heavy steering effort after alignment

[incitenoob]

Hello,

I had my CX-5 aligned at a place with a Hunter aligning machine, and now the steering effort seems much higher than before. When parked it is especially heavy, and is highest at the end of the turning range. I bought the car slightly used, so I don't know how it was from the factory. Is this normal, or did they screw something up?

Also, they claimed to have changed camber. Is that adjustable via the strut mounts on the CX-5?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best,
D

 

[gova]

It is not right for sure and actually quite worrying. How would you explain that really?

The normal steering is medium light. Nothing heavy about it at any speeds or parked.

 

[deepfriedsushi]

That doesn't seem right at all.

Can you further describe how heavy the steering effort is? Does it feel like there is still some power assistance to turn the wheel? Or is there no assistance at all?

Camber can't really be adjusted much for a macpherson strut suspension. Another thing that could change steering weight would be caster, but I don't think it would have enough adjustment to make a huge difference.

Do you know if they had to plug the alignment machine into the OBDII port of the car?

I heard that new cars sometimes need to connected the alignment machine to the car so it can work in concert with the steering angle sensor. I'm not sure if the CX5 requires that. Makes me wonder if they messed up something with the electric power steering system.

 

[addabox]

I heard that new cars sometimes need to connected the alignment machine to the car so it can work in concert with the steering angle sensor. I'm not sure if the CX5 requires that. Makes me wonder if they messed up something with the electric power steering system.

That would be my guess as well. I could imagine alignment problems being described as "twitchy" or "not tracking well" or just "off", but "heavy" isn't something I'd ever attributed to alignment. Messed up power steering, though, for sure. That goes especially for the OP's description of being hardest from a standing start and at the limits of the turning radius.

 

[incitenoob]

The steering effort isn't extremely hard in absolute terms, but is harder that what I recall from before the alignment, and is substantially more than the 2006 Accord (hydraulic power steering) that I drove before using the CX-5 again.

I had been thinking Caster or some sort of odd toe-in, but the OBDII connection makes sense.

Can anybody confirm about the OBDII port connection being required? Do Hunter alignment machines have that? Thanks again!

 

[incitenoob]

I spoke with the dealer briefly, and they said that the EPS might need to be reset after the alignment. Is there any way to do that myself, or do I need to pay them for that?

 

[MikeM.]

It's possible that the front-end was misaligned when you purchased it (it was used after all). This could cause the steering to be lighter than normal.

The steering of the CX-5 is designed on the sporty side and is not particularly light when properly aligned. I've driven plenty of cars with less road feel and much lighter power steering.

 

[incitenoob]

I took it back to the aligning shop, and they put the car on the machine again. The front toe was out of spec (negative), and completely different from the last printout. Once fixed, it seems more normal. Not sure how the same machine could change it's mind...

However, passenger rear camber is out of spec (slightly positive), and they claimed it cannot be changed. I did bonk a curb once with a rear wheel when going around a dark corner at about 15 mph (that rim contacted curb, with only visible effect being rim scratches). Could that put it out of whack? If so, is there any way to adjust it back? Thanks again.

 

[MikeM.]

I took it back to the aligning shop, and they put the car on the machine again. The front toe was out of spec (negative), and completely different from the last printout. Once fixed, it seems more normal. Not sure how the same machine could change it's mind...

Machines don't change their minds.

Like most machines, it is necessary to have a person who knows how to operate the machine.

 

[fdew]

Machines don't change their minds.

Like most machines, it is necessary to have a person who knows how to operate the machine.

+1 Years ago I became frustrated with what I received instead of a front end alignment. I found a good explanation of what is involved in a front alignment and how caster camber and tow in inter react With this information ans simple tools you can check your cars alignment. The simplest tools are ball of string, tape measure, carpenters square, and a 6 in ruler. More tools make the job easier. The professional machines make it a lot easier and provide good access for changing the alignment. They don't measure more accurately then you can measure.

Checking alignment is much easier then realigning. That requires checking, adjusting checking adjusting ETC until you get it right but I still check it. then I take it to the shop, tell them what I found. I ask them to confirm it, then adjust it, then tell me the new correct aligned numbers. If they baulk, I have found a shop to avoid. In time you will find someone who grins and says "Finally. someone who understands what I do. Come on in."

Story I bought a well used car that I knew should be a great handling car (I already owned the same make and model) The car was a chore to steer It puled crazy to one side. I checked the alignment on one side and found that it was way off. It needed about 4 special shims made for that car. As I started checking the other side I thought where am I going to find those shims? The other side was way off as well. It turned out I needed to remove 4 shims to correct it. A clear case of a good machine that told a poor operator exactly what to do. He did it but confused his right and his left.

