moment.. If you stay on it it, the turbo continues to pull.. which is why I am unsure.. I suppose in my head I imagine the turbine would continue to make that noise..

UNLESS centrifugal (gyroscopic) force is smoothing it out... but it seems like that thing would just come apart if it were rubbing..

MAYBE its from the motor mounts allowing too much play and something makes contact while launching? If it were lightly making contact with a driveshaft... now that would explain the sound perfectly..

I know I should be posting this elsewhere, so I will stop hijacking this thread..


I really appreciate you guys and this site.. I will make a donation soon.. I just have to get the bleeding under a little better control from the loan I took / the repairs I need first, and then I'll be back to normal

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I've never seafoamed a car.. but I've seen videos.. it looks scary.. lol

Good advice on the compression test. I knew I was missing something to check..

The only scary part about the deadpan is the white smoke lol. Fallow the direction or a descent how to vid. They recommend putting 1/3 in the gas a third in a vacuum line that feed all cylinders I.e. I use the brake booster vac line. and the rest in the oil, then drive it long enough to let your oil get to temp I do 30 miles and then change the oil.

Now for oil I run Rotella T6 it is a turbo diesel oil and has all the good stuff for the life of the turbo and engine. Think how much punishment a diesel truck goes through. Now I am not interested in anyone telling me I'm wrong I've talked to turbo shops and I have an extension paper that I can post if anyone wants to read it.

For your rattle, my waste gate makes a rattling noise because I don't have and pretension on it hold the flap shut. It would be good to check and see if there is any play in the flap.

Glad you saved the car from someone that didn't car felt the same way also was asking my self what I got in to as I had to fix one thing after another but it's worth it.

P.s. fill your new mounts with polyurethane they will not break on you.

Chris

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

If you start a rescue thread just let us know man.

 

[OThree.5]

If you start a rescue thread just let us know man.

I probably will start a rescue thread to be honest.. I take a lot of pics when I am working anyways.. I do have one more question though, before I do that.. as far as forged internals go.. Its my understanding that you need to get the crankshaft balanced.. at that point it has to go to a machine shop.. can you just throw the K1 rods in there, without changing pistons or the whole machine shop crankshaft balancing? (assuming I have acceptable compression) I mean, I seriously doubt I will have the money to get over maybe 250 hp anyways before the whole thing would need to be rebuilt.

Is this even a valid question, or is it completely laughable? (like the kid that installed a boost gauge on a regular protege and then wondered why he wasn't reading boost.. LMFAO)

I really just want to be able to do a FMIC, and a tubular SS manifold.. and aim for about 10psi, without worrying about throwing a rod..

(oh and also to be venting to atmosphere.. that way the regular protege people will hate me... hahha)

 

[hornsfan10609]

You will have to get the cylinder bores and bearing surfaces machined if you want to install forged internals, you can't just throw new rods and pistons into an old block.

 

[OThree.5]

You will have to get the cylinder bores and bearing surfaces machined if you want to install forged internals, you can't just throw new rods and pistons into an old block.

I don't even wanna do the pistons.

Just the rods.