HELP! Lost Powerlock keyfob!

[evilmonkeyMSP]

bad battery? was it a used remote? might have been bad....

3 X turn key to on (do not start) then off
3 x push the button inside the door
wait for cycle
click lock on the new remote twice
close door and wait for it to cycle through the locks/unlocks

that no workie?

 

[Donas64]

bad battery? was it a used remote? might have been bad....

3 X turn key to on (do not start) then off
3 x push the button inside the door
wait for cycle
click lock on the new remote
close door and wait for it to cycle through the locks/unlocks

that no workie?

when I push button inside the door, am I pushing lock or unlock? am I following a particular sequence?

My car was locking and unlocking the doors to signal that I was programming the lock but the remote never responded.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

the button you're pushin on the door isnt the lock/unluck button. Its the little button that is on the inside of the door jam. its the little button that depresses so the car knows the door is closed.

 

[Donas64]

hmmmmmmmmm.......all this time I thought I should be pushing the lock unlock button. I was not aware of the existence of this little button. I'll have to find it when I try to program it again.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

yep, thats the button you push and just follow the list I put up

 

[Donas64]

yep, thats the button you push and just follow the list I put up

I'll give this a try

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/09-14.PDF

page 14 for the actual instructions for this...but what I posted is the same thing I just reprogrammed one over the weekend.

I also have 1 remote that works on the P5 and the MSP hehe

 

[mx-p5]

yeah, it's a little black dot on the lower side of the door jam by your butt

and, if it doesn't work, check the battery


and, as to your car getting broken into, your car is still programmed to the lost remote, so, the possibility is still someone to get into your car with that lost remote

 

[Donas64]

yeah, it's a little black dot on the lower side of the door jam by your butt

and, if it doesn't work, check the battery


and, as to your car getting broken into, your car is still programmed to the lost remote, so, the possibility is still someone to get into your car with that lost remote

Yeah. I'm a little worried about that, but I have insurance so I guess that gives me some peace of mind. I just won't leave any valuables in it.


So I tried to program it again. I found the button. I had been hitting it all along (by opening and closing door instead of just pushing it)

But I think I figured out my problem. Ebay seller said remote was compatible with protege5 but apparently , it's a Mazda 3 keyfob so it will not work with my car. I'm going to sell locally to a friend and purchase a new remote.

My final question is do I have to worry about the FCC ID or the model number on the back of the remote? I'm looking for model number 41706

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

the remote should look the same as the one you had to begin with. to my knowledge the 3 keyfob looks nothing like the proteges.

 

[Donas64]

the remote should look the same as the one you had to begin with. to my knowledge the 3 keyfob looks nothing like the proteges.

It looks just like this:

 

[mp3-79bronco]

buy this....its the one you need

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-0...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[Donas64]

I saw that. But the fact that its a refurbishsed unit bothered me. Should I be worried?

I was also looking at this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[Donas64]

Also the dealer pulled up a remote that had an FCC ID of KPU-41706, the one I found on ebay is 41704. I'm not sure if the FCC ID's need to match up.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

the one in the ebay link will work

I saw that. But the fact that its a refurbishsed unit bothered me. Should I be worried?

I was also looking at this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-2004-MAZDA-PROTEGE-KEYLESS-ENTRY-REMOTE-W-PROG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem170305766010QQitemZ170305766010QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[Donas64]

the one in the ebay link will work

Thats the one then.

 

[Donas64]

got the new fob & programmed it. Worked great. Except that when I took the keys out of the ignition the final time, noting happened. I expected the car to lock and unlock itself.

But regardless, it seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the help.

 

[turdb0]

I got mine too and worked fine. The panic button blares the horns. But I noticed there's no factory alarm. I had the window rolled down and locked the car. When I reached in with my hand to unlock and open the door, there's no blaring horns. Weird... Thought they would at least have that feature.

 

[Donas64]

nope. No alarm for us. I thought they would have had one too.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

nope. No alarm for us. I thought they would have had one too.

Yes, there is a factory alarm upgrade that is plug & play that adds all 5 door entry coverage, starter kill, shock sensor for glass breakage & an LED. It uses the horn instead of a siren. Scored NIB for 47.00 off ebay awhile back. One of the best things I've done for it. People have complained about it sucking but have had no problems with mine. Uses same key fob. Made by codealarm. I may have pic of the kit with part number on it, lemme check.............

Here ya go