Have you ever done something to fix fuel cut and it DIDN'T work?

NathanR

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Pogo Stick
So it's that season again where I FREAKIN HATE MY MSP. It fuel cuts like a mofo and...quite frankly...I've had enough. I've got the corksport full exhaust, an Injen CAI and an ATP Wastegate actuator (an OEM replacement was cost prohibitive).

So the point of this thread:
What have you folks done to your MSP's in the name of solving the fuel cut issue and your solution DIDN'T work?
 
A split second afc would be the best. Or get the fuel cut defender.
 
You shouldnt be hitting fuel cut with those mods. how much boost are you running? Also are you sure your hitting fuel cut and its not some other issue?
 
i'm running into the same problem.i'm looking at 2 msp's
one has just a catback and hist boost/fuel cut in 3rd
the other hits boost/fuel cut in 3rd but it has upgraded sidemount, dp, catback, forge BPV and a manual boost controller set to 10psi

I'm not trying to thread jack, just listing whats happening here to see if maybe it can help get answers for the OP and myself

Ninja edit: it is just starting to get colder out so boost spikes are more common to happen due to lower temps from the intake so it spools faster
 
Fuel cut is all in the engine management. It is a voltage limit the maf sensor sees and once the sensor reaches that point, it tells the car to stop delivering fuel as well as retard ignition timing to save the life of the engine. The only way to get rid of it is tune around it or get rid of it all together.
 
Cyclops, it's 100% without a doubt, fuel cut. I'm peaking at around 9.62lbs of boost with those 3 items that I've listed. I've done plenty of research on fuel cut and have seen posts where people are hitting it while still stock (although granted, those are rare)

EM, ofc is my first choice. The Defenser is also a choice I've considered. I'm more interested to see if anyone has tried certain things to solve their issues and the solution didn't work. I'm a glass-is-half-empty kinda guy so I always want to hear about the worst-case scenarios before I get started on something. :)
 
I've done research on this, sometimes i've heard people getting ssafc's and still hitting fuel cuts. You need a really good tuner to help with that.

I've also heard a little about fuel cut defenders, but heard that they're dangerous.

I would try doing some research.
 
now are fuel cuts happening due to boost spikes? now I see people getting them all the time and it always seems its due to the cold weather and the fact that people get upgraded intercoolers. So wouldn't you need to solve the boost spike to fix the fuel cut?
 
I would try to get a wideband and a joep FCD. The wideband is just to make sure everything is going ok.
 
now are fuel cuts happening due to boost spikes? now I see people getting them all the time and it always seems its due to the cold weather and the fact that people get upgraded intercoolers. So wouldn't you need to solve the boost spike to fix the fuel cut?

I'm not getting boost spikes. My boost peaks at 9.62psi, and I can get there in the summer and not get fuel cut. In the colder weather, where the air is denser, I start to hit fuel cut around 7 to 8ish psi. Last year, before I got the ATP actuator, it happened but now it's even worse.

Cyclops, that is a decent route to take, but I have one question. Clearly the wideband is useful as hell, both with the FCD and when running some form of Engine management. But, can the fcd be used in conjunction with the split second afc or will that cause bizarre readings or some other sort of incompatibility?
 
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a fuel cut defender defeats the ECU's protection, I don't believe that is wise unless you know theres not a problem. Yes, there are places where they're good to use, but putting one on a relatively stock, untuned car could be... risky. 9 lbs is a little high for your mods, you didn't mention a boost controller, but the boost should be lower with the ATP. also have you checked for leaks?
 
The atp actually increases boost by about 2psi from what I've read, however it didn't do that in my case. It was about 1.4-1.5psi. It's not adjustable ofc. The OEM actuator was just too cost prohibitive for me @ around $400 so I ended up going with the atp.

The bottom line, obv, is that I need to get this sorted out. Clearly, I'd like to go the less expensive route but unfortunately "less expensive" is not synonymous with "reliable". :(
 
i wouldn't buy the stock replacement anyway, as it is notorious for failing, the ATP is (I suppose arguably) better.

i'd just check and make sure everything is sorted out with the car.. if you haven't done em recently, filters, PCV, plugs, wires, maybe coils, no vac leaks. if you get a wideband in then you could put in a cut defender if you don't wanna dish out for a tuner.

to address that cost issue though, think of it this way.. over maybe 10-15K miles, a tuner will pay for itself in gas. just something to think about.
 
I've done research on this, sometimes i've heard people getting ssafc's and still hitting fuel cuts. You need a really good tuner to help with that.

I've also heard a little about fuel cut defenders, but heard that they're dangerous.

I would try doing some research.

Just because a afc is installed does not mean that fuel cut will automatically go away. You have to determine where in the fuel map the car is hitting fuel cut and make the necessary adjustments to correct it.
 
If you don't plan on surpassiing 9.62 lbs of boost I would get a fcd and call it a day. The factory ECM has more than enough fuel in the map. If you ever plan on going higher or really want the extra 5-10 hp for tuning then get a ssafc. But a fcd is more than enough and it will be fine.
 
5-10? a tune can earn you a lot more than that... especially over what the stock ecu is going to (fail to) do with the mods.
 
Not at that boost level boss. You won't see much more than that trust me I know!

Also to the op idk what all this bad info but no you cannot use a fcd with a ssafc. The ssafc is a fcd.
 
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