 

[Beefy]

Perhaps stupid question..... did you re-check your tire pressure after they had your car?

My dealership has twice checked the tires while they are still warm, meaning they actually let a fair bit of air out compared with what I like.

 

[incitenoob]

The same guy did it both times. I wasn't there to observe the first time, but the second time he seemed to know what he was doing. I am not sure what could have been messed up, as it seems like they put on the wheel reflectors, position the car according to the computer instructions, and follow the on screen instructions/sequence to get a readout.

Tire pressures when measured at the place were a little higher than what I had told at filling (40) and we discussed whether I wanted air let out, as the tires might be warm. Given that it is a slow (much traffic) 2km drive to the place from my house, and that they had it on a lift already for some time, I said that they probably weren't that warm, and it could be lowered to 36.

Does anybody have a solution on the rear camber? Thanks!

 

[MikeM.]

Tire pressures when measured at the place were a little higher than what I had told at filling (40) and we discussed whether I wanted air let out, as the tires might be warm. Given that it is a slow (much traffic) 2km drive to the place from my house, and that they had it on a lift already for some time, I said that they probably weren't that warm, and it could be lowered to 36.

While slow driving causes less heat increase than fast driving (per unit of time), the tires are being warmed more slowly but over a longer period of time. Net result is about the same amount of heat created over 2 km regardless of the speed of driving. While it's true that slow driving allows more time for any heat that was created to dissipate, I see you are in the tropics where the pavement and air can be quite high. The slow drive may have caused more actual heat gain than a faster drive of shorter duration.

 

[V8toilet]

If they increase caster than that would make the steering effort harder especially at low to no speeds. Caster helps the wheels return to center and gives directional stability but too much caster makes the low speed steering effort harder because when you turn the wheels you are also lifting the front of the car.

 

[Skorpio]

I l ooked under my CX-5 and as I suspected like 95% of car based chassis, the caster angle is set from the factory is does not have an adjustment.

 

[madar]

+1 Years ago I became frustrated with what I received instead of a front end alignment. I found a good explanation of what is involved in a front alignment and how caster camber and tow in inter react With this information ans simple tools you can check your cars alignment. The simplest tools are ball of string, tape measure, carpenters square, and a 6 in ruler. More tools make the job easier. The professional machines make it a lot easier and provide good access for changing the alignment. They don't measure more accurately then you can measure.

Checking alignment is much easier then realigning. That requires checking, adjusting checking adjusting ETC until you get it right but I still check it. then I take it to the shop, tell them what I found. I ask them to confirm it, then adjust it, then tell me the new correct aligned numbers. If they baulk, I have found a shop to avoid. In time you will find someone who grins and says "Finally. someone who understands what I do. Come on in."

Story I bought a well used car that I knew should be a great handling car (I already owned the same make and model) The car was a chore to steer It puled crazy to one side. I checked the alignment on one side and found that it was way off. It needed about 4 special shims made for that car. As I started checking the other side I thought where am I going to find those shims? The other side was way off as well. It turned out I needed to remove 4 shims to correct it. A clear case of a good machine that told a poor operator exactly what to do. He did it but confused his right and his left.

Finding a good alignment guy is like finding a good doctor- not too many of them. In my experience a dealer has more often than not never been a good place for a wheel alignment. Brought a Hyundai I owned once to the same dealer for 3 alignment checks in as many months, had different readings each time, some of which didn't make any sense at all.

 

[incitenoob]

Dear all,

Is there any solution on how to get the rear camber back in spec? Can that get thrown out by a sideways curb bonk?

Thanks again!

 

[Skorpio]

Dear all,

Is there any solution on how to get the rear camber back in spec? Can that get thrown out by a sideways curb bonk?

Thanks again!

No solution yet, to my knowledge, without any serious modifications to the control arm, or sub frame. And yes, several alignment problems can occur on a curb bonk. Camber won't be the issue as much as toe wear will be. Also, if your steering wheel is crooked, it's because your thrust angle is off due to the rear not straight with the front. Thrust angle is he angle of the front and rear tires in relation to the centerline of the vehicle.

 

[gova]

I've learned it the hard way, if CX-5 is out of alignment you may forget to get it perfectly dialed in.

The dealer was hopeless in my case, just pure morons and nonsense.

I went to few good tire shops and they stated that my rear out of specs alignment was not possible to fix. After months of frustration and wasted time I just traded it in.

YMMV of course.

 

[incitenoob]

Toe is fine, and the steering wheel is centered. Only passenger rear camber is off, by machine measurement (visually cannot tell). So, there's no adjustment for that? What about camber kits?